In need of Peachick rearing advice. Anyone help??

When I purchased my first peafowl I started out with chicks and yearlings so I had a good year to dream about breeding, hatching, and raising these glorious birds. Finally a year past and I found myself on the crest of my first breeding season.. I had five cocks and eight hens that had turned two years old and I was ready to start raising peafowl! Visions of fat healthy chicks more beautiful than their parents danced in my mind. That first year I hatched fifty two chicks and at the ages of two and a half to four months had successfully raised forty eight of them. I couldn’t have been more proud if I had laid the eggs myself. About that time disaster stuck. It started out with a beautiful loud pied chick about three months old. I noticed him limping and upon closer examination realized his leg was actually twisted at the joint in his hock. My first thought was that he had injured himself and dislocated his leg. I started talking to breeders with more experience than I had and was told he had a slipped tendon that could not be fixed. Further examination proved them right. I could actually find the tendon and the groove in the hock that it had slipped out of. Taking my thumbs I could manipulate the tendon back into place, but by his second or third step it would pop right back out. Not one to give up easily I tried taping it in place, I even put him in a sling for a few days to take the weight off his leg. As time progressed his leg actually rotated around almost backwards and he appeared to be in great pain .After more consultations with people who knew more than I did, including my vet, the decision was made to euthenise him. Meanwhile several more of the chicks were displaying the same symptoms. Fearful of finding another crippled bird, made going out to the pens a dreaded chore instead of the delight it used to be. I was told by several breeders their feed had to much protein for their age and to go from a game bird starter to a game bird grower at about two months of age. I immediately switched to a grower but by that fall I had lost twelve of my forty eight chicks to slipped tendons. A quarter of them!

[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]My first year was almost my last year of raising peafowl. I didn’t want to deal with the pain and suffering, mine and theirs. I became determined to learn everything possible about slipped tendons. I called two universities and talked to professors in their poultry science departments. Both men told me too much protein in a diet could cause multiple problems in the health of any animal. It could cause deformities and could also affect the health of internal organs, particularly the kidneys. They also said they knew of no controlled studies in peafowl specifically to determine the proper amount of protein.
They both also mentioned the problem could be a nutritional lack of certain vitamins and minerals. As I continued on my search for answers I came across a publication that has been a life saver on numerous occasions; The Poultry Health Handbook by Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences. In a chapter on nutritional and metabolic diseases Dr. Owen Keene discusses perosis or slipped tendon. He describes it as a deforming leg weakness with clinical signs of flattening and enlargement of the hocks which is followed by slippage and lateral rotation of the Achilles tendon out of the condyles of the hock. Dr. Owen goes on to say this disease is caused by a deficiency of the mineral manganese and that choline,niacin and biotin are also involved. He acknowledges that there is no treatment for chicks already affected but correcting the diet prevents new cases. He states that the rule of thumb on perosis morbidity is that when five or more of a thousand birds are affected the manganese level in the feed should be checked. Poultry require between 35 to50 ppm in their feed to prevent perosis. When dealing with perosis the level should be increased to 75 ppm. Manganese contents higher than 100 ppm will be wasteful. Armed with this information I made a few changes the next hatching season. I had been using a game bird feed manufactured at a local feed mill. When I compared the ingredient list to a more expensive name brand I noticed the name brand had a higher percentage of some vitamins and minerals including manganese. I decided to pay the extra dollar a bag and switched to the name brand. I then started looking for a vitamin mineral supplement that contained the needed ingredients. I did not want one of the products made for convalescing birds that contains electrolytes because these are usually high in glucose or some form of sugar, and I wanted a supplement that would be good for their health long term. I finally found a multiple vitamin with antioxidants and trace minerals called Polt Pak Vitamin Concentrate. It contains all of the supplements mentioned in Dr. Keene’s article to prevent perosis. The product is a water soluble powder that I purchase from Cutler’s Pheasant and Poultry Supply in Applegate MI. I start the chicks on it at birth and leave them on it until they are six to eight months old. The directions say a four oz. package does 128 gallons of drinking water. I use about ½ tsp. per gallon of water, or until the water turns the color of pale lemonade. Has this helped? I have gone from 25% of my chicks afflicted with perosis to less than 1%. Last year I raised 128 birds and lost only 1 chick to perosis. It was a four month old white hen that developed the problem on the day we caught her and moved her from a wire floored pen to the ground, and I think her problem was an injury that happened while moving her.
I am not a veterinarian, nor do I have a degree in nutrition or animal sciences. I am merely a fellow peafowl aficionado who loves the birds and loves raising them. I am sharing this information in the hopes that it may prevent someone from having to go through the heartache of destroying their birds due to a disease caused by a nutritional problem. Once again I am anxiously looking forward to a new breeding season with visions of fat healthy chicks more beautiful than their parents dancing in my mind.
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[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]CAROL COOK
COOK'S PEACOCK EMPORIUM
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More on leg problems
http://www.upaforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=9077&sid=93effe7127295ccfde7a2b663613a1f3

http://www.thepoultrysite.com/publications/6/diseases-of-poultry/220/slipped-tendon-perosis



