I got a horse, now what? update 1-22-11

[twentynine]

Got you on the wire. Plan is high tension smooth wire or hot wire.

This morning is not so good. I suffered an accident in 2001, results were a broken right wrist and a compression fracture to my back. Right wrist this morning is swollen and painful to the point of unusable. Instead of hammering down another 35 small post and 10 more 4X4s I guess we are going to chase material.

 

[katrinag]

Sorry to here that today is not a good day. I understand. I blew a disc in my back last year and have good and bad days.
Go slow, if you hurt yourself bad you are no good to your horse.LOL

 

[duckluck]

Quote:
One thing in favor of the store-boughts is that they are pretty light...depending on how long you need them, that may make or break whatever gate post you mount them on. It is always a good idea to have a block under the end to take some of the weight off the gate post when the gate is closed...otherwise, it can make the post crooked or put too much tension on the gate mounting hardware. Also keeps the gate from drooping and making ugly drag tracks in the soil.

Me personally, I'd vote in favor of the store boughts...I can weld too but unless you have free material available, I don't think it's worth it in terms of overall material cost + time.

 

[~*Sweet Cheeks*~]

Great article on worming: http://www.thehorse.com/ViewArticle.aspx?ID=2460

Latest newsletter: http://www.thehorse.com/enews/01222010.html

 

[twentynine]

Quote:
One thing in favor of the store-boughts is that they are pretty light...depending on how long you need them, that may make or break whatever gate post you mount them on. It is always a good idea to have a block under the end to take some of the weight off the gate post when the gate is closed...otherwise, it can make the post crooked or put too much tension on the gate mounting hardware. Also keeps the gate from drooping and making ugly drag tracks in the soil.

Me personally, I'd vote in favor of the store boughts...I can weld too but unless you have free material available, I don't think it's worth it in terms of overall material cost + time.

Yes! I agree on the weight issue.

Free material, well if I had time to scrounge I could get it for the cost of the gas to go pick it up. I work in an industrial production facility, always cast offs laying around. Rather than pay a disposal fee, I could get a "gate pass" and bring it on home. However that stuff don't grow on trees, it may be 2 years before something like that becomes available. In the past I would plan ahead on projects, unfortunately not the way it's got to be on this one. Pipe or tubing material cost more than a store bought, not counting welding rods and time. And Lord only knows how much it would weigh.

Built a 10' gate this morning out of PT pine. This gate in my plans will be seldom used. So it will function more as part of the fence rather than a repeatedly opened and closed gate. All material costs were about $60 + 1-1/2 hours of time. And it weighs a TON, maybe like 75# +. The actual pasture gates are planned to be 12', so if I add the additional material cost, and the added weight, it becomes a no win.

The store boughts weigh maybe 30#, come with the hinges and pins, and I know were to go get'em.

On a high note Cody is doing well, he has begun to feel at home, making horse noises when he hears my truck drive up the driveway. Making kind of a bubbling/ blowing noise when we walk up to him. He is a very easy catch, I know it's hard to believe but I swear he will actually try to put his rope halter on. If you hold it open in front of him he will stick his nose in it.

Maybe he is slightly heavier, his ribs aren't sticking out as much, but his backbone is still showing some and he still has some hollows in his hips.

Feed. He is still getting the sweet feed pellets, but as I have been advised, I am now wetting them down making a mash. He will be changed over to a Purina Equine Ration when his present supply is depleted. I have increased his hay ration. With the severe freeze we had a 2 weeks ago their is no more grass in his enclosure.

With all the rain his enclosure is becoming muddy. Maybe not WWI mud, but more than I would like to see. With a little luck, I hope to have him an additional 1/2 acre Monday or Tuesday. Working them night shifts this weekend, so we won't be getting much done until Monday.

More later. Have some questions regarding, exersize. Cody--- not me, I am getting plenty building a one horse, horse farm.

 

[Kelly G]

All sounds good!

One quick thing to watch out for when the ground is wet: keep an eye on his feet (mostly the bottoms of) and watch out for thrush to develop. It can cause a big problem...but it's usually from standing on damp/wet ground. Some horses never get it, some are more prone to it. Here in Florida, we all have to watch out for it!

