I need help with a framing question

[Lulu-vt]

I'm in the beginning phase of building a new coop. I want to have a clean out slot in the back, where I can just push the bedding from the front to the back, out a little slot (3 inches) and into a sled which then goes to our compost. In order to make that happen, I have to frame the coop differently. Instead of using 2x4's as load bearing, can I use a horizontal board attached to a vertical board then have the rest of the vertical boards attach to the horizontal board? Does that make sense? I guess I'm worried that the horizontal board won't be able to bear the weight of the rest of the boards. Is there a way to secure it so I can make this happen? I've drawn a very basic picture. What do you think?

 

[PrettyBirdRocky]

Not exactly sure what you mean, I'm more a visual person. We used this as a base frame for the bottom, not quite the size we went with but layout. And then went from there. We have a back door to scrap out coop, as our set up is coop for sleeping, pen for nest boxes attached to large run. Hopefully someone with more advanced knowledge can assist.

How many birds do you plan on having? And how big of a coop would probably determine the load bearing of the horizontal boards

https://gardenplansfree.com/animals/6x6-backyard-chicken-coop-free-diy-plans/

Eta that site is free and that coop does need a lot more ventilation, but we only used the bottom frame base

 

[saysfaa]

...can I use a horizontal board attached to a vertical board then have the rest of the vertical boards attach to the horizontal board?

Yes. It is done all the time to frame windows.

Is there a way to secure it so I can make this happen?

Yes. The easiest way is to put short pieces of 2x4 under the horizontal 2x4. These supports are called cripples. Putting them at just the ends would leave your slot open but you may need something bigger than a 2x4 depending on the width of the slot.

Also depending on how much weight is above the beam at the top of the slot. For example, if the roof is supported by this beam or some other way.

 

[Tstraub]

By the looks of your drawing the wall you want to put the slot in is not a load bearing wall because it’s on the gable end of the roof. The roof will set on the two outside walls and be transferred all the way to the ground through the legs. You should be fine putting any size door you want in that wall. I would frame it like your picture.

 

[Lulu-vt]

Not exactly sure what you mean, I'm more a visual person. We used this as a base frame for the bottom, not quite the size we went with but layout. And then went from there. We have a back door to scrap out coop, as our set up is coop for sleeping, pen for nest boxes attached to large run. Hopefully someone with more advanced knowledge can assist.

How many birds do you plan on having? And how big of a coop would probably determine the load bearing of the horizontal boards

https://gardenplansfree.com/animals/6x6-backyard-chicken-coop-free-diy-plans/

Eta that site is free and that coop does need a lot more ventilation, but we only used the bottom frame base

I already have 16 chicks. They are living in my bathroom! They are growing exponentially every day so I need to finish soon ha ha. The chicken coop I am building is 12 x 8.

 

[Lulu-vt]

Yes. It is done all the time to frame windows.

Yes. The easiest way is to put short pieces of 2x4 under the horizontal 2x4. These supports are called cripples. Putting them at just the ends would leave your slot open but you may need something bigger than a 2x4 depending on the width of the slot.

Also depending on how much weight is above the beam at the top of the slot. For example, if the roof is supported by this beam or some other way.

I’d like to keep the bottom area open under the horizontal board, so I can sweep chicken bedding out. I will put “cripples” at the end of the board. Ideally the opening would be 36” but if that’s too long without support I could make it smaller. I could use a 2x6 as the header board. Would that make it more stable? Also, there would be framing on the top and rafters for the roof.

 

[Lulu-vt]

By the looks of your drawing the wall you want to put the slot in is not a load bearing wall because it’s on the gable end of the roof. The roof will set on the two outside walls and be transferred all the way to the ground through the legs. You should be fine putting any size door you want in that wall. I would frame it like your picture.

Ahhh. Good point. Yes. Thanks.

 

[MountainWoman73]

I think you want the hole bigger than 3 inches wide. I built a trap door in the floor of my coop that I sweep bedding out of. It's about.... 15 by 15 inches? And still sometimes big wads of straw get stuck in it and I have to push it through with my rake. I'm sure you'll make it work, but that's my first thought.

 

[Lulu-vt]

I think you want the hole bigger than 3 inches wide. I built a trap door in the floor of my coop that I sweep bedding out of. It's about.... 15 by 15 inches? And still sometimes big wads of straw get stuck in it and I have to push it through with my rake. I'm sure you'll make it work, but that's my first thought.

Good point. I'll definitely think it through before I build. Thanks.