How long can a new pecking order take?

sammirae09

Songster
7 Years
Jun 11, 2014
96
68
131
USA
My Coop
My Coop
After a week and a half of introducing my new one year old hens to my 4.5 month old bends through fencing I finally braved the introduction process. I had to put 2 older ones in a small cage to themselves for excessively bullying. One was pulling a beak full of feathers, and the other was also being a bit excessive.

the others can intermingle a bit better just the normal pecking behavior. It def seems the older girls will be atop of the pecking order even though they’re new lol but about how long does it take things to smooth over. They chase away the younger girls from where they want to be which of course is normal for the moment and they’re not being too bad about it (except the 2 bully’s I had to ground lol) I’m hoping things will smooth over this week
 
Usually the younger birds will remain subordinates until they start laying,
then they will make their way into the older birds pecking order.

As far as when things will 'smooth out', there's no telling for sure.
Much depends on space and resource distribution.

You've probably seen this before, but will post again as reminders:
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/
 
Usually the younger birds will remain subordinates until they start laying,
then they will make their way into the older birds pecking order.

As far as when things will 'smooth out', there's no telling for sure.
Much depends on space and resource distribution.

You've probably seen this before, but will post again as reminders:
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/
Lol this time it’s the new chickens that are taking over and keeping the younger ones from being where they want to be. Luckily a few of my younger girls are getting close to laying their combs are getting bigger and redder quickly and they’re starting to make more noises like the older girls
 
this time it’s the new chickens that are taking over and keeping the younger ones from being where they want to be
The integration spiel is not customized to your situation,
but this part of my post is:
Usually the younger birds will remain subordinates until they start laying,
then they will make their way into the older birds pecking order.
 
I think your doing the right thing with removing the dominant birds. It allows time for the new birds to establish themselves in the pecking order and may make the former dominant birds work back to their position. It could get worse or better. Depends totally on the birds.

I have some that are integrated yet they established subgroups within the main group. Just make choices on what to do based on reactions.
 
I think your doing the right thing with removing the dominant birds. It allows time for the new birds to establish themselves in the pecking order and may make the former dominant birds work back to their position. It could get worse or better. Depends totally on the birds.

I have some that are integrated yet they established subgroups within the main group. Just make choices on what to do based on reactions.
The one straight up yanks a mouth full of feathers when she can. The other like grabbed the beak of another girl who was also trying to eat.

I told them they need to figure out their bullying issues or they’ll remain in their own cage during the day everyday till they figure out how to not be a bully lol
 
Sometimes it'll just be what it is and they just have to work it out.
Integration can be one of the most challenging issues to deal with.

Have you tried night integration? Sometimes they notice less when they wake up together.
Another is free range both groups at the same time. Extra room helps.
Couple times I even used chicken glasses as a temporary aid.
 
Sometimes it'll just be what it is and they just have to work it out.
Integration can be one of the most challenging issues to deal with.

Have you tried night integration? Sometimes they notice less when they wake up together.
Another is free range both groups at the same time. Extra room helps.
Couple times I even used chicken glasses as a temporary aid.
What are chicken glasses?

I put them in the coop last night with everyone but then once they were all let out this morning (I had the bullies separated for 2 days) they went right back to it
 
What are chicken glasses?

I put them in the coop last night with everyone but then once they were all let out this morning (I had the bullies separated for 2 days) they went right back to it
Lol they are blockers that fit in their nostrils and block their view straight ahead. Hard to get mad at what you can't see.

I would say as long as they have enough room & you can make some hiding spots to break direct eye contact may help.
A piece of plywood or a couple boards for the newbies to hide behind. An elevated roost in the run. Basically anything that can be a barrier or separation/partition can help
 

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