[help] improving premade metal run coop thingy

12 feet long is a decent length, I'll have to think about it.

Thank you for the panel suggestions, I'll shop around and see what I can find.

What do you mean by a rebar? Do you have pictures you could show me, or do you mind taking a few when you have time? How do you have the top so water doesn't pool on top?

You use these (shop around for bet price, most likely will be sold where you buy the panels.)




Instead of the these (the ones the panels com with. 2 is one set meant to clamp one side of panel, the next panel with have a set to clamp to the pervious panel).

61jjjHne9nL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


So using these instead of the clamps, you use a 6ft length of rebar and insert it through the hinge pin holes. Essentially you are making a hinge top to bottom. This makes it easy to take the panels apart and move it. I do this for my sister's dogs every time I need to mow the yard I just take apart the panels. Takes ten min vs an hour of trying to weed eat.

61YmQoTg2IL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
61YmQoTg2IL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


You don't need to use rebar. Bolts will work too. I use rebar because I have plenty of it, it helps closed the gap between panels more and there is no need to keep track of nuts for the bolts.


You can stay with the clamps and buy some end braces. Like they are doing in this picture but instead of going with the panel, go across the top corners, from panel to panel. That will beef it up nice. Add some on bottom and that will really beef it up.

Steel rod and metal wire fence.


Water pooling on top and be minimized by simply putting a 2x4 across the length and snugging up the tarp. This will make a pitch in the tarp for water to run off.
 
12 feet long is a decent length, I'll have to think about it.

Thank you for the panel suggestions, I'll shop around and see what I can find.

What do you mean by a rebar? Do you have pictures you could show me, or do you mind taking a few when you have time? How do you have the top so water doesn't pool on top?
OOps forgot to add this image to show how the corner bracing connects.

Extension arm for barbed wire chain link fence accessory supplier
 
You use these (shop around for bet price, most likely will be sold where you buy the panels.)
61jjjHne9nL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
Sorry, been meaning to reply, but haven't been able to figure out how to ask it.

Do you know if it's possible to do similar panels from the chain link fence posts you can buy from a fence supply business?

The panels are nice, but I'm wanting something shorter and the panels can not be cut down to size (thus a waste of money)

I think terminal posts and rails can be cut to length, or am I wrong?
 
Sorry, been meaning to reply, but haven't been able to figure out how to ask it.

Do you know if it's possible to do similar panels from the chain link fence posts you can buy from a fence supply business?

The panels are nice, but I'm wanting something shorter and the panels can not be cut down to size (thus a waste of money)

I think terminal posts and rails can be cut to length, or am I wrong?
They can be cut down to size however I think doing that would be the waste of money.

They do sell smaller panels tho.

As to making them yourself. Yes. Yes you can. Money wise, it may be better or worse. Finding the parts at a good price is key. Also most people and manufacturers don't use post material to make panels. They use what's called Top Rail. It is smaller and lighter.

There are two main differences in tops rails. Thickness and joining.

The thinner rail is used in residential fencing. Lighter weight and the material is more malleable. They need it to be so they can swegg one end. Swegging is when the compress an end so it will fit into the end of another. It can also be dent to make those rounded corners so they don't need any hardware on them.

The thicker rail is used more in commercial settings. Being think it does not bend as easy. It is also a bit heavier. So most people will have buy hardware to make the corners. However, being thicker, it can be welded. Again it will be a bit heavier. Being that you want them smaller I'm sure it won't be an issue for you.

There are more finer points to it all, but those are the main things.

Personally if I had a welder, when I purchased the panels, I would have made my own. The hardware is where a lot of the cost goes. Like all the clamps used to hold the tension bars. You can just weld the bars in place.

1680706969819.png


No need to buy chain link fence corners.
4 Pack Chain Link Gate Corner ELBOW for Chain Link Fence Gate 1-3/8 Inch  Frames 713049945163 | eBay


Welding it is also stronger.

6-ft H x 4-ft W Galvanized Steel Walk-thru Chain Link Fence Gate with Mesh  Size 2-in in the Chain Link Fencing department at Lowes.com


Welding the thinner rail can be welded but it takes more talent and/or a TIG welder
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom