How to build a run?

Ispahan

In the Brooder
9 Years
Jan 31, 2010
37
0
22
Chicago, IL
Does anyone know of a source, either printed or online, that has *clear* idiot-proof instructions for a how to build a decent-looking run? I would like to build a run to add to a pre-existing henhouse, and it needs to be a permanent, long-lasting structure.

It seems like most information I can find deals with building the henhouse part of a coop with very little emphasis put on construction of the run.

Thanks for any help or ideas,
Corey
 
Do you mean a run with a roof or other top? Or just a plain ol' run?

A plain ol' run is simply a fenced area. Sink some fenceposts (I seriously recommend using pressure-treated 4x4s for at *least* the corner posts, ideally for the in-line posts as well but some people with low predator load get by ok with just T-posts), and stretch and staple up your wire fencing, there ya go
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(You also want some form of digproofing, either burying the fence wire 18" into the ground or putting a 2-3' wide apron of fence wire horizontal on the ground or just under the ground surface)

Did you have specific questions we could maybe help with?

Good luck, ahve fun,

Pat
 
Thanks, Pat! I should have specified that I would like to build a run with a roof or some other kind of wire top. I'd like to prevent my birds from flying as well as provide a little bit of protection from the elements.

Thanks again,
Corey
 
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Try something like this.
Post, wire, fishing net, and rope.

Just make sure that the two post on the end (across from each other) are tallest.
Hope this helps,
Mike
 
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Ok this is easy it just depends on how much money you want to spend on it and how pretty you want it to look you have many options here first what you wanna do is take and measure the area you want for the run (each chicken needs to have 4 sqaure feet so make sure you measure with that in mind, now on to the fencing you could go with chicken wire to chain link if you go with chicken wire you need to figure out how high you wan the roof to be (you want it to be tall enough for you to walk around in) if you choose chain link I would go with chicken wire for the roof much easier to handle over your head and cheaper as for building it with your own plan (Blueprint) it is only limted by your space and money.

As for the protection from the weather they will know to go into the coop if it is to bad but for hot summer/sunny days you can put a canvas or plastic tarp over one end of it that will sheild them if they get to hot.

If your looking for more ideas you can go to you tube and type in chicken coop/run that is what I did and now I Have my own made the way i wanted it to look so good luck to you I hope this helped.
 
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I never saw a particular set of instructions either when I built mine. Like Pat says, set your 4 corner posts and gate posts first. I used 6" creosote poles that I had. If you check around your locale, you might find some power or telephone poles that have been replaced. Lots of times around here they will saw them into really convenient lengths to either leave on site or haul away. Call your power co first to see. I say that because the creosote will far outlast the pr treated when set in ground, whether cement or dirt filled.

Once you get them set, then pull a string between them and mark the ground. Run a rototiller along the mark and loosen the soil/sod just OUTSIDE of the mark all around. Then rake it out of that area to one side. Lay your 12" side strip of welded wire in the space created. Use rocks or bricks to make it stay flat and rake the dirt/sod back on top. Leave the edge next to the mark exposed to tie to bottom of fence. Stretch string again and this time drive in the6 ft T posts on 10 ft centers all around, to a ht of 5 ft tall. Then stretch 6 ft tall 2x4 welded wire around and have help to stretch it so that it will be snug and neat. Do it in 4 pieces, one for each side of pen. Afterwords, place plastic insulators on T-post for fence charger (I ran 4 courses all around mine) You may find it helpful to use porcelain insulators at the 4 corner posts. I did. They are stronger and will take the compression load as the hot wires are stretched. Attach the anti-dig skirting to the bottom of the fence. This is tedious as it needs attaching every 6 " all around. (I poured cement instead, in a narrow trench so that 90% of the cement was OUTSIDE the run. ) Then attach fence to T-posts. Do gate separately. Make a threshold using 4" cinder blocks mortared together and mostly OUTSIDE of the gate to stop diggers. Pick up all of the bricks and do a finish raking and seed all around. Be sure to install the fence charger following the directions provided. I did a Zareba 5-mile charger. If you have bears, mooose, wild hogs, get a 50-mile or 100-mile charger. Use stretch springs in center of each run of hot wire to hold tension of hot wires so they are never sloppy or loose/saggy.

For overhead, set creosote poles or pr tr 4x4 min 8 ft tall in cement on 10 ft centers down the center of run. Connect overhead using 2x6 pr tr and simpson strong-ties down the center at tops of posts. Stretch netting over it all and attach every 6' all around. Voila!
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If solid cover needed, will require more wooden posts and 2x6 framing between each to support it. Depending on spans, may need to be doubled 2x6's and a gable type structure like a carport. Allow for snow load. Do not cover entire run with solid roof. Chooks need sunlight/vit D like we do. Feel free to PM me for more info.

Gerry
 
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OK, now I understand better what you're looking for
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, but let me ask another question, what dimensions are you wanting for this run?

Given that you are in Chicago, and snow load is a very real issue, acceptible construction methods will depend on the size of the span. If the run will not be more than maybe 6'(ish) wide, and if you are going to use something large mesh like HEAVY GAUGE 2x4 welded wire mesh for the top part, you can probably get away with a flat top. So, put a 2x6 (on edge) across the top of your run at 3-4' intervals to act as rafters, then put the mesh on that.

If you want something a bit wider, like up to 12'-14' wide, or want a top that is smaller mesh, I would highly suggest biting the bullet and doing a proper top with a good pitch (slope) to it, as if you were building a roof. Indeed you may decide it makes more sense TO put a roof on some or all of it; plus, if you've built it that way for mesh and then change your mind and want solid roofing later on, it is pretty easy to change over. The way to do this is to get a book out of the library or from Amazon.com, or find plans online, for a pole-construction shed, as deep as you want your run wide. You can make the thing as long as you want by just increasing the number of bays in the pole shed, but the depth (width of run) is what determines rafter and post size and spacing so that's the important thing. Then, uh, build it
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and either put your roofing or your mesh on top of that.

If you want a REALLY big run, like 20x20 or something, you are probably not going to be able to have it covered in the winter. In nonsnowy times of year you can have aviary netting on it, circus-tentpole-style, but that will sag badly in the snow or come down altogether.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 
I used 6 ft T-posts (that's six feet above the flange in the ground) and hung chicken wire to 'em. Then I added hardware cloth to the bottom section, and over the whole thing I hung another layer of that Ten-X plastic "poultry fence" stuff. And then, on top of it all, I flung/attached bird netting. I have a couple of tall, plastic garden posts, stuck in the ground in the middle areas of the run, to hold up the netting so it's kinda like a circus tent, with the center area a bit taller so the netting doesn't hang down across the span of the run. I'm only 5'4" so it's all tall enough for me to walk around under the netting.

The chickens have the "beneath" the A-Frame coop to go to get out of the rain and still be "outside." And *ahem* I also put a small, yard umbrella on a stand (weighted with big, good looking rocks) over the bucket feeder to keep rain off it.

It's pretty "rural" looking.
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But it works for me.
 

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