In need of some mite suggestions/help!

I totally agree with using Elector PSP. I live in the Pacific NW, and my free range flock interacts way too closely with lots of wild birds. The Northern Fowl Mites (NFMs) are resistant to almost everything. There are two things that I found that work well.

1) When it's warm out, I use Elector PSP. It is labelled for use directly on the chicken for NFMs, and also for spraying in the coop. It comes in a strong concentrate, and requires dilution. The directions are for dilution of a larger amount than I need, so I did the math and use 9 cc diluted in one gallon of warm water. I also add a small squirt of dishwashing liquid per gallon, as it doesn't stick to the skin and feathers very well otherwise -- it's just falls off like water off a duck. Add the dishwashing liquid and it sticks well. After dilution, I put some in a one quart plant sprayer (labelled to use only this product in it to avoid accidental contamination with other products). That allows me to spray each bird quickly. You can also make up a 5 gallon bucket worth of it, and quickly dip each bird (not the head). According to the manufacturer, birds are dipped instead of sprayed in Japan, and it is safe. It can be used to spray the coop, and the spray can be powerfully infused into wood cracks to hopefully kill the NFMs hiding out of sight. Elanco (the manufacturer) is currently working on getting Elector PSP approved for use against Red Mites. It is not yet approved, and they are finding that they will need to use a higher concentration, but so far the results are promising (last I heard they were testing it 5 times more concentrated than for NFM, but you only need to spray the coop and roosts for Red Mites, not the birds directly). Here is the best place I have found to order Elector PSP: https://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail...pmt|bb|&kwid=bcf5befb161a4067a916269241961145

2) When it's cool out and I don't want the birds to get wet down to the skin, or when I don't want to make up a whole gallon of Elector PSP, I use sulfur powder. There are many different grades of sulfur, and many different ways to make it. The least expensive is agricultural grade, which is a diesel byproduct, and has lots of contaminants in it. I personally would not use agricultural grade on birds, but many people use it successfully. If is quite inexpensive. A step up is industrial grade, which has most of the contaminants removed, and is considered acceptable for feed grade. It is also quite inexpensive (https://smile.amazon.com/Ground-Ele...444&sr=8-1&keywords=sulfur+powder+DUDA+ENERGY). A truly pure product is ACS reagent grade sulfur, which is more expensive but has all the contaminants removed. (https://smile.amazon.com/Sulfur-Pow...=1469165947&sr=8-2&keywords=ACS+sulfur+powder) It is a fine powder, with the consistency of corn starch, so there will be a few clumps. I gently sift it (outside), and put it in a squeeze bottle with a narrow opening to act as a puffer. (https://smile.amazon.com/Vestil-BTL...d=1469166287&sr=8-21&keywords=plastic+bottles) The tip can be cut back a few mm to enlarge the opening just a tiny bit (not too much). Then I put the tip of the bottle underneath the feathers and squeeze the bottle. The powder dusts the skin, and is mostly trapped underneath the feathers, so there's not a dustcloud for the birds to breath. It takes some practice to get it just right, but usually after 2-3 birds you can get the dusting done well without as much of a mess. The nice thing about this is that you don't have to do every bird at the same time. You don't have to dilute down a concentrated product every day (Elector PSP only lasts for 12-24 hours after dilution), so you can just have a squeeze bottle sitting on a shelf and grab it for 1-2 birds as you catch them. Sulfur takes 1-2 days to kill the mites, and for a really badly infested bird I sometimes get impatient and treat them again a second day, but I've never had it fail (so far). It can be irritating to lungs and eyes, so I don't apply it around the head, but that hasn't been a problem.

For Red Mites, here's a copy and paste from Jeanette Green in Australia, who is very successful and control mites naturally:
Make up an amount of the citrus vinegar..this is soaking citrus skins into vinegar and seal in a jar leaving in the sun for as long as you can...i use the skins of fruit i have juiced already and frozen in icecubes for later culinary use....the oil from the skins is the repellant..Ive used my Mukrut/Kaffir Limes....

Take about a litre of the citrus vinegar and pour into a bucket....
add a bottle of Tea Tree Oil (about 50 ml)....
add a bottle of Eucalyptus Oi (50-100 ml).....Rosemary/Lavender Oils are welcome but arent bug killers but odourous repellants...

Mix it all up ,with a litre of cheap oil...sunflower for example ..veg oil of some sort...

Dilute it with more white vinegar until you have it stirred up and thin enough to paint around...another litre or two..depends...
Wear gloves and preferably glasses...i had a splotch in the eye and it stung badly...

