Humidity in Bator...EXCELLENT INFO HERE! EVERYONE SHOULD READ THIS!

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Well, Buster, thank you for your input! I must say that I find the info quite interesting and will be extremely anxious to find out how many of your eggs hatch. First, I would like to know how many eggs you have in the bator now? Then, I would like to know how many of those eggs hatch! Tell us please, what day are they due to hatch, for we are going to be expecting an update on or around that date!
I agree that you will have deformities if the humidity is to low. The deformities are not due to a low humidity level, but a high temperature. Spraddle leg is not counted as a deformity. It is a result of a chick with a large abdomen. They have absorbed a healthy full yolk and have so full a belly that their little legs spraddle. You can fix it by taking pipe cleaners and tieing the chicks legs in the correct position and leave them for an hour. I have had this happen to chicks hatched under a broody. It is usually the big robust breeds that these chicks will come from. Just a sign of a big healthy chick!
Now back to the deformities and the high temperature that causes it. You see, as the humidity drops, the dry heat rises and will cause the temperature to rise in the bator. If this dry heat in the bator is allowed to remain for a long time (for more than 3 to 4 hours periods or repetitive throughout the incubation) it will cause the deformities in the chicks feet. Let the humidity drop to 20%, leave it for around 2 hours, make sure the temp stays at 99.5 and then add your water to bring the humidity back up and leveled off at around 42%. All the while making sure the temp stays at a consistant 99.5. There must be a consistant temperature to avoid the deformity while maintaining the lower humidity at the same time.
I am not trying to be argumentative, I just feel that your info from the oldtimer is not complete. My question for he and you would be, Are we counting the number of chicks that hatched at a 75% humidity or the number that hatched without deformities? When you say "literally hundreds" in reference to chicks, are we talking 500 hundred eggs set with 200 of them hatching? Who would miss 300 hundred chicks if 200 hatched? I would, for that is 300 hundred that probably drown in their egg before they could make it out!
Please do keep us updated on your hatch at a 75% humidity level, but first tell us the exact number of eggs you have set and then tell us the exact number that hatches later. Again, not being argumentative, we just want to compare your hatch to ours. We will be happy to tell how many deformed chicks we have too!
By the way, for those of you that do experience chicks with mildly deformed feet, this is an easy fix if addressed at hatch! Put these chicks on a mesh wire, This traction will correct their feet within a day. I usually do not have many of these, but there will be some. A chick with this easy addressed problem is better than no chick because it drown in an egg shell!
 
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No problem- this is an experiment for me too. I want to know for sure. The best hatch I had before I upped the humidity was 26% and the quail hatch from when I upped the humidity was 43%. I hatched 30 out of 69 quail eggs. Those hatches were in a Sportsman 500.

The lady I borrowed the Sportsman from said that when she upped the humidity to 70% and had the temp control set at 99.0 she had 90% hatches so I gave it a shot.

I set 23 eggs in my HB 1588. I have been through 2 power outtages. My head rooster isn't breeding many hens in this cold and not letting anyone else either and I ended up with 11 clear eggs when I candled them when I took the turner out. Also, HovaBators say to trust the bator for your first few hatches and then make adjustments in temp. I put the thermometer in and it only reads 95*. I still have 12 eggs in there and they are growing. They are due today but I am guessing it will be a few extra days with the low temp. If I need to adjust it after this hatch I will.

In the Sportsman right now I have 35 eggs due to go down into the hatching area tomorrow. I will candle them and see tomorrow when I move them. The eggs I got from MissPrissy are almost all growing (10 for 12 on shipped eggs) so I am attributing the clear eggs from my own eggs that I set to low fertility or low breeding rate of my rooster. I also have another hatch of chicken eggs in there set at various times because they are "project eggs" and I was setting them as I got them for a while because the hens weren't very consistent. I also have 24 golden quail eggs set right now and 24 silkie eggs due towards the beginning of January.

I have more "project eggs" going in probably the HovaBator as soon as this hatch is finished. I've been collecting them for a few days now.

I will keep you posted with percentages as they hatch and let you know. I could be wrong and if I am I will adjust accordingly. If not, then I've learned another way to do things.

Happy hatching!
 
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I am the person that Buster is referring to. Jared is borrowing my Sportsman 1502. We hatched out hundreds of chicks in this bator. We had the Sportsman set at 99.5 and at 40-50% humidity. We were hatching maybe 2-4 chicks out of 40 eggs. These eggs were not shipped, they were from my own birds and my sisters birds. The chicks that did hatch were sticky and have a very hard time hatching. I was having to help alot of them. Many also had rough navels,(which I know is due to temperature). We then turned the temp down to 99.0 and all rough navels stopped. We raised the humidity to 70 percent to see what would happen. We began hatching over 90% of eggs set from our birds and close to 80% on shipped eggs. If I had my bator here today and was hatching there is no way I would have my humidity anywhere near what most people post their humidity at. I am not saying it's the way to do it. I'm saying it worked for me.
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WOW!! How interesting Buster & Bammony! You two have put a twist on this thread! Now I am really enjoying this thread,as I love to learn and I love a challenge! However, there are a few things that I am just not clear on what you are saying. May I please ask you some questions? Okay?, Thanks!

