Heritage White Dorking Thread

[Yellow House Farm]

My broody would not settle in a new location. She's back with the flock and only half hearted in her setting. My injured rooster got his stitches out today and should be ready for graduated return to normal activity in a week or so. Of the 22 eggs, only 6 are developing, but if they hatch and survive, it will feel like a small but real step forward toward a viable flock of White Dorking. I'm looking toward 2016 with perhaps irrational optimism.

It's not irrational. After 7 days, if only six are developing, discard the others. Is she on a nest? Try to figure something out that limits her movement in the barnyard, even if it's surrounding the nest she's in with a make-shift pen.

Then successful use of broodies, as whole, depends on isolating them from the flock.

 

[neen]

Thanks for the suggestions. However, she's given up altogether. You've mentioned before using broodies extensively to hatch and brood. Have you had luck moving Dorkings that are broody? Or do you have a setup that allows isolation where they decide to set in the first place?

Mary

 

[mg15]

Miss Dorking is sleepy and does not eat very much, brought her in for a week, but when she is out for some length of the day she gets pale and sleepy, her eyes close and she sleeps. Anyone have these symptoms?
Thanks.

 

[Yellow House Farm]

It could be many things, the best of which is parasites. Isolate her from the flock, and if she shows no improvement, cull her.

 

[neen]

Of the 6 Dorking embryos that made it to day 18, only one hatched. One even zipped completely and died without emerging. The surviving Dorking is extremely weak, and I'm doubtful it will make it. From the same incubation, 8 of 9 mixed-breed chicks hatched successfully and are thriving. Don't know what to think. Very disappointed. I plan to try again next year.

Mary

 

[3riverschick]

Of the 6 Dorking embryos that made it to day 18, only one hatched. One even zipped completely and died without emerging. The surviving Dorking is extremely weak, and I'm doubtful it will make it. From the same incubation, 8 of 9 mixed-breed chicks hatched successfully and are thriving. Don't know what to think. Very disappointed. I plan to try again next year.

Mary

Mary, get some Poultry Nutri-Drench ( TSC 6.99) into that chick. I know it is too weak to help itself. This stuff does not need to be digested. it mainlines directly into the bloodstream and is measureable in the blood in 30 minutes with 99% utilization. http://www.nutridrench.com I use it on all my chicks to get them off to a strong start. Instructions: 1 drop only by mouth. Repeat as needed every 8-10 hours until it is perky. Put 2 ml per gallon in the water for the 1st 2 weeks to get it off to a strong start. My solution looks like very weak tea. If your Tractor Supply Company (TSC) or feed store is out of the Poultry, use the Goat Nutri-Drench ( TSC 9.99) formula with the poultry instructions. I raised 42 Light Sussex on the Goat Nutri-Drench using the poultry instructions with good success. None died, no sickness.
Best,
Karen

 

[neen]

Karen,

Thank you for the suggestion. I'm lucky in that I have an avian veterinarian at my beck and call (husband). We have given some nutritional support and the chick is somewhat stronger today, though far from normal. It's hard to know how much intervention is appropriate if the ultimate goal is vigorous farmstock. We will continue to support hydration and glucose, but she'll need to eat independently soon.

Mary

 

[3riverschick]

Karen,

Thank you for the suggestion. I'm lucky in that I have an avian veterinarian at my beck and call (husband). We have given some nutritional support and the chick is somewhat stronger today, though far from normal. It's hard to know how much intervention is appropriate if the ultimate goal is vigorous farmstock. We will continue to support hydration and glucose, but she'll need to eat independently soon.

Mary

Hi,
Those things still need to be digested. The Nutri-Drench doesn't. Really this is great stuff. 860,000 birds aren't wrong. I know most everyone uses glucose and hydration and it works well. But this Bovidr Labs stuff is a real game changer.
All The best,
Karen

 

[Sydney Acres]

Thanks for the suggestions. However, she's given up altogether. You've mentioned before using broodies extensively to hatch and brood. Have you had luck moving Dorkings that are broody? Or do you have a setup that allows isolation where they decide to set in the first place?

Mary

Yes, I move my broodies every time. My birds free range and refuse to use nestboxes -- they only use natural nests. When they start to brood it isn't safe for them to stay in their outdoor nests, as there are raccoons and opposums on the property. Every night they get moved off their nest into their coop. They brood so strongly they just sit on their roosts overnight, then rush to their nests as soon as they are released from the coop in the morning. If I'm going to allow a bird to brood I let this go on for 2-3 days, leaving 6-10 ceramic eggs in the nest. At around the third night I put a nest inside an appropriate sized box (nothing fancy, just a cardboard box with 3 full sides, one half-height side, and no top, with 2" very soft timothy grass hay on top of 2" aspen shaving -- American Pet Diner brand hay), put some of her original nesting material, her and the ceramic eggs into the box, and move her to a private area in the barn. The broody apartments are about 5'W X 6'L X 6'H, and the wire is covered with 1/2" hardware cloth to keep out rodents. The nestbox is set on the floor in the center of the apartment, with some placed under a table or "tent," and others just in the open, depending on the hen. The apartments are in a dimly lit area of the barn that is away from any commotion or activity. If she sticks the brood for 2-3 days after the move, then I put the stored fertile eggs under her. Once I figured out the appropriate transitions, I haven't had a hen break her brood because of the move. The broody apartments are a safe and comfortable place for her to brood the eggs and raise the chicks

 

[neen]

That's what I do, too. My luck in having the hens stay in the new location is pretty spotty. I've even tried restraining them with a laundry basket or milk crate for 12 or 24 hours after the move and they still won't sit. Sometimes they even go back to their original choice of a nest when I finally give up on them. Guess I need broodier hens! I've certainly had successes, but not consistent enough for the hatching I'd like to do.

Mary