Source:http://www.texaspeafowl.com/breeders.html


OCCURRENCE: Young birds. Correlates with crowded confinement, using slat or wire floors, feeding rations with high mineral content or unsupplemented.
PEROSIS



ETIOLOGY: Mainly due to deficiency of manganese or choline.
CLINICAL SIGNS: Malposition of one or both legs from the hock distally. The hock is swollen and the obvious site of malposition.

LESIONS: Initially: Hock is flattened, widened, and enlarged. Later: Leg from hock distally deviates laterally. Gastrocnemius tendon at the hock has slipped from its trochlea. The tibia andmetatarsus may be bowed and twisted. Shortening and thickening of the long bones of the legs and wings or displacement of the articular cartilage of the distal end of the tibia may be apparent.
DIAGNOSIS: Lesions, age, and size of bird.
Feed analysis. PREVENTION Feeding balanced ration.
TREATMENT: None for the bird affected. Prompt supplementation of the feed with manganese, choline, and B vitamins may minimize the problem.
 
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different person replying to your post. how young do you start to worm them? what method? what wormer? more details please, thanks Judy...
I have wormed them as young as one week with fenbedazole 10% (Safeguard or Panacur, liquid or paste) 50 mg/kg (0.5 ml per 2.2 pounds of body weight)by mouth and repeat in ten days. A one week old chick weighs about 100 grams, so it would get 0.05ml, I think, but haven have my coffee yet, so don't quote me on that, lol.


-Kathy
 
I'm thinking since you've been keeping in an enclosed brooder it's prob. lacking fresh air, sunshine and proper exercise. All this can lead to growth related issues such as rickets.
Curious as to the substrate you've kept that chick on also ? If it's paper then that's not a good non slippery flooring and can lead to leg issues also.
I would suggest somehow being able to get it all the above elements mentioned and add some various B vitamins ( complex in human form if nothing else ) to the diet and hope for the best .
The leg issue may very well be too advanced for the vitamins etc. to help any but couldn't hurt and by all means, keep the protein level in the feed as low as you can get by with, say 22 % or less.
 
I, too, want to thank everyone for so much advice and information!

This is so much more complicated than the peachick I raised 4 years ago. I just plopped it in with the bantam chicks I was raising inside (and then in the garage) and put him outside with them at about 8-10 weeks. He's a fine fellow now, and is the father of some of these chicks

@ Yoda: I wasn't clear about the sugar. It was only for the first two days for the first two chicks, and just the first 1-2 days for the third chick, which meant that the first two did get a little more, but there was no sugar in the water after that. I've also got them on just chick starter now as per your recommendation.

@ casportspony: I was hoping that since you live so close to me that the supplement you had found would be obtainable close by, but I can see that as soon as I finish this response, I will need to make an order at Cutlers. What was the protein % of the gamebird feed you ended up using? And are you not willing to use the name of it? Yesterday, in my quest for higher protein, I got a 50lb sack of Turkey starter (27%) down in Salinas, but I've not opened it I can probably return it. Otherwise, I've got medicated Chick Starter which I will just keep using based on Yoda's recommendation (and stop adding things to it). Would you be up for a visitor today or this weekend? (I'm in Prunedale)

Worming: at a week or a month? These chicks went right from under mommahen (less than 24 hours) to this cage, and then outside of that, inside the house, a couple of times a day. Would they have picked up a worm (or egg or oocyst or whatever they would pick up)? "I have been worming with fenbendazole 10% (Safeguard or Panacur, liquid or paste) at 50mg/kg by mouth and repeating in ten days, but I have been thinking about trying 20mg/kg three days a row instead." Do you use a syringe? How do you weigh your chicks? How much should I expect a 1-2 week-old chick to weigh?

@ birdeo: Now I'm considering taking everyone out for a romp in the sunshine. I'm going to keep them in their cage which is protected from drafts and will keep them off the ground. What about grass or greens? Grit? Mealworms? I'm looking for a treat I can use to reward them for coming to me as I am seriously working on hand-taming them. Right now, their cage is right next to me all day unless I get up. When I do get up, they start crying and running back and forth across the open end of their cage. When I am here, they are either playing, sitting on their perch, or warming themselves under the lamp (I'm raising it a little at a time; I have a collection of wire spacers (1-in. increments) that go on top of the cage).