Paint all the wooden surfaces..posts rails,perches,wooden nest boxes....
The shed floors can be sprayed out with the solution of citrus vinegar and TTree/Eucy....
 
If you're interested in a mite, lice, fly, beetle eradicator that is Poultry Veterinarian recommended AND has NO EGG WITHDRAWAL period, go with Elector! I have used it twice in two different coops on two different flocks of birds and did not need to re-apply as with other products. It works like a charm after ONE application. It is SAFE for the chickens AND the humans using it, which is more than can be said for the toxic powders that have limited usefulness. I have used many different products over the years and spent a small fortune on $8 and $10 canisters of ineffective products that I had to repeatedly purchase and repeatedly apply while throwing out the eggs for 3 weeks to a month. What a waste! I swear by this stuff. You can read much more about it HERE, including a video showing how to use it and instructions for diluting it in water. It can be sprayed inside the coop while the birds are in the coop and on the litter. Say goodbye to flies, mites and lice with this stuff. It's unbelievable. There's also a YouTube video link to the manufacturer's explanation of how it works, which is fascinating (if you're geeky about these things like I am. lol).  This is an affiliate link to purchase the stuff. If I hadn't used it myself, I wouldn't have believed it.

If you get it and use it, leave a follow-up for others to clue them into how amazing this product works for your flock. It's the best kept secret in external parasite control for backyard flocks!
Cheers!

Kathy Shea Mormino

The Chicken Chick
00ae.png


Thanks Kathy, I follow your blog and get your emails, so I am happy to hear directly from you! I wonder if it is available in Canada. I'll have to do some research on it. So far it seems my efforts have paid off. How often do you treat for mites? Is there anything you use on a regular basis to keep mites at bay?

~M~
http://kmhv04.wix.com/fromthehenhouse
 
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I totally agree with using Elector PSP.  I live in the Pacific NW, and my free range flock interacts way too closely with lots of wild birds.  The Northern Fowl Mites (NFMs) are resistant to almost everything.  There are two things that I found that work well. 

1)  When it's warm out, I use Elector PSP.  It is labelled for use directly on the chicken for NFMs, and also for spraying in the coop.  It comes in a strong concentrate, and requires dilution.  The directions are for dilution of a larger amount than I need, so I did the math and use 9 cc diluted in one gallon of warm water.  I also add a small squirt of dishwashing liquid per gallon, as it doesn't stick to the skin and feathers very well otherwise -- it's just falls off like water off a duck. Add the dishwashing liquid and it sticks well.   After dilution, I put some in a one quart plant sprayer (labelled to use only this product in it to avoid accidental contamination with other products).  That allows me to spray each bird quickly.  You can also make up a 5 gallon bucket worth of it, and quickly dip each bird (not the head).  According to the manufacturer, birds are dipped instead of sprayed in Japan, and it is safe.  It can be used to spray the coop, and the spray can be powerfully infused into wood cracks to hopefully kill the NFMs hiding out of sight.  Elanco (the manufacturer) is currently working on getting Elector PSP approved for use against Red Mites.  It is not yet approved, and they are finding that they will need to use a higher concentration, but so far the results are promising (last I heard they were testing it 5 times more concentrated than for NFM, but you only need to spray the coop and roosts for Red Mites, not the birds directly).  Here is the best place I have found to order Elector PSP:  https://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail...pmt|bb|&kwid=bcf5befb161a4067a916269241961145

2)  When it's cool out and I don't want the birds to get wet down to the skin, or when I don't want to make up a whole gallon of Elector PSP, I use sulfur powder.  There are many different grades of sulfur, and many different ways to make it.  The least expensive is agricultural grade, which is a diesel byproduct, and has lots of contaminants in it.  I personally would not use agricultural grade  on birds, but many people use it successfully.  If is quite inexpensive.  A step up is industrial grade, which has most of the contaminants removed, and is considered acceptable for feed grade.  It is also quite inexpensive (https://smile.amazon.com/Ground-Elemental-Commercial-Additives-Brimstone/dp/B00K3RBYJQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469165444&sr=8-1&keywords=sulfur+powder+DUDA+ENERGY).  A truly pure product is ACS reagent grade sulfur, which is more expensive but has all the contaminants removed. (https://smile.amazon.com/Sulfur-Powder-Grade-Space-Saver-Bottles/dp/B00T56L0Q8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469165947&sr=8-2&keywords=ACS+sulfur+powder)  It is a fine powder, with the consistency of corn starch, so there will be a few clumps.  I gently sift it (outside), and put it in a squeeze bottle with a narrow opening to act as a puffer. (https://smile.amazon.com/Vestil-BTL-RC-8-Polyethylene-Dispensing-Removable/dp/B00B5138SO/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1469166287&sr=8-21&keywords=plastic+bottles)  The tip can be cut back a few mm to enlarge the opening just a tiny bit (not too much).  Then I put the tip of the bottle underneath the feathers and squeeze the bottle.  The powder dusts the skin, and is mostly trapped underneath the feathers, so there's not a dustcloud for the birds to breath.  It takes some practice to get it just right, but usually after 2-3 birds you can get the dusting done well without as much of a mess.  The nice thing about this is that you don't have to do every bird at the same time.  You don't have to dilute down a concentrated product every day (Elector PSP only lasts for 12-24 hours after dilution), so you can just have a squeeze bottle sitting on a shelf and grab it for 1-2 birds as you catch them.  Sulfur takes 1-2 days to kill the mites, and for a really badly infested bird I sometimes get impatient and treat them again a second day, but I've never had it fail (so far).  It can be irritating to lungs and eyes, so I don't apply it around the head, but that hasn't been a problem.


