HOW BEST TO PACKAGE EGGS FOR SHIPPING DO"S AND DON"TS

sorry you had bad luck with the marans, i have heard its best to dry incubate or incubate them at low humidity, supposedly the dark outer coating makes them lose moisture slower than other eggs.

That has been my experience with Marans. If I add any water or if the humidity is at 30% or higher I have very bad hatch rates from them. At 20-25% hatch rates significantly improve. I now dry hatch everything.
 
personally any kind of egg carton like this is exactly what i avoid at all cost. The eggs should have no solid material near them, if the box suffers an impact these would either break the shells or at the very least exagerate the impact which would do interior damage to the egg. Thanks for your idea, it at least gave an opportunity to express what not to use. Being of rigid plastic it would likely suffocate the eggs not providing enough ventilation. thanks for contributing
I think the only issue is that rigid plastic won't reduce vibrations, whereas air cushions provided by individual bubble wrap do keep vibration downs.
I realize this was talked about several weeks ago, but thought I should post since I had eggs sent to me by a friend's sister in one of these. 6/12 were badly damaged. It was a mix of eggs from her flock and they varied in size from x-large to medium. It was obvious that the shipping box was dropped on a corner in transit as the egg breakage was worst at one corner and lessened as it went to the opposite side of the camping egg carrier. All of the eggs except the smallest were held solidly by the plastic. That little one shifted and was loose in the compartment but was the only one out of the group to hatch. A rooster, of course. Who turned out to be a jerk, of course. So no shipping in hard plastic,they need to be cradled in loving softness to absorb vibrations!
 
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Recently, I received eggs and would have loved to have had a small heat pack or something in them. Some were frozen, and two had cracked. All were well packaged with bubble wrap and packaging and only sent from one state over. Right now only 5 have begun to develop and on the 15 day it looks like only about 3 will be well developed enough to hatch. I put 4 of my own eggs in the hatcher in there as controls. They are developing normally. There has got to be an answer somewhere for the shipping and wrapping problems. I have not read all the thread but lots of it. GJ

Hi All,
A question;
Were the shipping boxes lined with foam board? The best foam to use when shipping during cold weather would be a high density (blue) poly styrene.
During hot weather I would recommend adding a cold pack to keep the shipment on the cool side.

I raise Betta splendens (Betta's) and receive and ship fish year round during the show season, all of my shipping boxes are foam lined using regular one inch white foam like the type found (2 x 4 foot sheets) at big box hardware stores
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.
So my suggestion, when you buy expensive hatching eggs, everyone believes their hatching eggs are worth mega bucks, send the shipper a foam lined box with a cold pack if its hot. If it is cold then I would use high density (blue) poly styrene.
I am able to use my fish shipping boxes for at least one show year then I move the foam to a new box.
It is worth the expense
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Jac
 
I got some great packed eggs from


fowlrus1 on ebay she did them in individual foam cutouts with lots of shreaded newspaper for the silkie eggs and individually wraped bubble wrap, insulated in styrofoam around the inside of the box and stuffed with newspaper
for the goose eggs
They did great! loved both methods!!!!!!!
 
I got some great packed eggs from


fowlrus1 on ebay she did them in individual foam cutouts with lots of shreaded newspaper for the silkie eggs and individually wraped bubble wrap, insulated in styrofoam around the inside of the box and stuffed with newspaper
for the goose eggs
They did great! loved both methods!!!!!!!
have they developed or hatched yet, we would all be curious, thanks
 
Yes, at day 7 all but one silky egg had started (but she sent two extras :) so I am still at +one...
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. at day 4 for the goose eggs 4 were darker than the other 4 ( but I was given a dry air incubator and it did not keep stable temp!!!!!! and that is VERY early for a newbie like me
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) so I had a silky hen go broody that day and moved some of the eggs in the brinsea advanced to under her and made room for 4 of the goose eggs in there... the rest are still in the still air one and I have put a fish tank aerator in it to provide some circulation and check it every hour through the day and twice at night (it does not go more than 3-4 hours at nigh with out being checked... a major PAIN if I might add
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The birnsea advanced is so much WAY better (I had no idea till I go this THING
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.... right now I am have problems with it running low (98 in the bowel of water and 100 for the air, but as soon as I adjust it even a hair it will jump up to 100-101 in the water and 104 in the air.... but it will not be there long as I check and adjust every hour.... sometimes more if I see temp rising too fast.... so I am hoping the average temp will be kinda more stable inside the egg
fl.gif
but if not at least I have a few in the brinsea, I hope I got them in there soon enough!
 
Yes, at day 7 all but one silky egg had started (but she sent two extras :) so I am still at +one...
clap.gif
. at day 4 for the goose eggs 4 were darker than the other 4 ( but I was given a dry air incubator and it did not keep stable temp!!!!!! and that is VERY early for a newbie like me
lol.png
) so I had a silky hen go broody that day and moved some of the eggs in the brinsea advanced to under her and made room for 4 of the goose eggs in there... the rest are still in the still air one and I have put a fish tank aerator in it to provide some circulation and check it every hour through the day and twice at night (it does not go more than 3-4 hours at nigh with out being checked... a major PAIN if I might add
th.gif
The birnsea advanced is so much WAY better (I had no idea till I go this THING
old.gif
.... right now I am have problems with it running low (98 in the bowel of water and 100 for the air, but as soon as I adjust it even a hair it will jump up to 100-101 in the water and 104 in the air.... but it will not be there long as I check and adjust every hour.... sometimes more if I see temp rising too fast.... so I am hoping the average temp will be kinda more stable inside the egg
fl.gif
but if not at least I have a few in the brinsea, I hope I got them in there soon enough!
i hope so, good luck
 
Hey guys...I follow the thread and I just wanted to share this info!
I won a bid on the Crazy 24 hour auction thread for some LF Mottled Cochin.Seller was Chicken Fever.
Here is the packaging...


Awesome Job Chicken Fever! This is my first shipped eggs in the foam cut outs! Aircells weren't too bad, but they were so fresh it was hard to tell. Will have to see what they look like at 7 days.
 
Hey guys...I follow the thread and I just wanted to share this info!
I won a bid on the Crazy 24 hour auction thread for some LF Mottled Cochin.Seller was Chicken Fever.
Here is the packaging...


Awesome Job Chicken Fever! This is my first shipped eggs in the foam cut outs! Aircells weren't too bad, but they were so fresh it was hard to tell. Will have to see what they look like at 7 days.

This type of packaging is great for protecting the outside of the egg, preventing it from banging against hard surfaces, etc. My problem with it is that the way the foam inserts are designed, *usually* the eggs travel horizontally, which can cause as much damage to the inner anatomy of the egg as if they had been damaged from the outside, if not more. Traveling horizontally is one of the worst things for an egg, because there is a farther distance for the liquid to travel as opposed to if they are placed in the box vertically. I have had terrible results from eggs shipped in foam inserts, unless they were sent vertically.

Best of luck with yours, let is know how they turn out.
 

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