This is a really good, quick video that will give you an overview - I think it's important to watch so if a problem begins to develop, you can head it off.

 

[twentynine]

Okay------Update----------------

The people at Tractor Supply are now on a first name basis with me. Purchased 4 gates today from TSC. Then on to Lowe's for another supply run of 4x4s. While I may not know much about horses, I have built fence----lots of fence. The more heavy material you can put into a fence the longer it will last!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Working night shift getting home at 0500, sleeping until 1200, doing a few things, maybe chase some material, 1600 head back to work. Working off at 0500 Monady and will be off until 0500 Wednesday.

Question: Been reading about exersize, particularly use of a lunge line. Well I understand the deal about the horse on the outside of the circle and me on the inside. And I understand using this as a training tool, teaching the horse word commands, whoa, walk, trot, canter and such. But my question is: How do you start THE FIRST TIME? Maybe hook the line to his halter and get him to walk in a very small circle for a minute or two? How do I get to the point of using a 30' line? and if wanders would never cease--- How do I get him to transition into a trot? The book says NEVER touch the whip to the horse, merely use it as a sight tool. To get him to go forward I am to stay to the rear of a imaginary line extending out from his shoulders. I got that. But how do I get him to move the first time, you know like step number 1?

Other update. Today we were given/loaned a saddle. I have not layed eyes on it yet, but I fully expect it to be a saddle that some one would give away. The youngman that sent it to me moved away to Fl and is training horses in the area of Milton Fl now. He called telling me he had heard we had got a horse so he was sending me a saddle. I describe Cody to him, he said the saddle should be adaquate and comes with everything else we need to ride. For what it is worth I do not think we are ready to take that step yet, but regardless of what the saddle is, I can use it for a training tool. You know put it on him, walk him around, take it off, put it back on, walk him around.

Any how this leads me to another question. Bits? I have been reading about curb bits and snaffle bits. Nearest I can see their is about a gillion types of bits. In simple terms can some one give me a general idea how to tell if I am using the proper bit?

I have been visiting some of the horsey forums and barn yard herds but they ain't no way I am going to muster the courage to ask a question over there.

 

[rodriguezpoultry]

As for the lunging, having a round pen helps immensely as a guide, but if you don't have one. Go slow. Make him walk in a circle first, don't let him "cut" through.

Use a LONG whip. Don't hit him with it, wiggle it back and forth behind him. If he doesn't do anything, try making noises with it. It's a whip, it will crack if done correctly. My horse will see the whip behind him and start moving. Eventually, you won't even need the whip.

Instead of just doing a flat out walk, mix it up a bit. Make it more interesting. Work in "whoa" and turn-arounds and back ups...it's actually quite fun once you and the horse understand each other. But again, having a round pen helps the horse and you have a guide, so working without one will make it more difficult. The main thing is, do not let the horse get the best of you. You are in charge and you need to set the limits.

ALWAYS try to end on a good note.

The one thing I do at the end of it, is to always have the horse come to me at the end of the exercise. I just prefer it that way, it's his signal that the workout is over.

 

[~*Sweet Cheeks*~]

This is where you could use a trainer because it's all about your body language and the way you face your horse, hold the line, hold your arms, turning your body at different times. Lots of little details I learned when I began working with a trainer.

In my case, it was complicated by the fact I had a gated horse prone to pacing or step-pacing. Not good in a gated horse. And she would cross-fire in her canter. Another bad thing for any horse.

Being green, I didn't know one from another and I would think that you wouldn't either. The trainer I had only charged $25.00 per hour once a week. It was well worth it and I would really recommend you find someone as well.

 

[AmCanyonStables]

I did not read all the replies, so in case someone has not said it yet, see if you have RFD TV channels - they are a good source of videos on horses and training, some good, some not so good, but at least there is a volume of them and they are free.
I like the Craig Cameron ones the best. Does not replace a trainer, though. Please believe me, you do not want to learn the hard way - having done some dumb things myself. (see photo)

img]
yes, that is my horse hanging from that helecopter!
On the other hand, do it right, and you can see some great things from the back of your horse.