For Red Mites, here's a copy and paste from Jeanette Green in Australia, who is very successful and control mites naturally:

Make up an amount of the citrus vinegar..this is soaking citrus skins into vinegar and seal in a jar leaving in the sun for as long as you can...i use the skins of fruit i have juiced already and frozen in icecubes for later culinary use....the oil from the skins is the repellant..Ive used my Mukrut/Kaffir Limes....

Take about a litre of the citrus vinegar  and pour into a bucket....
add a  bottle of Tea Tree Oil  (about 50 ml)....
add a  bottle of Eucalyptus Oi (50-100 ml).....Rosemary/Lavender Oils are welcome but arent bug killers but odourous repellants...

Mix it all up ,with a litre of cheap oil...sunflower for example ..veg oil of some sort...

Dilute it with more white vinegar until you have it stirred up and thin enough to paint around...another litre or two..depends...
Wear gloves and preferably glasses...i had a splotch in the eye and it stung badly...

Paint all the wooden surfaces..posts rails,perches,wooden nest boxes....
The shed floors can be sprayed out with the solution of citrus vinegar and TTree/Eucy....


Thank you for all your onfo too! I am especially interested in natural methods with no egg withdrawal time period. I will look into the elector psp and it's availability in Canada. I found your info especially helpful!

~M~
http://kmhv04.wix.com/fromthehenhouse
 
Thank you for all your onfo too! I am especially interested in natural methods with no egg withdrawal time period. I will look into the elector psp and it's availability in Canada. I found your info especially helpful!

~M~
http://kmhv04.wix.com/fromthehenhouse
Here is a copy and paste from ValleyVet regarding how to order their products from Canada:

How do I place my order?

Our internet site will not accept foreign orders at this time.
To place your order from outside the U.S., please call 785-562-5106. Additional $25 fee per shipping box applies to foreign addresses (those without a state/territory U.S. zip code).
For orders from Canada, please call 1-800-419-9524. We will be able to take your order and inform you of shipping costs, arrival date and product availability.

Not all products can be shipped to Canada, so you will need to call to see if they can send it to you.
 
Here is a copy and paste from ValleyVet regarding how to order their products from Canada:
How do I place my order?

Our internet site will not accept foreign orders at this time. To place your order from outside the U.S., please call 785-562-5106. Additional $25 fee per shipping box applies to foreign addresses (those without a state/territory U.S. zip code). For orders from Canada, please call 1-800-419-9524. We will be able to take your order and inform you of shipping costs, arrival date and product availability. Not all products can be shipped to Canada, so you will need to call to see if they can send it to you.
Awesome, thank you! I'll check it out in the morning. ~M~ http://kmhv04.wix.com/fromthehenhouse
 
My neighbor uses Ivermectin once a year with her chickens and swears by it. I have just started with a new flock of Guinea Fowl. You mentioned using 4 drops on your big girls. How big are they? My Guineas are French Guineas and will be about 5-7 pounds when full grown. They are 12 weeks now. Would you recommend waiting until next spring or treat them sooner. They are free ranging and I spot check them and the coop regularly - no sign yet of lice, mites or worms, but I realize it's just a matter of time. I don't have egg production, so that's not a concern here. I might consider Elector or a similar product at some point and whatever I end up using, I'll be sure to post the results. Always good to share what works so that others may benefit.
 
