Homemade feed for my hens?? Better than commercial feed? More affordable? I need the truth!

Does grass count as fodder? They have grass in 90% of their run. Also, is that attachment a calculation of this recipe? I just want to clarify.
  • 20 lbs Whole Oats
  • 20 lbs Black Oil Sunflower Seeds
  • 10 lbs Flax Seeds
  • 10 lbs Split Peas
  • 5 lbs Sesame Seeds
  • And they get Black Soldier fly larva as a treat a couple times a week.
yes it is a calculation of the recipe. I use Excel, so it is pretty accurate. give me a second to respond- you are typing faster than I can- LOL. Ill respond.
 
This is something I have been working on:

Homemade Pullets' Starter/Grower Feed Recipe (Corn and Soy-Free)

(Makes approximately 20-25 lbs)

Ingredients:

  1. 10 lbs Whole Oats
    • Still a great base: high in fiber, provides energy, and supports digestive health.
  2. 5 lbs Millet
    • An excellent alternative to corn, providing energy and carbohydrates without the high sugar content. Millet is digestible and also a good source of magnesium and phosphorus.
  3. 3 lbs Pea Protein (or Lentils, Split Peas, or Chickpeas)
    • Instead of soy, you can use pea protein (or split peas, lentils, or chickpeas). These provide plenty of plant-based protein for growth and muscle development.
  4. 3 lbs Black Oil Sunflower Seeds
    • Still a great source of healthy fats, protein, and vitamin E, which support feather health.
  5. 2 lbs Flax Seeds (ground)
    • A great source of omega-3 fatty acids for skin, feather, and overall health.
  6. 1 lb Split Peas (or Lentils, Chickpeas)
    • These offer additional plant-based protein and fiber for growth and digestion.
  7. 1 lb Sesame Seeds
    • A good source of healthy fats, minerals, and protein.
  8. 0.5 lbs Alfalfa Hay (cut into small pieces)
    • Provides fiber and trace nutrients to support digestion.
  9. 0.5 lbs Brewers Yeast
    • Helps with B vitamins for energy metabolism and immune support.

Optional Ingredients (For added enrichment):​

  • 0.5 lb kelp or seaweed meal: Rich in trace minerals like iodine, which supports thyroid function and overall health... Iodine is CRITICAL for egg layers.
  • 0.5 lb dried parsley or dandelion greens: These add vitamins and minerals, especially vitamin A, and can act as a natural tonic to help the kidneys.

Instructions:

  1. Prepare the ingredients:
    • Measure out your ingredients, including the whole oats, millet, pea protein (or lentils, split peas, chickpeas), black oil sunflower seeds, flax seeds, sesame seeds, and split peas. If you prefer, you can grind or crush the flax seeds and sesame seeds for better digestibility.
  2. Combine dry ingredients:
    • In a large mixing container, mix all the dry ingredients thoroughly: oats, millet, pea protein (or lentils, split peas, chickpeas), black oil sunflower seeds, flax seeds, sesame seeds, split peas, and alfalfa hay.
  3. Add brewers yeast:
    • Sprinkle the brewers yeast into the mix and stir well to incorporate.
  4. Optional ingredients:
    • If using kelp or parsley/dandelion greens, mix them in at this point.
  5. Storage:
    • Store the feed in an airtight container in a cool, dry place. It should remain fresh for up to 1–2 weeks.
I also add oodles of fresh fruit and vegetable matter- with grit, that contains calcium and natural soil/rocks. Also: give them some hard-boiled egg ;)
 
Does grass count as fodder? They have grass in 90% of their run. Also, is that attachment a calculation of this recipe? I just want to clarify.
  • 20 lbs Whole Oats
  • 20 lbs Black Oil Sunflower Seeds
  • 10 lbs Flax Seeds
  • 10 lbs Split Peas
  • 5 lbs Sesame Seeds
  • And they get Black Soldier fly larva as a treat a couple times a week.
Fodder is what you grow for them to consume- it provides the 'micronutrients' needed.
Macronutrients are nutrients needed in large amounts that provide energy and support growth and repair. They include carbohydrates, proteins, fats, and water.

Micronutrients are needed in small amounts but are essential for metabolism, immune function, and overall health. They include vitamins and minerals.

Both macronutrients and micronutrients are crucial for proper growth and health, especially in young chickens.

