how should I attach the 1/2" hardware cloth?

[Chook-A-Holic]

I use aluminum strips and put screws about every 4 inches. If I'm feeling a little lazy I just use fender washers and screws.

 

[patandchickens]

elmo wrote:

...it's a very good idea whatever you use to periodically check over your coop, fence, etc. for weak spots.

OR you could just let the raccoons do it for you...

That is pretty much how I feel about using zip ties. Even the black ones, that are more UV-resistant than the white/translucent ones, do NOT last anything like forever, and you cannot detect the weakness very well visually. Whereas a raccoon coming and yanking on it some night is definitely a good way of revealing whatever weakness has developed. Unfortunately.

Chook-a-holic, be aware that putting aluminum against galvanized steel will cause the hardwarecloth (also the aluminum strip, also your screws unless they are stainless steel or some kinds of coated) to corrode/weaken much sooner than it should. If you could use a STEEL strip, that would be much better, also probably cheaper and easier to scrounge. Never have two dissimilar metals directly touching unless it is definitely just a temporary arrangement - good rule to be aware of. Applies to electrical wiring too, e.g. electric fence setup.

Pat​

 

[My6Chicks]

If you can borrow a compressor and a Bostitch staple gun, then you can put in staples any where you want and as many as you want. In fact, it is quite fun. The staples can be 1 inch long and they will be flush with the surface of the wood. These staples can not be pulled out. Here is the stapler we used.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

 

[WoodlandWoman]

We use fender washers and screws, also. Screws are more secure than nails or smooth staples, because they are harder to pull out. Many animals are much stronger than you think and can pull the wire off the frame, it you don't use a good fastener.

For people that have used less secure methods, it never hurts to at least add a few screws in strategic places, for added safety. Or add a batten of wood, attached with screws, over whatever else you used.

 

[LynneP]

This is how we attach it:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=7693-our-second-coop

 

[Lisa202]

Thanks everyone for all your help and advice!!!!!

 

[fireguy56]

Lisa,
Check Home Depot or Lowes for washerheaded screws. It is a phillips head screw with a larger head than a standard screw. Like a flat washer built onto the head. Come is various lengths but fo2 1/2" x1/2' hardware cloth, going into any thickness wood, 3/4" to 1"' will be plenty long enough. Be sure to fasten close to the corner of the 1/2 inch mesh where the wires meet perpendicular to each other for strength. hope that helps. Good luck. By the way, they come in a plastic box of 100 for about 5.00 - 6.00 bucks a box down here.
Erik

 

[sirgknight]

I have used the small u-shaped fence staples for years and they actually work quite well. I would offer a word of caution, though. You say that you will squeeze the staple so that the points are a little more parallel? This, to some extent, may make it a little easier to nail in but when you do this you are weakening the holding capability of the staple. Remember, if the staple goes "straight in" it can be pulled "straight out". The purpose of the staple being spread out a little bit is to give it strength inside the wood and make it much harder to pull back out. It's all in the design. Just a thought.

 

[patandchickens]

Quote:
If the staples are made correctly (and not all are), the bevels of the points will be on the insides (so to speak) so that pounding the staple into the wood spreads the two parts somewhat in opposite directions. This is true even if you've started with them parallel -- although it will be to a lesser extent. So IME well-manufactured fence staples usually drive pretty securely no matter what. (Making it hard, as a previous poster noted, to correct any mistakes you make!)

The difficulty IME is finding ones that are hot-dip galvanized instead of that zinc electroplated cr*p, which lasts about three months before it starts to rust. There may be places where the good ones are easy to find but I have yet to live there

Pat