Hen Trying to Pass Broken Shell... What DO I DO???????????

Angel16

Songster
10 Years
Feb 19, 2013
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Riding on a horse! :)
She is trying to pass the shell...... it happened about a hour ago. How can i help her???
I hate to see any of my hens in pain, is there something i can do to help? Will she live?
 
I haven't done this before, but after reading posts about it I will try to help. First you need to get a rubber glove and lubricate it--something like KY is best, but use mineral or other oil if needed. If you don't have a glove, just use your naked hand. Insert a lubed finger into the vent, and gently try to remove any shell parts or remnants of the egg. Be careful since the shell can cut the cloaca. Many times these eggs are soft shelled. If you get it all out you might try mixing some white vinegar 1 part to 4 parts water, and syringing it into her vent to clean out the contents of the egg. Try using 5-10 ml to do this. I hope this helps and good luck.
 
An epsom salt hot bath might help clean up her bottom and help her pass any egg remnants, and a crushed Tums or calcium tablet can be given. Crushed egg shells are good also. Calcium deficiency is thought to cause egg binding. Be sure and dry her thoroughly with a towel and blow dryer. Keep her inside over night.
 
This happened to me too, last month, so I appreciate how worried you are. I put olive oil on my finger, after trimming my nail back so I didn't hurt her, then gently put my finger into her vent and pulled out what I could. I din't try the bath or syringe suggestions, but I did give her a does that day and the next of antibiotics. Brand names will vary depending on where you are, here in Australia I used Triple C.

She has recovered well and since laid normal eggs. This RIR is prone to thin or no-shelled eggs. I have shell grit available for them 24/7 but she just doesn't eat enough of it. I add to their breakfast wet mash about 1 tablespoon of shell grit (for 4 hens) or, sometimes, liquid calcium, called Calcivet here. I also give them greens every day - spinach, kale, broccoli etc are good. My RIR hen is only 1.5 years old, but she laid every single day for a year and I think her metabolism just isn't up to it. I wish I could persuade her to take a break for a while!

Best of luck
 
Thank you For your fast replays!!!!
It's been very cold here, -26 C I give all my hens crushed calcium tablets as well, It works quite well as my hens don't like eating enough to keep there shells hard. I guess she didn't eat enough of my mash.... the shell seems to have scraped her insides as she was/is trying to pass it, should i keep her inside in a warm dark place this week? To stop her laying and let it heal?
 
Did you try to get the shell out? It probably is a good idea to limit her laying. You can decrease her food (but not water), and keep her cage covered or in a dark room for 16 hours a day. She won't stop laying right away, but should stop in a couple of days. Here are a couple of links that you might like:
http://www.avianweb.com/eggbinding.html
http://luckyhensrescuenorthwest.weebly.com/egg-bound-henegg-peritonitis-help-sheet.html
I brought her in last night and put her in a dark crate ( one of our dog crates) , She has food ( i wasn't sure if i gave her her normal 17% protein feed she might start laying even though she is in the dark?? I have given her ground oats, I grind them my self) and water as well as some greens. Last night i put some olive oil on my finger and felt to see if any egg shell was still in her, i couldn't feel any. Every time she tries to poop her prolapse comes out and she screams, ( i can see that as the egg shell was coming out it scraped off some of the skin, poor girl. ) . Also i can see that her vent, prolapse, and bottom are swollen. I'm giving her stuff to prevent infection and help with healing. That's all I've been doing. Is there something else i can do to help her?
 
(low blood calcium) all muscles of the body become weak and contract poorly. The uterus cannot contract enough to deliver the egg, the cloacal sphincter muscles may be too weak to hold close and the general body muscles may not be burning energy to keep the bird warm - hence they go into shock. Therefore any bird with a cloacal prolapse should be kept warm and given calcium in some form to hopefully increase cloacal muscle tone. I favour crop dosing with liquid calcium as well as in water calcium sources in these cases. Of course cuttlefish never goes astray.

Cloacal prolapse is also contributed to by uterine or cloacal infection that makes the area irritated and causes straining, resulting in expulsion of the cloaca. Therefore, it is standard to give these birds antibiotics in case of infection. If a prolapse is exposed to the air for any length of time, infection is almost certain to develop, and with time the tissue dries out which causes further irritation and more straining -end result bigger prolapse.
Potty training is another contributing factor. Training birds to "hold it in" and poop on command puts pressure on the internal organs as the droppings build up inside. It is a dangerous practice.

Lubricating and gently replacing the prolapsed tissue is important, but be careful what you use. Water soluble lubricants designed for people are good. Sometimes mild antiseptics are indicated, but be careful not to cause further tissue damage.

In many cases, the prolapse will not resolve and treatment becomes Veterinary in nature with surgery the only option. A purse string suture may be placed around the vent under general anesthesia to keep things inside. But this also often fails. If the bird is a pet, the best option is desexing to remove the swollen uterus and if necessary a procedure called cloacapexy to stitch the cloaca back inside the body. These procedures are quite successful but obviously prevent the bird from further breeding. I have never performed these procedures on birds smaller than a Cockatiel, obviously the stress and length of surgery have to be considered when dealing with a finch.


If the tissue looks healthy, that is important, if it looks dried and dying, things are probably too late. Mineral oil is not a good idea, either in this situation or in egg binding. It is part of the common misconception that egg binding, or straining equals constipation. There is no physical obstruction in either case, so mineral oil will only cause diarrhea at best. At worse it can cause a GI tract upset that can make the bird even more unwell. I have always been amazed at the number of people who think oral oil will lubricate the reproductive tract. (not a personal criticism of you, but an observation of aviculturists writing bird books).
If an egg is in the lower reproductive tract or cloaca for any length of time, the uterus and cloaca can dry out and require lubrication, but it must be applied in a retrograde fashion up the cloaca. When I was referring to human water soluble lubricants, I was not meaning for hemorrhoids, but for reproduction - that is K-Y jelly or similar, not oil based lubricants ;)
Hemorrhoids is a different problem totally to what the bird is suffering. In the human case there are badly swollen blood vessels that need to be constricted - hence the phenylephrine in it. In the case of the bird, there may be some small vascular swelling that could benefit from constriction, however the risk is the bird may absorb large quantities of the phenylephrine and this could have a systemic effect (whole bird).

So no, I would not normally recommend this type of ointment.
The calcium solution I use is called Calcium Sandoz. I would give a Zebra 0.1ml orally with a crop needle if it was eggbound or prolapsed. I might repeat this if I felt it was necessary, sometimes 3-4 times daily. I often also use it in water at the rate of 10ml/liter. It needs to be made fresh at least daily. It has the added benefit of being high in sugars, making it palatable and being useful for a bird in shock/stress, however it will grow bacteria in the water supply so this must be considered.

I would normally always use antibiotics in these cases, as I explained infection is sometimes the causative factor. However pet shop type antibiotics should never be used in any situation as they have little effect on pathogens (disease causing bacteria). This is the reason why they are available without prescription - they are useless. The choice of antibiotic and dose rate is obviously the decision of the Veterinarian treating the case.
For the aviculturists faced with a prolapsed cloaca, you must stop short of the antibiotics, relying only on the calcium, cloacal replacement and supportive treatment. If this does not work, then it is a Veterinary matter, or else humane euthanasia.

I think that is helpful to you..

I hope your hen will be okay soon!!
 
Thanks, Her prolapse only comes out if she really tries and strains to poop... at least that's what i have seen happen with her this morning........
 
That is great. :) but I would keep eye on her vent often to prevent, or take care of it as soon as possible when it came out and didn't back in.
 
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