Some of them are screwed together entirely; some will have bolts. Come prepared for either
It would also be smart to pick up, from a WELL STOCKED hardware store, one of the thingamajiggies you use to remove screws after the Phillips hole has gotten rounded out. A hacksaw blade might come in handy in case of an extremely obnoxious stuck screw (take out all other screws involved, pry the joint apart slightly and cut the stuck screw - this sounds much easier than it actually is
) WD-40 is never a bad idea. A pry bar. A power drill with selection of driver bits, preferably cordless, so you don't have to undo everything by hand.
Oh, and a piece of paper for writing down how it went (BEFORE you take it all apart!), and some baggies in case you need to keep certain sets of hardware together.
When you put it back together, you may want to use new screws, not just because the holes of the old ones will be damaged but because (unless they used maximally-long ones before) you can use screws that are slightly longer than the previous ones, which will give you better 'hold'.
If any of the screw holes are really damaged and the new screw does not grab well, take a couple round wooden toothpicks, jam them in the hole and screw into that. (Some would actually glue thm into the hole and let the glue dry first. I'm not that patient myself
)
If any of the wood you're screwing into got damaged, you can often put a new screw elsewhere, into sounder wood, and this is very wise (in fact, where wood is screwed directly to wood with no metal connector plate, it is wisest to have some-to-all of your screws in new spots). If there is a metal connector plate, you can drill yourself a new hole in it with a good drill bit and some patience.
Last tip: when you are putting it back together, be extremely obsessive about getting the base (or four corners, if it is just on cinderblocks) ABSOLUTELY level. Othewise you can get a good ways into the reconstruction and then discover you have a really really aggravating problem
Have fun,
Pat