1. DID YOU CALIBRATE THE HYGROMETER IN THE BATOR RECENTLY AND BACK WHEN YOU WERE HAVING ALL THE TROUBLE?

2. HOW DO YOU KNOW THAT ROUGH NAVELS ARE A RESULT OF TEMPERATURE?
2(a). LOW TEMP OR HIGH TEMP & HOW DID HUMIDITY CONTRIBUTE OR DID IT?

Let me make sure that I am also clear on what Buster has in the bator now and what his temp and humidity is! For the sake of avoiding confusion, I am going to go for the bator that you have borrowed from Bammony . If I have interpreted his post correctly, he has 35 eggs due to go into the hatcher tomorrow, is this correct? If so, what temp and humidity did you incubate them at and what temp and humidity are you going to raise it to for hatch?

Buster Wrote:
"In the Sportsman right now I have 35 eggs due to go down into the hatching area tomorrow. I will candle them and see tomorrow when I move them."

If we are going to compare notes, we have got to be on the same playing field! In my bator 1502, there are 24 eggs due to hatch on January 10th! My hatch method has been established clear in this post for both the first 18 days and the last 3! You are on like donky kong! LOL! Just having fun you all! Someone will learn from this and that is all that will matter! Jamie821 is incubating my eggs for me in my Sportsman 1502 and is using a calibrated hygrometer! Let us know a little more clearer without referring to the rooster shooting blanks or not shooting at all, then we can compare notes! I'll post more later you all have a good evening. Got my last and final Christmas Party to attend! Whew!
 
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The hygrometer I am using is the one on the 1502. I don't know anything about calibrating hygrometers but the thermometer and hygrometer on it are digital on a computerized panel.

For the sake of this experiment, I am not going to include my own eggs that have questionable fertility at the moment. I will use the SHIPPED eggs I got from MissPrissy that were almost all growing when I candled at day 11. That is 12 total, with ten still growing. I do not raise or lower the humidity or temps. The temp is at 99.5 consistently and the humidity is in the mid-70's. Happy hatching!
 
Hi! That's why offering incubating advice is a can-of-worms. What works consistently here, might not work next door or even in a different room in my own house.
When I put a hygrometer / thermometer under a broody hen, I just took random measurements. It was an unusually hot summer heat-wave and I had lots of broody hens here.
I was mostly monitoring / checking temps because it was 105 to 110 degree ambient here (and I was curious). The temp under the hens stayed stable. That was an unusual situation and interesting about a hens 'insulating' abilities.
I wasn't measuring ambient humidity at the time, but it is usually humid here.
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Lisa
 
Hey Buster! Sounds like I am calling you a name, LOL! I hope you do understand that this is a friendly discussion and that I mean no ill will toward you or Bammony. It is an opportunity for all to learn as well as each of us learning something too. I am by no means an expert on hatching! I have been doing it for about 20 years with a bator and longer than that with a broody. In those years, a 70% humidity has always drowned all my chicks in the egg using a bator. This humidity level does not exist under a hen, so there was no loss there! I have had an occassional sticky chick with the method I use now, but realized what was causing it and kept the incubator door closed at hatch time. When I first started hatching with a bator, I frequently opened the door to take chicks out and move them to the brooder. THIS is what caused sticky chicks and dry navels for me and is the only time I have ever had that problem. I again thought about that mother hen and realized that she never took her chicks off the nest until all were done. Thus, I started leaving the chicks in the bator until all were done and never again experienced rough navels or sticky chicks using the method I do now. Could it be that opening the door to help the chicks as Bammony states she did was actually what caused them to become sticky and have rough navels? Opening that door will cause that humidity to drop you know!
In regards to being accurate on hatching, how do you know that Bammony's humidity was actually at 70% if the hygrometer was or is not accurately calibrated, or if she frequently opens the door to assist or move chicks? Is there a slight chance that the humidity could have been off? All hygrometers including computerized ones must be calibrated regularly. You will have to read the hygrometer instructions on how to calibrate the particular one on your bator.
Bammony, just out of curiosity, how long have you been hatching when you discovered this method of hatching that you are now recommending? I am not trying to pick at you, I really am curious to know!
 
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That's good to know Buster! So you do not open the door of the bator period and the humidity stays 70% or greater all the time! Pardon me for saying so, but I cannot wait to see what results we have! I am just sorry that the lives of chicks will be at the hands of our experiment.
Lisa, so what you are telling me is that your study on the hygrometer under the hen cannot be counted because you did not actually do an accurate study? That helps us out to know that we can disregard your notes for comparison on the ones we are doing now. I appreciate you updating us on your experiment! I do not feel that a friendly discussion is "opening a can of worms." If you are going to do something, learn all you can about it and then try it! Chickens like worms! LOL!
 
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I am certainly mulling over alot here. Interesting. There are so many factors here. It's funny, when I have everything good, stable humidity and temp, I don't get a good hatch. I think the best 2 hatches I got was when I got a little lazy about watching the temp and humidity. So the temps varied at times from 99.5 to 102 still air. And the humidity didn't get too high or too low, but it did waver. Go figure.
 
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