Help with Coop Design

Looks like a pretty good plan...always good to plan ahead!

An apron is far easier to install and functions better for deterring diggers.


I don't know why I didn't think of the apron idea!! Much easier! :p we have super hard claw soil, took forever just setting posts for my raised garden beds. This will be much easier. Thanks!!
 
FYI, I have a similar design with the coop raised about 2; off the ground. I've rairly felt the need to climb under there. The height allows me to roll a wheelbarrow up to the muck-out door and rake bedding right into the barrow for delivery to the compost pile. I think that trade off more than makes up for the very occasional need to reach under. The raised coop also not only extends the useable size of the run but gives the birds a shady spot and a spot out of the rain if the rest of your run doesn't provide it. My coop is 4'X8' I suppose it if it was much larger or if I had a brooder in there, I might want it on the ground where I could walk in more easily, but I have no regrets about putting it 2 feet or so off the ground.
 
Your coop plan are like my coop.
My coop is a 5x10 coop
400

We put the door on the front tho its alot more convenient
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Then this is the back where the nesting boxes are
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Then the coop house has a side door-
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That's the door closed an this it open-
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The floor of the coop is laminate an comes out
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That's te floor on
An this is it out for cleaning-
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I would locate the roost bar along the back opposite of the pop door entry. Then you can move the nest boxes toward the front. This way most all of your poop will be located where the birds won't be walking through it to get into the nest boxes. Add a large access door on the back side to open and clean out the poo piles. The 2x2' grass area will quickly become a dirt area.

 
JPruit, I used 2 X 4 sanded studs for roosts, on edge. They are stronger that way and the chicken poop does not pile up on the roosts as it would if you put the studs flat.. My pullets seem to like the roosts and I don't expect any problems with cold toes since my birds are all cold hardy and have thick fluffy breast feathers to keep their toes covered! If you figure their toes are about 2 1/2" long and if 1" of toe is on the roost there would only be 1 1/2" of toe hanging down, which their feathers will cover.

Also I agree with the benefits of putting the coop up on 2' stilts. Makes it safer from predators and vermin, easy to shovel out into a wheelbarrow, keeps the coop above the snow drifts (you probably don't have that problem down there), and provides great shelter and shade under the coop, along with maximizing the size of your run. It has been sprinkling here for the last few days and my chicks have spent a lot of time under there to keep dry. They haven't wanted to go into the coop during the day. Today I put a 22 lb scratch block under the coop up on a wood block and I know it will stay dry and not mold. The chicks are really enjoying it. You can hit my screen name for a pic of my coop. Run had not been built yet, in that picture.

Have fun!

Doug
 
So I'm in the process of designing our coop and run. I'm still trying to finalize details but I'm not sure what would be best lol. I figured I'd ask some of the veteran coop builders for advice haha! This is what I have drawn out so far. The back side of the coop will set up to the back of my garage and the side away from the nest boxes is next to the privacy fence. I'm thinking of setting the coop up two feet to give extra run space below. I'm going to run a gutter on the back side to route any water away from the run (it doesn't ever rain here in the panhandle, but who knows haha). The grass box is a small raised bed I'm going to put in with wire over it so grass can grow for them to eat but they wont be able to kill is all the way down. I'm not sure where I should put doors on the coop for cleaning, I'm thinking I could just make an entire side open up or maybe build a door on the run side of the coop. I'm only 5'5 so with a 6' run I'll be able to walk right in. Any details I should add, or things to change and what not would be appreciated! :)
We are also building our first coup similar to yours. It get very hot here too. Our coup :eek:nly 1 full wall, sides open from the roof about 1 and half feet down on each side and will be covered with hardware cloth. The front is open completely covered hardware cloth front faces run. Poop door is on floor part of the coup. Our next "coup " will be completely open (hoop cattle panel with "roof " covered with durable plastics. It will be located in the shade. Ventilation. You can't have enough where I live.
 
I too have a raised coop. 4x8 with a 8x8 roof. It is nice to overhang the roof so that water doesn't drip onto you or your nest boxes and also over the run as much as possible. The additional space under the run provides extra shade that my birds love. It also protects my feeder from getting wet. You can visit my profile for pics of my first coop. I am making a second one now that will have a walk-in area as well as a raised portion. Good luck.
We are also building our first coup similar to yours. It get very hot here too. Our coup :eek:nly 1 full wall, sides open from the roof about 1 and half feet down on each side and will be covered with hardware cloth. The front is open completely covered hardware cloth front faces run. Poop door is on floor part of the coup.

Our next "coup " will be completely open (hoop cattle panel with "roof " covered with durable plastics. It will be located in the shade. Ventilation. You can't have enough where I live.

I am curious about your winters. Also from Texas, northeast, I want to plan for plenty of ventilation for the hot humid summers, but I am concerned that too much ventilation will be a problem come winter. We don't get much snow here maybe one or two tracking snows that are gone within four days of falling. But it can be cold and windy. So do you have a plan for dealing with the winter? Please share your thoughts.
 
I too have a raised coop. 4x8 with a 8x8 roof. It is nice to overhang the roof so that water doesn't drip onto you or your nest boxes and also over the run as much as possible. The additional space under the run provides extra shade that my birds love. It also protects my feeder from getting wet. You can visit my profile for pics of my first coop. I am making a second one now that will have a walk-in area as well as a raised portion. Good luck.


I am curious about your winters. Also from Texas, northeast, I want to plan for plenty of ventilation for the hot humid summers, but I am concerned that too much ventilation will be a problem come winter. We don't get much snow here maybe one or two tracking snows that are gone within four days of falling. But it can be cold and windy. So do you have a plan for dealing with the winter? Please share your thoughts.
:lol

Northwest of Austin. Lake Travis.
Summers are very hot. Daily 100's heat index as high as 110.

When I've held the chicks lately they feel very warm so I think even if we get a freeze night we could cover up some coup areas. We read the article on ventilation and I saw some coups (pens) from people in West Va have open air coups and winterize when needed. I really don't think my chickens will be cold they are very capable and are adapted to handle cold.

Heat and humidity is what I am concerned with- not cold for my location.
 

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