Ideas to predator proof

skrlis

Songster
May 27, 2014
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I'm about to start setting up my coop/run for 7 chicks, 7 guinnea, and 4 turkeys (turkeys will be slaughtered for thanksgiving) but I'm worried its not predator proof enough. The total area will be 8x22' rectangle with an 6x8' Amish coop at one end, 10' of welded wire dog kennel fencing connecting to a 6x8' covered lean to with roosts. i'm planning to drape the hole thing in poultry netting and dig in a chicken wire skirt. I'm in western NY and have plenty of raccoons, a fox in the area and i'm sure a weasel somewhere. Should I add something or change something? I think the fox wont have a chance but what if the raccoon climbs the fence? will the netting break? can they chew it? how small of a hole can a weasel fit though? I think the kennel hole are 1x3''?
 
Chicken wire Will. Not. Do. It. if you know already that you need to keep raccoons out.

You need to use heavy gauge 1/2" hardware cloth and you need it to cover any portion of your construction that isn't sturdy wood or other study building material -- those suckers can chew and scrape as well as climb. You need to secure your hardware cloth to your structural elements and your window openings with washers and screws -- if they get their agile little paws under something they'll work it off. You need to dig it in 12" - 18" down to prevent digging and tunneling into your enclosure OR you need to create an apron 12" out from your perimeter. I'm dug in AND I have 12" concrete pavers up to my enclosure. I'm not taking any chances in my urban LA neighborhood 'cause I've battled raccoons and I have great respect for their abilities.

After you do that you need to make a thorough examination and see if there are any gaps you've missed. Look high and look low -- raccoons look big and bulky but that's all squishy fat and they can squeeze through incredibly small openings.

Next you need to make sure your latches have back ups like carabiner clips that prevent the latches from being lifted and released You need to secure the door to your enclosure, the door to your coop (if it isn't fully enclosed within your perimeter, and the collection port on your nesting boxes (if they extend into the exterior). The good news is they can't simultaneously squeeze the spring on a carabiner and rotate it out of a latch. They're clever but not that clever, thank god.

If you do all that you'll be OK. And that's saying a LOT because you probably already know that raccoons are smart, agile, diligent and unrelenting when they've identified a potential food source. If you've secured it all you can also be confident that rodents aren't going to get into your coop. That's a major accomplishment too because keeping them out is a WHOLE lot easier than getting rid of them after they've gotten in.
 
At first I only had the hardware cloth 2’ high thinking they only could reach in while standing....wrong, lost 2 keets. I wrapped my whole kennel with 2’ high hardware cloth and since my loss I went another 2’ high on the end they roost at. We put live traps out around the area 2 a few days ago and have caught and eliminated 2. I’m down to 1 out of 15 adults in a year but I have 2 groups of keets. I’m going to cover the back part of under the playhouse with something for them and start keeping them penned up at night.
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My run is all 1/2" hardware cloth. I cut it about 6" taller than the run and buried the excess. I'm on a mountain and the soil is only about 6" deep, after that, all rock. I mixed a bag of concrete and poured it on the wire that's underground. If your soil will allow it, bury it deeper and skip the concrete. For the top, I don't think that the netting will be strong enough. Keep in mind that large snakes will be able to get in the fence holes that are 2" x 3". Large snakes will not go after large chickens, but they will eat small birds and eggs.
 

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