For me? I grow:
  • Amaranth – High protein, good for chickens, but also stolen by wild birds.
  • Millet – Tasty little grains, perfect for chickens and aggressive birds.
  • Sorghum – Grows well in heat, but chickens don’t like waiting for me to harvest it.
  • Moringa – The so-called miracle tree, but too much of it and your chickens might start glowing with health.
  • Sunflower Seeds – Great for shiny feathers. Also great for attracting jealous wild birds.
  • Barley Grass – Super nutritious, but my chickens prefer to trample it first, eat it later.
  • Alfalfa – High in protein, makes chickens act like tiny cows.
  • Buckwheat – Chickens love it. Also makes my garden look suspiciously like a bee sanctuary.
  • Pumpkin– A personal favorite, mostly because I like watching chickens play pumpkin demolition crew.
All of these only get about 7inches tall before being devoured. I also grow a mix I got from a Etsy seller: Delight your girls with this healthy and delicious forage mix. Buckwheat, Forage Peas, Red Clover, Flax, Millet, Alfalfa and Ryegrass. Link HERE (am I allowed to post links?) and THESE.
 
Does this specific recipe look good to you? I found it on Youtube.
  • 20 lbs Whole Oats
  • 20 lbs Black Oil Sunflower Seeds
  • 10 lbs Flax Seeds
  • 10 lbs Split Peas
  • 5 lbs Sesame Seeds
No.

After correcting for water content, its about 16% CP - fine. And in meets the NRC minimum recommends for adult layers for Met, Lys, Thre, Tryp. IN THEORY.

In practice, there is a crazy amount of fiber in that (around 12%) which isn't the benefit to chickens that it is to us human types, and there is an extreme amount of fat in that (around 25%).

If you had to get birds thru a week or two w/o regular feed, sure, its not going to kill them. Its not even the worst "make at home" recipe I've seen. Longer term, I would not recommend. Besides not being remotely cost effective, the beta glucans in the oats, together with the generally high fiber level throughout, will adversely impact nutrient uptake - the feed is of lower value than calculations suggest. High fat, in addition to representing an excess of dietary energy, also promotes rancidity - use it quick. If your flock size is big enough, not an issue. Some of the other seeds, depending on processing (I'm looking at you flax!) may not be effectively used by the birds, either.

I've not looked at all at the Vitamins, my calculator doesn't figure those, but you have essentially no non-phytate (that is, not plant-based) phosphorus. Since the Ca : P balance is critical fora lot of bodily functions (almost everything otherthan eggshell production), even if you are offering free choice calcium, the birds likely aren't getting the Phos they need to make effective use of the Calcium.

Sure, the grounds you are free ranging on *may* mitigate some of those concerns. But without testing, you can't know.

Personally, I'd categorize that as high quality (and high price) scratch.

Since I can get 50# of commercial feed for my birds of known (and superior) nutritional quality for less than the price of the 5# of flax in the above recipe, I'm definitely steering clear.
 
In practice, there is a crazy amount of fiber in that (around 12%) which isn't the benefit to chickens that it is to us human types,
Most of the research that produced the orthodox poultry nutrition values was done on cecectomized birds (birds whose caeca had been surgically removed), and the caeca is where live the beneficial bacteria that metabolize fibre and turn it into valuable nutrients that a normal, un-surgically mutilated, chicken can digest. This results in the caeca of birds that genuinely free range growing much larger and contributing more to their diet than those of birds fed low fibre commercial feed.

So I steer clear of received wisdom on fibre in poultry diets.
 
Most of the research that produced the orthodox poultry nutrition values was done on cecectomized birds (birds whose caeca had been surgically removed), and the caeca is where live the beneficial bacteria that metabolize fibre and turn it into valuable nutrients that a normal, un-surgically mutilated, chicken can digest. This results in the caeca of birds that genuinely free range growing much larger and contributing more to their diet than those of birds fed low fibre commercial feed.

So I steer clear of received wisdom on fibre in poultry diets.
If it wasn't calculating near 15%, and there wasn't a high beta glucan content ingredient, I'd maybe not have mentioned (3x the "recommend"). Of the big three (Protein/Fat/Fiber), its the least important. I don't normally sweat 10% fiber or less.

Particularly as I know mine are getting more in the pasture.
 
No.

After correcting for water content, its about 16% CP - fine. And in meets the NRC minimum recommends for adult layers for Met, Lys, Thre, Tryp. IN THEORY.

In practice, there is a crazy amount of fiber in that (around 12%) which isn't the benefit to chickens that it is to us human types, and there is an extreme amount of fat in that (around 25%).

If you had to get birds thru a week or two w/o regular feed, sure, its not going to kill them. Its not even the worst "make at home" recipe I've seen. Longer term, I would not recommend. Besides not being remotely cost effective, the beta glucans in the oats, together with the generally high fiber level throughout, will adversely impact nutrient uptake - the feed is of lower value than calculations suggest. High fat, in addition to representing an excess of dietary energy, also promotes rancidity - use it quick. If your flock size is big enough, not an issue. Some of the other seeds, depending on processing (I'm looking at you flax!) may not be effectively used by the birds, either.

