I got a horse, now what? update 1-22-11

[verity]

You and the horse will be fine --- the folks who don't ask for info. are the ones who get in trouble.

Got my first horse when I was 40 years old --- had a barn, paddock, and a LIBRARY BOOK!
Looking back, it was not the best way to learn about horses --

but I also sought advice from the 'horse-people' around here and lined up a super equine vet.

Some of my horses were rescues --- all have lived into their late 20s or mid 30s -- The ones who have died are buried in a meadow and have granite grave markers.


I am now 68 years old and still have horses -- all my SS money goes to make sure they live in luxury ---- a person who loves horses will stop at nothing --
They make my life interesting (!?) every single day!

You can do it!

Lucky horse to have you! I am wishing for you and the horse many, many years of Health and Happiness!

 

[Bunnylady]

Hay, Hay!

Y'know, some people should read things before they respond to them!

It sounds like the horse "landed on his feet" when he came to you. It would have been better to have all the prep done ahead of time, of course. Many times, I have been working toward something, and circumstances forced me to move before I was really ready to. As long as the temporary arrangements are just that, very temporary, I have no problem with anything other than the pool. Which cost more, the pool or the horse? If it was the pool, the horse will probably wreck it, and hurt himself in the process. If the horse is the pricier item, then the pool will probably survive the encounter, but the horse won't.

The animal in the picture is Betsy, my 12 year old mini mule. She has taught me more than any of the (many, many!) books and articles I have read over the years. We all have to start somewhere, and my hands-on began with her.

No one has yet mentioned the Coggins test. Hopefully, one was pulled before your wife bought her horse (you aren't supposed to ship a horse without one.) While the test isn't strictly necessary for the health of the horse, if you intend to move the horse around (like to shows or organized trail rides, anywhere it might encounter other horses) it will need to have had a negative Coggins result within the previous 12 months. The last time the Vet drew blood for a Coggins for Betsy, it took three of us to hold her down, and she's only 33" tall (mules can have strong opinions about things!)

If you are 5'7", and the horse is shoulder-high on you, that would put him in the 14 hand range. That's technically a large pony, although that is really more a matter of semantics. A typical animal that size should weigh around 700 - 800 pounds, although that would really depend on his bone structure. There is a system for scoring a horse, based on looking at specific points on his body, that is quite useful at determining the weight that is appropriate for that particular animal. A Body Condition Score of about 5 is usually considered ideal, but the scale ranges from 1 (walking skeleton) to 9 (obese). Weight tapes aren't 100% accurate, though they "get you in the ballpark" for wormer doses and such.

I don't think your new guy will turn into a fire-breathing dragon, but some horses will get a bit pushy as they start to settle in. They are just trying to see what they can get away with, and setting boundaries now can save you a lot of hassle later. You can be friends, but he needs to know that you call the shots!

I like that you are asking question, and gathering information. I've seen a few too many people that get a minimum of information from one source (some of it inappropriate, misunderstood or just plain wrong) and assume they know it all!

Good luck with this guy!

 

[Chickerdoodle13]

I think you will be fine in the long run and most people here have given good advice.

A few things I figured I'd mention (Since I didn't see anyone else post about) is that the chain link fence does worry me a bit. Horses will kick at things, and many times I've seen them lay right up against the fence and break boards or get legs stuck through boards trying to eat grass. Since chain link has wire holes in it, it would be very easy for them to get a foot stuck and that could cause a very dangerous situation. If you are building another pasture for the horse to live in, I would suggest using either hot wire, regular wire (only if it is put up properly and is tight - it can't sag) or regular wooden fencing.

The pool concerns me as well, especially if there is chlorine in it. Is there any way you'd be able to fence off the pool to keep him away from it? Again, if the horse were to spook or kick at the pool, he'd either end up in it, which would require you to take down the pool to get him out, or he would kick out one of the sides. Pools are expensive so I know you probably wouldn't want to have to replace it!

Also, I would look into getting him a companion, whether it be a goat or another equine down the road. It's not a deathly situation though, so I wouldn't worry about it until you are ready to take on another animal. We kept our first horse on our property without a companion for a month or two until we could build fencing for goats, and later we bought another horse. She was fine, as long as we spent time with her everyday.

