Quote:
You might know this already:
A bigger hole with improved soil would probably help. Your hole should be no deeper than the original root ball. A tree has a root flare (identifiable break from stem/trunk and root system) and this flare should be just above the soil, which means planting at the same depth the tree was at before transplanting. If the root flare is covered it could rot over time, and overall it's not healthy for the tree. Make your hole 3-4 times wider than the root ball, and then back fill with mostly native soil and a combined total of 30% peatmoss/vermiculite/manure (mixed with native soil). Don't add fertilizer until the tree is established. I also recommend locally adapted bare root transplants, they have a better survival rate and they are less expensive.
Good luck, it sounds like a lot of work ahead for you.
You might know this already:
A bigger hole with improved soil would probably help. Your hole should be no deeper than the original root ball. A tree has a root flare (identifiable break from stem/trunk and root system) and this flare should be just above the soil, which means planting at the same depth the tree was at before transplanting. If the root flare is covered it could rot over time, and overall it's not healthy for the tree. Make your hole 3-4 times wider than the root ball, and then back fill with mostly native soil and a combined total of 30% peatmoss/vermiculite/manure (mixed with native soil). Don't add fertilizer until the tree is established. I also recommend locally adapted bare root transplants, they have a better survival rate and they are less expensive.
Good luck, it sounds like a lot of work ahead for you.