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Ordered an STC-1000. I’ll try to get a refund on this one.
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I’m not losing my marbles, right? These are two different diagrams? The top one indicates that terminal 1 is live, and the bottom indicates that terminal 2 is live. Necessarily, or else the heating source would not make sense, despite the unclear labels.
I tried both configurations but now I wonder if I fried it. Multimeter shows that the terminal is live but neither configuration works…
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Thank you. I didn’t see anything wrong with the board.BantyChooks,
In the second diagram you'll notice the input is not labeled line and neutral. So, depending on how you plug it in these diagrams are the same with the exception that the first one has a ground to the heater & cooler. It will work fine either way. Have you closely examined the soldering connections on the circuit board? I have fixed many malfunctioning circuits by re soldering cold joints. Also you can sometime see the effect of excess heat on a part turn the board slightly brown.
Oh thank you! I’ll look into it. Perhaps time to learn how to solder.Btw if you’re not familiar with the terms VCC and GND are DC positive and negative they are really important to make the microcontroller power on.
Good deal. They make a hi precision version of that controller (PID). Would not be a good choice with lightbulbs as a heat source. Simple wiring and setup. Has direct output solid state relay but will only switch 2amp. Around 30 bucks on Amazon here. That being said i've never seen one on a home built bator, it's always the stc-1000 version. I guess it is almost twice the price though.Works beautifully, no issues with the new thermostat. Testing temperature stability today.