I've not looked at all at the Vitamins, my calculator doesn't figure those, but you have essentially no non-phytate (that is, not plant-based) phosphorus. Since the Ca : P balance is critical fora lot of bodily functions (almost everything otherthan eggshell production), even if you are offering free choice calcium, the birds likely aren't getting the Phos they need to make effective use of the Calcium.

Sure, the grounds you are free ranging on *may* mitigate some of those concerns. But without testing, you can't know.

Personally, I'd categorize that as high quality (and high price) scratch.

Since I can get 50# of commercial feed for my birds of known (and superior) nutritional quality for less than the price of the 5# of flax in the above recipe, I'm definitely steering clear.
Good to know. What commercial feed would you recommend for a good cost but also good quality? Ideally I would like it to be organic but that isn't a must if it is really expensive.
 
This is something I have been working on:

Homemade Pullets' Starter/Grower Feed Recipe (Corn and Soy-Free)

(Makes approximately 20-25 lbs)

Ingredients:

  1. 10 lbs Whole Oats
    • Still a great base: high in fiber, provides energy, and supports digestive health.
  2. 5 lbs Millet
    • An excellent alternative to corn, providing energy and carbohydrates without the high sugar content. Millet is digestible and also a good source of magnesium and phosphorus.
  3. 3 lbs Pea Protein (or Lentils, Split Peas, or Chickpeas)
    • Instead of soy, you can use pea protein (or split peas, lentils, or chickpeas). These provide plenty of plant-based protein for growth and muscle development.
  4. 3 lbs Black Oil Sunflower Seeds
    • Still a great source of healthy fats, protein, and vitamin E, which support feather health.
  5. 2 lbs Flax Seeds (ground)
    • A great source of omega-3 fatty acids for skin, feather, and overall health.
  6. 1 lb Split Peas (or Lentils, Chickpeas)
    • These offer additional plant-based protein and fiber for growth and digestion.
  7. 1 lb Sesame Seeds
    • A good source of healthy fats, minerals, and protein.
  8. 0.5 lbs Alfalfa Hay (cut into small pieces)
    • Provides fiber and trace nutrients to support digestion.
  9. 0.5 lbs Brewers Yeast
    • Helps with B vitamins for energy metabolism and immune support.

Optional Ingredients (For added enrichment):​

  • 0.5 lb kelp or seaweed meal: Rich in trace minerals like iodine, which supports thyroid function and overall health... Iodine is CRITICAL for egg layers.
  • 0.5 lb dried parsley or dandelion greens: These add vitamins and minerals, especially vitamin A, and can act as a natural tonic to help the kidneys.

Instructions:

  1. Prepare the ingredients:
    • Measure out your ingredients, including the whole oats, millet, pea protein (or lentils, split peas, chickpeas), black oil sunflower seeds, flax seeds, sesame seeds, and split peas. If you prefer, you can grind or crush the flax seeds and sesame seeds for better digestibility.
  2. Combine dry ingredients:
    • In a large mixing container, mix all the dry ingredients thoroughly: oats, millet, pea protein (or lentils, split peas, chickpeas), black oil sunflower seeds, flax seeds, sesame seeds, split peas, and alfalfa hay.
  3. Add brewers yeast:
    • Sprinkle the brewers yeast into the mix and stir well to incorporate.
  4. Optional ingredients:
    • If using kelp or parsley/dandelion greens, mix them in at this point.
  5. Storage:
    • Store the feed in an airtight container in a cool, dry place. It should remain fresh for up to 1–2 weeks.
I also add oodles of fresh fruit and vegetable matter- with grit, that contains calcium and natural soil/rocks. Also: give them some hard-boiled egg ;)
Could I use this for laying hens if I give them calcium?
 
Everything sounds incredibly complicated.

This is very easy recipe:
I mix:
- 3kg race pigeon protein mix (seeds only, no synthetic vitamins added)
- 6kg wheat
- 500g dried split peas (for human consumption) - replaceable with cowpeas
- 200g sunflower seeds
- 200g hemp seeds

- Meat/cottage cheese/wholemilk or wholeyoghurt/fish 3 times a week.

- Free range (wild herbs, wild flowers, wild seeds)

- A pile of grit (construction aggregate, tbh) mixed with oyster shell in a corner of my property, free choice.


This recipe is balanced for free ranging birds, for birds that are confined and have no grass and herbs available, it might need changes.

Storage: this seed mix lasts for as long as the seeds are able to sprout. Which in the right condition can be years. In doubt try sow the seeds, if they germinate then the feed is good.

Funny note: I had a packet of bird seeds that was 10 years old. I just threw it on my lawn for wild birds to eat because it was too old to give to my pets.
It all friggin sprouted. And I ruined my lawn. So the seeds were actually still good and alive.
 
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