Go to cedarcide.com. I bought their tri jet fogger and best yet cedar oil. You fogg the coop, close it up for a couple hours, air out a few more and you are good to go. You will need to re fogg in 5 days just incase some eggs didnt get smothered and start to hatch. Expensive? Yes but worth the $ in the long run. I will never use anything else.
You can also go to wondercide.com. They have great products.
I have posted before on this subject. For bathing i just use ivory dish soap in their bath- no rinsing
Your birds! Smothers lice and mites and leaves their feathers silky soft.
Pm me and i can copy what i wrote and send it too you.
 
Pests and dusting chickens. If you get the chance is would pay off in dividends by altering the coup a bit. I have found after many year of chickens that the housing is very important. What do I do? WELL I VISITED A FLOORING STORE IN MY TOWN AND WAS ABLE TO PICK UP SOME LARGE PIECES OF LENOLEUM .ALL THREE OF MY COUPS HAVE IT ON THE FLOORS AND 3 INCHES UP THE WALL. REAL EASY TO SCRAPE AND SWEEP UP, MUCH LESS SANITIZE..BEFORE SANITIZING I SWEEP OUT THE LITTER AND THEN USE A 5G GALLON SHOP VACUUM. I GO OVER THE FL,OOR AND THEN OVER ALL THE CRACKS AND TOPS EDGES OF TILE. THE FLOORING HAS PAID OFF AND SO MUCH EASIER TO KEEP CLEAN FOR YEARS. SPRAY AND LET DRY WITH BLEACH SOLUTION, LET DRY, AND THEN DUST WITH CHEMICAL DUST. FOLLOWED BY FRESH SHAVINGS. HAVE N OT HAD A INFESTATION FOR 7 YEARS. FOR SOME REASON I BELIEVE A THOROUGH CLEANING WITH THE VACUUM CLEANER DID THE TRICK.
I A,LSO BURNED A LOT OF BRUSH AND TOOK THE ASHES AND PURED INTO SEVERAL SMALL WHOLES I DUG. THEY ENJOY DAILY. IF IT GETS LOW I BURN A BIT MORE OR HAVE IT ON HAND. ..... NORM
 
Pests and dusting chickens. If you get the chance is would pay off in dividends by altering the coup a bit. I have found after many year of chickens that the housing is very important. What do I do? WELL I VISITED A FLOORING STORE IN MY TOWN AND WAS ABLE TO PICK UP SOME LARGE PIECES OF LENOLEUM .ALL THREE OF MY COUPS HAVE IT ON THE FLOORS AND 3 INCHES UP THE WALL. REAL EASY TO SCRAPE AND SWEEP UP, MUCH LESS SANITIZE..BEFORE SANITIZING I SWEEP OUT THE LITTER AND THEN USE A 5G GALLON SHOP VACUUM. I GO OVER THE FL,OOR AND THEN OVER ALL THE CRACKS AND TOPS EDGES OF TILE. THE FLOORING HAS PAID OFF AND SO MUCH EASIER TO KEEP CLEAN FOR YEARS. SPRAY AND LET DRY WITH BLEACH SOLUTION, LET DRY, AND THEN DUST WITH CHEMICAL DUST. FOLLOWED BY FRESH SHAVINGS. HAVE N OT HAD A INFESTATION FOR 7 YEARS. FOR SOME REASON I BELIEVE A THOROUGH CLEANING WITH THE VACUUM CLEANER DID THE TRICK.
I A,LSO BURNED A LOT OF BRUSH AND TOOK THE ASHES AND PURED INTO SEVERAL SMALL WHOLES I DUG. THEY ENJOY DAILY. IF IT GETS LOW I BURN A BIT MORE OR HAVE IT ON HAND. ..... NORM

That is an excellent point that definitely needs to be addressed. The type of flooring, and walls, in the coop makes a huge difference. Solid, one-piece linoleum is expensive, but most coops are small enough to use remnants, which will be cheap. Going part way up the walls, 1-2 feet if possible but even 4-6 inches will work, will prevent mites from getting between the floor and wall, where they are almost impossible to get out of that area. I didn't build my coops that way, but wish I had. Putting a layer of mite control (I use sulfur powder) underneath the bedding is very useful. I also sprinkle a thin layer of sulfur at about 1/2 shaving depth, and again on the top. A very thin layer on top, so that it doesn't get too dusty when the birds return to the oop and walk on it.
 
I have a film on a dvd from Justin Rhodes Chicken Permaculture that explains about using a bunch of different type of herbs you can use in your nest boxes, coops and runs that lice, mites and all those nasty little critters don't like. This lady recommends mint and basil leaves either dried out or fresh to lay in the boxes and the coops and runs that will keep them out. Maybe you can search you tube for Justin Rhodes herbify your chickens or try going to his website at abundantchickenpermaculture. that may help you.
 

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