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- #21
Ok, here's an update. I got my new wafers and a Brinsea spot check in the mail so I could finally figure out what was going on.
I killed all of the eggs. ALL of them...in both incubators...due to high temps. I didn't trust the thermometers I had and I based my temps on the red-dye thermometer which turned out to be very wrong.
The problem with the Hovabator was not only that the temp was set too high but that the wafers were bad; I've replaced them and the old ones are ridiculously springy. I think the welds failed.
The problem with the Reptipro is different. I had that one set correctly...however it doesn't measure internal temperatures. I'm not sure how it's thermostat works, but all I know is that if I set it at one temp to achieve 100 degrees in an empty incubator, the same setting produces a temp that is 4 degrees higher when it has mass in it (in other words, eggs). My last viable eggs died last week due to this setting flaw.
Given this fact, I'll take a mechanical thermostat any day over whatever governs the Reptipro.
I also will never try to calibrate an empty incubator again. I have a bottle of water in the Hovabator to provide the necessary mass.
With that mass and using the Brinsea spot check, I've found that the Eggometer is actually accurate. Since I had though it was at least 5 degrees off (reading too high), it's pretty obvious to me that I cooked the eggs. I've also found that my Hovabator is now rock steady, holding the temp pretty much exactly between 99 and 101 degrees.
So, to summarize...for a successful hatch:
I have a few eggs of my own set aside, and an aquaintance is gathering some fertile eggs for me, so I should be able to set 2.5 to 3 dozen on Monday as an experiment. They are all mixes but will be perfect for testing out my incubator before purchasing eggs again.
I killed all of the eggs. ALL of them...in both incubators...due to high temps. I didn't trust the thermometers I had and I based my temps on the red-dye thermometer which turned out to be very wrong.
The problem with the Hovabator was not only that the temp was set too high but that the wafers were bad; I've replaced them and the old ones are ridiculously springy. I think the welds failed.
The problem with the Reptipro is different. I had that one set correctly...however it doesn't measure internal temperatures. I'm not sure how it's thermostat works, but all I know is that if I set it at one temp to achieve 100 degrees in an empty incubator, the same setting produces a temp that is 4 degrees higher when it has mass in it (in other words, eggs). My last viable eggs died last week due to this setting flaw.
Given this fact, I'll take a mechanical thermostat any day over whatever governs the Reptipro.
I also will never try to calibrate an empty incubator again. I have a bottle of water in the Hovabator to provide the necessary mass.
With that mass and using the Brinsea spot check, I've found that the Eggometer is actually accurate. Since I had though it was at least 5 degrees off (reading too high), it's pretty obvious to me that I cooked the eggs. I've also found that my Hovabator is now rock steady, holding the temp pretty much exactly between 99 and 101 degrees.
So, to summarize...for a successful hatch:
- If temps are fluctuating, replace the wafers.
- Use a water bottle or other liquid filled container to simulate the mass of the eggs when calibrating temps in the incubator.
- Most important: Get an accurate, trusted, pre-calibrated thermometer.
I have a few eggs of my own set aside, and an aquaintance is gathering some fertile eggs for me, so I should be able to set 2.5 to 3 dozen on Monday as an experiment. They are all mixes but will be perfect for testing out my incubator before purchasing eggs again.
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