If you can, attend a horse expo in your area. They will be starting in mid winter - early spring. There are TONS of information at these things, as well as training demonstrations, people you can talk to, and awesome vendors. You can probably just do a google search to find ones in your area.

Good luck with the new guy! I've certainly been in a similar situation, but I learned so much. Lessons help too. I had taken them for many years before I got my first horse, so I had a basic understanding of what to do to care for her. Luckily my dad took care of most of the feeding and such since I was so young. That gave me a chance to read and learn in 4-H.

 

[Wynette]

Okay, folks - I spent a ton of time cleaning this thread up. Remember the OP is asking for advice/opinions; he didn't post here to get blasted, so please don't post unless you have something helpful to add. Thanks to those who did keep this thread on topic without making it a flame fest.

 

[ducks4you]

I'm bookmarking THIS ONE to look at when I have a bad day!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ducks4you]

Far be it for me to give you some advice! (10 words)
This is the definition of a "FARB." (All CW Reenactors know what I mean!!!)

I will NOT be critical of you. I ALWAYS wanted a horse, since I was 5 years old. My parents wouldn't buy me one, though we were 5 minutes away from a reputable stable, so I worked and bought my lessons. I REALLY READ anything about horses I could get my hands on, and DH and I bought our first horses almost 25 years ago, in 1985. I wouldn't begrudge anyone their love. If your wife really wanted one, then you both should make a go of it.

Nobody that thought I would lose interest is saying anything about my dedication now. I had to drive out to care for my little herd for 14 years, many times in the winter without anyone else on the road with me because of bad weather. I've had them in the back yard for one decade now, and I've never looked back.

THAT BEING SAID...I, too think that this horse is in a better place now. I agree with getting a Vet, getting lessons, and reading about your purchase. My mare, "Moon Eyes" (below)

is unusual because she tells jokes. Her favorite?:
You can tell a horse person...
But you can't tell them much!!
(pretty funny, that)
DON'T be discouraged. Here's MY advice:
1) Get a rubber feeding bucket (it has no hardware on it, see?)
http://www.enasco.com/prod/images/products/5F/AC058074l.jpg
and give him the same water that you drink. Honestly, just like a little algae won't hurt your chickens, it won't hurt a horse, either. You can get VERY TIRED, constantly making your horse's water bowl super clean--less time to play with your horse, I say! The pool water is not the same as a pond. My "city water" has chlorine in it, but it's got less than the chemicals you put into your pool
2) Horses require 1 lb of hay/100 pounds of horse
Average horses eat about 3 flakes of hay/2 times a day. If you plan on 1 bale of hay per day, you'll have an adequate sufficiency. If your horse really is underweight, your Vet will most probably suggest more hay first, a supplement second. Horses have small stomachs that empty quickly. They are designed to eat many small meals per day, but they can tolerate 2 feedings per day. It's pretty obvious, feed less if your horse doesn't clean up the feeding, feed more if he's looking around for food.
3) CAREFUL about putting weight on a horse. If you can see the ribs, but there's a covered topline, and good padding on the chest and backside, the horse is in good weight. You can founder or colic a horse by giving them extra calories. Weight needs to be gained gradually--Your VET will give you good advice on this horse.
4) (You're not gonna like this one) It's possible that your horse IS underweight and managable because he's weak--you didn't give us any pictures to go by. His manners need to be worked on. Better to take the perfectly mannered horse and test them, than to find out that you bought a monster AFTER you've made him healthy. Test on the following:
(a) obediant to haltering/tying
(b) obediant to picking out feet
(c) obediant to saddling
IF you're not sure about (c), pay for a trainer to come out and try him. The money you spend with the trainer will save one of you a hospital visit.
I bought this "mare from hxxx" a few years ago. She seemed to have a timer on how long I could work her, so I took her to my Amish farrier/horse trainer. Had to go get her after she spun and tried to kill him. She was ONLY 14 hh even. I've gotten REALLY FUSSY about the horses I buy now, and the most recent purchase is the 35th horse I've owned.

