Hen's Eggs Always Quit During Incubation

[k.bee]

I have a 3 year old Easter Egger hen who's eggs either quit during incubation or end up not fertilized.

All of my other hens lay eggs that are successfully hatched. I have seen the rooster breed her numerous times daily.

What could be the cause of this? Anything I can do to try and troubleshoot this? I would love a few chicks from this hen.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

What could be the cause of this? Anything I can do to try and troubleshoot this? I would love a few chicks from this hen.

Hi there, hope you are enjoying BYC!

Sounds like possibly an individual genetic weakness of sorts POSSIBLY causing a nutrient deficit.. That's a whole lot of possibilities since my current information is limited to what's been provided.. BUT, I've got some very good resources to share that should help some.

Hatch failure analysis according to what day they quit starts on page 52 of the following link.. bookmark it for future reference if you're a chicken mathematician like many of us it may be helpful..

Incubation guide

And another resource link that only pertains to hatchability analysis..

Hatchability Problem

If she happens to be lowest in the pecking order or nervous nelly.. maybe stress is causing her eggs a sort of infertility.. Just because they are released doesn't mean they are fully viable. This can be seen in many species.. though I've NOT yet witnessed or read studies about it in avian species that I can recall. Just brain storming here.

What are the other breeds being kept together, the standard feed routine including treats and supplements? Ever need to treat for coccidiosis when young?

First line suggestion.. would be nutrient increase.. this is often but not always about protein and their important amino acids.. On occasion an individual might not be absorbing nutrients or utilizing them exactly the same as their peers. Sometime the questions I asked can help give clear answers.. and there is NO wrong answer.. you are here looking for solutions.. And EE are some of the funnest birds.. so I can certainly understand wanting to hatch some pretty little EE cross chicks!

 

[k.bee]

Hi there, hope you are enjoying BYC!

Sounds like possibly an individual genetic weakness of sorts POSSIBLY causing a nutrient deficit.. That's a whole lot of possibilities since my current information is limited to what's been provided.. BUT, I've got some very good resources to share that should help some.

Hatch failure analysis according to what day they quit starts on page 52 of the following link.. bookmark it for future reference if you're a chicken mathematician like many of us it may be helpful..

Incubation guide

And another resource link that only pertains to hatchability analysis..

Hatchability Problem

If she happens to be lowest in the pecking order or nervous nelly.. maybe stress is causing her eggs a sort of infertility.. Just because they are released doesn't mean they are fully viable. This can be seen in many species.. though I've NOT yet witnessed or read studies about it in avian species that I can recall. Just brain storming here.

What are the other breeds being kept together, the standard feed routine including treats and supplements? Ever need to treat for coccidiosis when young?

First line suggestion.. would be nutrient increase.. this is often but not always about protein and their important amino acids.. On occasion an individual might not be absorbing nutrients or utilizing them exactly the same as their peers. Sometime the questions I asked can help give clear answers.. and there is NO wrong answer.. you are here looking for solutions.. And EE are some of the funnest birds.. so I can certainly understand wanting to hatch some pretty little EE cross chicks!

Thank you for such a thoughtful reply! I love BYC, I have been reading articles and forums for years for both education as well as entertainment.

She is in the middle of the pecking order and one of the friendliest and most social chickens I have (hence wanting some darling chicks from her).

She lives with 5 other Easter Eggers and one Silver Laced Wyandotte. I have 3 coops of birds, all free-range together. The other breeds are Freedom Rangers and Australorps.

Her coop is fed Purina Layena Omega+. They have feed available most of the day and do get occasional kitchen scraps (only those safe for chickens).

I treated my flocks once for coccidia last year (she would have been just over 2 yrs old) when one of her flockmates was sick.

The lack of nutrients is interesting, would you recommend a supplement or different feed? They seem to do very well on the Layena but I am always willing to learn new things.

I appreciate your kindness and help!

 

[alpinewelsummer]

My personal thought, aside from maybe just a bad roll of genetics, is that your roo might be wearing her out if he's getting at her numerous times each day. Some hens are a bit more delicate and can't handle too much 'fun'.

Aside from that, nutrient deficiencies are what I hear as the most common explanation for early quits. She could just have more trouble absorbing things than her flockmates.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

The lack of nutrients is interesting, would you recommend a supplement or different feed? They seem to do very well on the Layena but I am always willing to learn new things.

I'll make a few recommendations and you consider if one makes the more sense than others for YOU.. according to the information as it pertains to your situation..

Eater Eggers are technically a dual purpose type breed as are Australorp, Wyandotte, and rangers.. Most dual purpose breeds will do "best" around 18% protein.. 16% in *most* layer feeds is considered a minimum to keep light bodied breeds like Leghorn in maximum efficient production, not condition per say. Noting it isn't just the protein but also the amino acids they contain.

Most aging birds will molt every fall.. during which time they usually do not lay for a good period, sometimes 3 or 4 months +.

