Help me brainstorm this shed conversion!

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by pdxchristine, Dec 18, 2013.

  1. pdxchristine

    pdxchristine Out Of The Brooder

    Mar 17, 2013
    Forest Grove, OR
    We are moving. I currently have an A-frame tractor type coop:
    coop area is 4x4 and run is 6x4.

    New house has much smaller yard BUT it has a "shed" on one of the narrow sideyards. I'd like to section off part of the shed and then attach a run to it.

    This is the wall of the shed that faces the backyard:
    my husband is 6'3" for reference.

    There is no opening on this side. My idea is to put an access door for me and a small door for the girls on this side, add a wall on the inside (maybe ~4 feet in) so the rest of the shed is still useable and accessible from the front, where the gate is. Anything I should beware of since it is right up against the fence and the house siding?
  2. yyz0yyz0

    yyz0yyz0 Chillin' With My Peeps

    May 2, 2012
    Here's some quick thoughts/observations/suggestions:

    consider putting the people door in the new wall inside the remaining shed space, you'll lose shed wall space to it but then you won't have to go through the run to get eggs or access the coop.

    if not putting the people door inside the shed, what about "outside" nest boxes that are accessed from the remaining shed space again to keep from having to walk through the run everyday for eggs.

    Ventilation, it looks like the house wall and fence will make ventilation difficult, if there is a small space between the fence and shed you might be able to cut holes with HW cloth on that side to help.
  3. 4 the Birds

    4 the Birds Chillin' With My Peeps

    Oct 15, 2010
    Westfield, Indiana
    If the fence is your property line then I would think that you will want your access on this side and not from the front yard. The house and fence will restrict vents or windows from those sides and I am not digging the smallish closed in run space. You may consider using the shed and narrow side yard as storage space and put your existing tractor in the back yard or build a permanent roomy coop (that would be my choice). I guess it all depends how much space you are willing to give to your birds in the back yard.
  4. lazy gardener

    lazy gardener Flock Master

    Nov 7, 2012
    I might be concerned about having the shed with chickens in it in such close proximity to the house. It looks like there is a solid wall between the house and the shed? Or is that the fence? You might want to research what might be the outcome if you had an infestation of chicken mites or other parasites in such close proximity to the house. I don't know that this might be a problem, but you certainly want to do your homework. None of us plan on having parasites bother our flocks, but, sooner or later, you may have to deal with this problem.
  5. Hokum Coco

    Hokum Coco Overrun With Chickens

    Dec 6, 2012
    New Brunswick,Canada
    My Coop is a salvaged 4x8 metal shed here are a few tips and a quick look at my set up.
    My floor are planks with a layer of tin for rodent proofing. On top of the tin I have a piece of vinyl flooring cut one foot longer than the length and width of my coop (roughly). Six inches squares are cut out of the 4 corners of the vinyl flooring. This allows the friction fitted flooring to travel up the walls six inches around the perimeter. Shovel out the heavy stuff into a wheel barrow. Pop out the vinyl flooring hose it off pop it back in.
    Easy Peasy!

    I have used all types of litter for coops.

    I have not tried sand (sand gets good reviews on this site).

    Of all the things I tried to date wood pellets have been the best. (I tried wood pellets as a last resort when pine shavings were not available.) They are super absorbent and swell up and eventually turn to saw dust. The droppings just seem to vanish and turn to dust when it comes in contact with wood pellets .

    Replace my litter and clean my coop every October after I harvest my garden.

    Works for me in my deep litter method.

    I do add to pellets from time to time.

    I have anywhere from 10 to 15 birds housed in my 4x8 coop.

    Through the winter months the pellets froze harder than concrete with -40º temperatures. The poop froze before it could be absorbed by the pellets and there was like a crusty layer of poop in certain areas where they collectively took aim (no smell, messy feet or flies @ -40º). Come April things started to look after themselves.

    Nest boxes
    In my nest boxes I fold a feed bag to fit (nest boxes are 1 ft³). When a bag gets soiled; fold a new one; pop out the soiled; pop in the new.

    POOP BOARDS are the "BEST" addition yet. Handles well over ½ of the poop in my set up keeps ammonia smell in check 3½" below roost excellent for catching eggs laid through the night (roost are in cups for easier removal and cleaning). I recently friction fit a piece of vinyl flooring over my poop makes clean up even easier; Pop out; Scrap; Hose; Pop in.

    Winter months even easier flex scrap DONE!

    Easy peasy!.



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