Hope this helps! Good luck, and PM me with any questions!

 

[twentynine]

Brief reply. Working nights, got to report in at 1630. But got some work at home before I leave.

Coggins test, negative, got the paperwork and he is chipped.

Chain link, tight no holes.

Pool water containing CL2, residual CL2 level is below the threshold for potable water treatment. No copper sulfate is used to treat the pool water.

He will be in a nice dry stall tomorrow PM.

Pasture fencing will be high tension hot wire.

Horse size and wieght, I figure him to be about 700#, his ribs show slightly, backbone is not showing, maybe a little thin at the hips. Yes! About 14 hands.

I can't put a picture up right now because I am ashamed of his appearance. He came to us very very very dirty and his color being primarily gray, he's looking mighty shabby. The guy literally told me to take him to the car wash. I have no intention of doing that, but the weather is to cold to go out there and wet him down for a wash job.

Still no back talk from him. He is right now standing at the window looking in.

 

[ducks4you]

Almost forgot--horse height is measured in "hands". One hand is 4 inches, and you measure from the ground to the top of the shoulder or "withers" which is bone is back on the neck and in front of the back. All horses (except Arabians) are considered ponies if they measure 14 hands plus 2 inches, or 14'2hh ("hh" means hands high) OR smaller. If they have high withers, YOU, as the rider, sit slightly lower than the horses' measured height.
IF YOU at 5'7" tall cannot see over this horse's back, he is MIGHTY TALL!! I have a 16'2hh gelding, and I'm 5'4" tall, and I can barely see over his back. (Yes, I can mount him from the ground, and yes, I am his trainer.) I suspect you are looking at his head and looking eye to eye with him. I'm betting he probably measures around 15'hh, which is a very good height for most horse sports and backyard playing around.
Again, good luck. Are you on backyardherds.com? The link is at the bottom of the page. Many good experts there to help you. My personal favorite is LauraM.

 

[RabbitMage]

Huh. My ten words or less reply seems to have completely vanished from this thread.

It was edited out for being inappropriate.​

 

[halo]

Quote:
This all sounds like you are in the right track, and off to a good start upgrading the living conditions of this horse. I don't assume you're an idiot - I assume you wanted to know what you needed to know...I posted the basics (as I see them) and it's not only for you, but for anyone who may come along and need/read this information, too.

The grain/pellet thing...for now - less is more...up it little by little. Putting more weight on with hay will be safer, but sometimes it's really necessary to feed grain/pellets.

I also use dried beet pulp (soaked in molasses) to put weight on (or keep it on my elderly mare). Most feed stores carry this & it comes in 40 lb bags. Dried beet pulp has lots of good calories accompanied by lots of fiber that the horse needs to keep things moving. But - and this is HUGELY important: YOU MUST SOAK THE BEET PULP IN WATER FOR 30 MINUTES prior to feeding it to the horse. You want to put in so much water that it as loose as soup broth and stirl it well several times. If you don't have time to soak it, don't feed it. If you do not soak it, and the horse eats it - it will swell up in the stomach and cause blockage, and this will be a life threatening emergency. I feed this to one of my horses daily to help keep his weight up - it's important that he gets it...but it is soaked first. As with all feeds, start with small quantities...one quart in the am and one in the pm. But check with your vet first on your horses specific nutritional needs...each one is different.

Good luck and feel free to pm me if you have any other questions I can help with. It seems that there are a few knowledgeable people here who are willing to help you any time!

First, about beet pulp. Beet pulp is a fantastic feed for horses. Beet pulp pellets do need to be soaked; they can cause choke. Beet pulp shreds do NOT need to be soaked, tho most horses find them a little more palatible if you do. Only need to soak for a few minutes. Beet pulp does NOT swell up in the stomach and cause blockage. Beet pulp is digested just the same as any other feed. There are many many feeds that contain shredded beet pulp as their main ingredient. None of them need to be soaked. Lots of misconceptions about beet pulp floating around.

I would suggest finding a better quality hay than bahia. Bahia hay around here is only used for cows, even its best quality is poor hay for horses.

Have fun!!