One of them seems to be trying to dust itself, so I am considering going to get a bag of clean/sterile sand. I might put that in a tray in their cage or in a pile outside so it comes up into their cage if I take them outside. Recommendations?

Also, has anyone used a rodent waterer that hangs on the side of the cage?
 
I, too, want to thank everyone for so much advice and information!

This is so much more complicated than the peachick I raised 4 years ago. I just plopped it in with the bantam chicks I was raising inside (and then in the garage) and put him outside with them at about 8-10 weeks. He's a fine fellow now, and is the father of some of these chicks

@ Yoda: I wasn't clear about the sugar. It was only for the first two days for the first two chicks, and just the first 1-2 days for the third chick, which meant that the first two did get a little more, but there was no sugar in the water after that. I've also got them on just chick starter now as per your recommendation.

@ casportspony: I was hoping that since you live so close to me that the supplement you had found would be obtainable close by, but I can see that as soon as I finish this response, I will need to make an order at Cutlers. What was the protein % of the gamebird feed you ended up using? And are you not willing to use the name of it? Yesterday, in my quest for higher protein, I got a 50lb sack of Turkey starter (27%) down in Salinas, but I've not opened it I can probably return it. Otherwise, I've got medicated Chick Starter which I will just keep using based on Yoda's recommendation (and stop adding things to it). Would you be up for a visitor today or this weekend? (I'm in Prunedale)

Worming: at a week or a month? These chicks went right from under mommahen (less than 24 hours) to this cage, and then outside of that, inside the house, a couple of times a day. Would they have picked up a worm (or egg or oocyst or whatever they would pick up)? "I have been worming with fenbendazole 10% (Safeguard or Panacur, liquid or paste) at 50mg/kg by mouth and repeating in ten days, but I have been thinking about trying 20mg/kg three days a row instead." Do you use a syringe? How do you weigh your chicks? How much should I expect a 1-2 week-old chick to weigh?

@ birdeo: Now I'm considering taking everyone out for a romp in the sunshine. I'm going to keep them in their cage which is protected from drafts and will keep them off the ground. What about grass or greens? Grit? Mealworms? I'm looking for a treat I can use to reward them for coming to me as I am seriously working on hand-taming them. Right now, their cage is right next to me all day unless I get up. When I do get up, they start crying and running back and forth across the open end of their cage. When I am here, they are either playing, sitting on their perch, or warming themselves under the lamp (I'm raising it a little at a time; I have a collection of wire spacers (1-in. increments) that go on top of the cage).

One of them seems to be trying to dust itself, so I am considering going to get a bag of clean/sterile sand. I might put that in a tray in their cage or in a pile outside so it comes up into their cage if I take them outside. Recommendations?

Also, has anyone used a rodent waterer that hangs on the side of the cage?
Fresh air and sunshine does a world of good for chicks
as long as it's warm out and not rainy/breezy ( for the very young) and you can keep them off the ground at the same time for the first 3-4 months of their lives.

Greens are great, grass is fine if you can give the " top clippings " and avoid the dirt from the roots being fed. ( wash all fresh greens, etc. you feed them just to be safe )
Try some fruit but again, wash it first. ( Grapes, etc. )
They LOVE bread and peanuts but wash salt of salt off salted peanuts first.
I know many give mealworms but I don't.. too expensive a treat imho when bread is a treat they love and at a greater value.
Sand is fine but it sounds like you need to expand their " play area"....all birds need room to run and play !
 
Thanks for the response!

Indoors their play area is now the entire sofa and they want to be with me or on me ALL the time now. Very much not like chicks that way. They also seem to eat and poop less than chicks and are much more dainty with their food. I was worried that they weren't eating enough, but the three of them seem to be fine and the poop looks good.

They are 3 weeks old now I think, the third one being 2 weeks old. The older ones have about 1.5 - 2 inches of tail and about a 1/4 inch of crown feathers now. They are beginning to get some chest feathers

Expanding their outdoor play area while at the same time keeping them off the ground is still a bit of a puzzle right now. For now, their play area is a wire cage 36" X 18" with the bottom converted to hold sand and provide a wall 4 inches high in addition to 3/4 of it covered with burlap to protect from drafts. I put a board on the top to provide a shaded area if needed. I could put up a roll of 2'-high wire in a circle on the driveway, but that is still on the ground, and I'm pretty sure putting sand in there would be frowned on. I also think they could fly over it. I am open to creative suggestions

I'll try some greens and fruit (they didn't appreciate my offering of a piece of plum the other day). Grit? I think they are eating the sand, but it is very very fine and I wonder if it is enough.

A 4th hatched yesterday. I let it stay under the hen all day and night and just this afternoon put it in with the others while I can watch it (along with the flat waterer filled with marbles) for a couple of days. Everyone is behaving.
 
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