Greater than 3% calcium fed LONG term to bird not in lay, such as those that are molting, broody's, juveniles, roosters, etc *could* (doesn't mean will) cause issues including gout, kidney failure, and sudden death in mature birds and stunted growth & delayed onset of lay in underage birds... MOST likely to happen in birds that are genetically predisposed somehow.

Since learning both those things I switched to 20% protein Purina Flock Raiser with oyster shell free choice on the side for active layers. Since making the switch and the birds having more nutrients on board full time.. the older ones have less harsh molts, not losing their personality like before, and even returning to lay sooner.. PLUS according top my research 22% protein was shown to have the highest hatch rates.. which to ME also says more nutrients (vitamins, minerals, etc) going into the eggs my family consumes.. though I have not concerned myself with the omega content.. and higher protein feed won't change the energy profile of the eggs.. they are still 34% protein and 64% fat, by energy aka calorie count.. with half the protein being found inside the yolk. Growing in feathers are made from 90% protein AND its' amino acids but have only 2% digestible protein when consumed in their natural form. Are you entertained yet, lol.

So, like the other poster mentioned, sometimes it IS an individual absorption issue. I discovered this with my Silkies.. according to hatch analysis.. and despite that I'm a treat miser and use high quality feed. She was plenty healthy and laying fine, but quitter eggs when hatching.

Supplements I would consider, I have 3 top choices in no specific order. No supplement should be given more than 10 days in a row. I THINK I would administer supplement at least 7 days before starting to collect eggs for hatching.. maybe even a couple rounds off and on or SOMETHING to that effect.. I know FARAD has egg residue facts for certain drugs but I've not YET looked into or seen vitamin, mineral, etc residue time studies.. so if you do happen to see any please tag me!

Poultry Nutri Drench is a good quick pick up for shipped chicks, failing birds, or during times of added stress like pox, moves, after a predator attack, etc. Mixes easily and well with water. I have it on hand and swear by it.. IF a quick boost CAN help the bird rally at all. PND has amino acids that other vitamin and electrolyte mixes don't contain.. seems like it *MIGHT* not have thiamine (B vitamins, but please verify as sometimes TOO much information is swimming around inside my simple mind).

Rooster Booster (brand) Poultry Cell (product) does not mix well in water but mixes well in moist feed/mash like a treat.. just look at that set of nutrients it includes! This is the real deal. I also have it on hand. I think it MIGHT be geared more toward mature birds than chicks. This is also good for times of stress like molt as well as the others mentioned previously.

Rooster Booster (brand) Poultry Booster (product). I actually hadn't seen this one nor have I used it yet and don;t have it on hand.. Seems like not enough control in administration for ME.. though I MIGHT consider mixing it with the feed and wetting into a mash before feeding out.. When another poster was using it and I looked it up.. SEEMS like a fair amount of nutrients that could otherwise be beneficial.. I dislike VERY much that I can't find guaranteed analysis for their products on rooster booster site.. usually TSC or Amazon are where they're most easily viewed.

So these are just ideas that may or may not help.. and really the best I can offer aside from the possibility of just really unfortunate genetic hiccup.. I'm fairly certain that eggs can be in-viable EVEN though they're released and LOOK normal to the naked eye, AND reach a certain stage of development. Reproduction is just SO complicated and intricate.. if we think about all the women visiting fertility clinics then it's not so inconceivable that an egg "machine" have a minor glitch.

Quick thought on the delicate thingy.. I has some hens that would give "body checked" eggs all the time. They still hatched. But IF a little time out from a mating sire is desired.. eggs can still be fertilized for about 2 weeks easily and up to 3 weeks without male contact. mating a few times per day doesn't SEEM excessive if she isn't bare backed and bloody combed, etc.. but one things for sure.. all birds are individuals indeed, so it's wise to consider as many possibilities as you come across.

So my final thought is that I MIGHT try one or more of the supplements for THIS hatching purpose (not at the same time as some vitamins and mineral can be overdosed) and/or I might consider either switching to the Purina flock raiser with OS on the side or adding in the Flock Raiser 50/50 with your current feed and also with OS still free choice on the side.

Two final notes before I wrap up this LONG blah blah blah..

My question regarding coccidiosis treatment was because very bad cases can cause intestinal necrosis (death to tissue) which could lead to absorption issues. That doesn't appear to be the case here.

Human B complex.. supports ALL things immune system related.. So if you ALREADY have it on hand.. B vitamins cannot be over dose as they are water soluble and any that aren't utilized will be passed. So it's a good option when needed for a boost.. mixed into food is preferred I THINK. Never supplement (B) vitamins when treating coccidiosis using amprol/Corid as it works by blocking thiamine and is therefore counter productive.

There's nothing else that stands out at me.. go about 35% humidity, if you're higher than that now and see how it works out for you.

I'll be hopefully awaiting an update WITH pics your hatching chicks from your special hen! Quote me or tag me.. or I may never see it.