How to care for "older" chickens

[PastaChickenBoo]

This March marks the third year I've had chickens! They seem to be laying more or less daily, but I understand they'll need to be watched and supervised more as they get older. What are some good ways to ensure my older chickens are comfortable and healthy?

 

[boskelli1571]

I have a bunch of 'old ladies'
I don't really do much that's special for them. You will know their personalities and quirks by now, so keep an eye open for any behavior changes or 'odd' moments.
The laying will start to slow if it hasn't already. What breeds do you have?
Although most of mine still roost up on the 18 inch perch, I do have lower perches if they need them.
I offer them the usual dried feed but also a large bowl of wet mash so they can choose which they want - no, they aren't spoiled!

 

[EggSighted4Life]

What are some good ways to ensure my older chickens are comfortable and healthy?

Using a flock raiser or grower feed (with 18-20% protein) formulated ration with oyster shell on the side free choice... more protein and amino acids in the feed and they take the calcium they need verses "layer" and not being able to avoid calcium during molt and such... especially since all your ladies (in your signature line) are dual purpose breeds. Don't feed treats in excess of 10% total daily intake as diminished nutrition can also diminish immunity. Beyond that I disagree about them needing to be watched or supervised more as they get older. Since making the switch permanently my birds enter molt less harsh than when I used "layer" and return to lay sooner... as they appear to have more nutrient reserves on board to deal with stress the difference in their personality during molt is huge. It also translates into more nutrition inside the eggs.. you are what you eat. If you already do this, then keep it up...

Make sure roosts aren't to high and landing isn't too hard... soften with hay, shavings, etc... to prevent bone and joint jarring and foot or leg injuries.

Check monthly for angry red skin or clumps on feather shafts, below or around the vent (preferably after dark with a flash light as it give the best picture) and treat for parasites IF needed. Doing a group fecal float... multiple fresh samples from multiple birds... can give you an overall look at internal parasite load for your flock to determine IF they need any treatment and ensure the right medication is used to treat the correct parasite,,, IF needed. There are some mail in places that may be cheaper than your local vet. It cost about $28 at my local vet, which is fairly pricey. This avoids giving unneeded poisons, wasting money, time, energy, etc.

This monthly evening check will also give the chance to notice any water belly/ascites, vent gleet.. type symptoms. Any penguin stance or separating from the flock in daytime is cause for alarm. As well as sleeping ion the nest box, if it's out their norm.

Beyond that.. general good husbandry practices like keeping ammonia smell down and plenty of ventilation, a dry place to dust bathe, fresh potable water, dry shelter, and source of grit...

The BIGGEST suggestion.. do NOT bring in birds from someone else's place!!! I cannot stress this one enough. If you add new birds... go with chicks from an NPIP seller or hatchery.

I think my oldest (pet) ladies just turned 3 this year... seems like they are in the prime of their lives! So while 3 is considered older in industry terms, for home keepers, they're just middle age. My breeding stock always gets a couple older birds replaced with a couple younger to constantly improve and also to have eggs during winter. But if you plan ahead and don't have space for new additions... eggs will stay fresh, unwashed in the fridge for MORE than 6 months!

My friend has some 4-5 year old Wyandotte and Orp ladies that sport spurs these days, Pics always welcome.

 

[ChickenCanoe]

3 year old chickens aren't old. I just saw a thread about a 13 year old hen that just died.
She had just quit laying 2 years earlier.
I had a conversation with a poultry nutritionist at Purina and they are considering making a feed for aged chickens due to the rise in backyard chicken pets. I asked how it would differ and he said it would have elevated levels of vitamins and minerals since they don't uptake nutrients as well as younger chickens. I'm sure they are still doing the research to ascertain if it would be helpful.
The other thing I would say is that as they slow their laying is to cut back on their calcium intake. A bird not producing egg shells is not a layer and shouldn't be fed layer feed.
Provide oyster shell on the side and feed a non-layer feed. That way their kidneys won't be overwhelmed as they try to regulate the mineral levels in the blood.

 

[Folly's place]

I have had three hens who lived to ten years of age, and they were valued here. My currently eldest hen recently died at age six, and everyone else is now younger. However, last spring we had a very major predation event, with most of the flock killed, so it changed the group from more older birds, to who we have now.
Diseases strike egg layers often by the age of three or four, sadly, but the lucky ones may do well much longer. Then, predators happen, and that changes the group too.
So, good food, nice living conditions, avoiding predators, and luck all matter.
Very few breeders, large or small, select for longevity. Most birds are one or at most two years of age, not older, when used for reproduction. This does not encourage the genetics that promote long life!
Mary

 

[PastaChickenBoo]

Thanks all for the advice, I'll be sure to relay it along to my mom and look at other types of feed.

 

[ChickenCanoe]

While excessive vitamin consumption can be toxic, the absence of any of those nutrients in the system can cause disease and can only be corrected by inclusion in the diet.