So, I'm going to divide my coop. One side will be for my layer flock. The other side will be for meat birds.
My layer flock will be around 12 or 14 hens. Meat birds, I'll probably only raise 10 or 12 at a time.
The coop is 12' by 12'. I feel like the layers should have more space than the meaties, but I don't know why I think that. Partly because of the need for next boxes, although they don't take up much space as it is.
Also, each half of the coop will have it's own outdoor run, but one will be bigger than the other. Which flock should have the bigger run?
So, I'm going to divide my coop. One side will be for my layer flock. The other side will be for meat birds.
My layer flock will be around 12 or 14 hens. Meat birds, I'll probably only raise 10 or 12 at a time.
The coop is 12' by 12'. I feel like the layers should have more space than the meaties, but I don't know why I think that. Partly because of the need for next boxes, although they don't take up much space as it is.
Also, each half of the coop will have it's own outdoor run, but one will be bigger than the other. Which flock should have the bigger run?
I would cut the coop into 3 sections. The middle section would be a nesting box section. Then the other two sections would be up to you on how big you want. To make them the same size seems like a good choice. BUT raising meatins does not require a lot of space just a lot of litter control. If the meaties are in a covered run, they might free range a bit and grow a tad slower. But I would try raising meaties in the smaller run side first. I would try to rotate things up a bit if you decide to section 1/3 off for raising the meaties the first 3 weeks and 2/3 for the hens with a small area in the middle for nesting boxes. Then when the meaties are really putting on weight I would change who got the larger coop. By rotating the hens from side to side and run to run, you might be able to keep grass in the runs longer.
Two neighborhood cats are a couple houses away & looking toward my chickens! My roo (who rarely crows) made a lot of noise for about 2 min straight. My dog was frantically digging at the fence trying to get to them. The cats have lived in the neighborhood for over 4 years and can be seen roaming free. They have rarely entered our yard. I know our dogs discourage most animals from entering, but my dogs will have to come inside at some point. If the cats do decide to visit, will an Orpington rooster be able to protect the hens? Honestly, I'm not sure if the cats are interested in a chicken dinner, but they were looking. Although I'm sure a barking dog trying to rip them apart would also be something they would want to watch. Do cats like to hunt chickens? I have no experience with cats.
I don't think you really have anything to worry about. When I first for chickens I kept them at my grandpas. He has always brought home stray cats an have them a home. Many are very very good hunters. The cats quickly find out they are afraid of the chickens. Now if A dog was to leave a carcass behind the cats would eat off it, but they really don't have the motivation to kill a full grown chicken. Chicks are a different story. Some will be good with them and some not
I would cut the coop into 3 sections. The middle section would be a nesting box section. Then the other two sections would be up to you on how big you want. To make them the same size seems like a good choice. BUT raising meatins does not require a lot of space just a lot of litter control. If the meaties are in a covered run, they might free range a bit and grow a tad slower. But I would try raising meaties in the smaller run side first. I would try to rotate things up a bit if you decide to section 1/3 off for raising the meaties the first 3 weeks and 2/3 for the hens with a small area in the middle for nesting boxes. Then when the meaties are really putting on weight I would change who got the larger coop. By rotating the hens from side to side and run to run, you might be able to keep grass in the runs longer.
I forgot to mention, the chick brooder will be in a totally different place, in the garage. So, the meaties won't go out to the coop right away anyway.
I like the idea of three sections - I can do five feet on either end, and the two feet in the middle can be nest boxes.
I didn't even think of alternating runs, but that sounds good too. The small run that's already there has been grass-less for some time, but if I can spare some wear on the new run area, and maybe give the other a chance to re-grow, that would be outstanding.
I'm starting to plan how I want to make my turkey nesting boxes. Any recommendations for sizes and how high they need to be to keep the turkeys using them.
Right now I have smaller turkeys but in a year I hope to have large turkeys. Still the hens won't be nearly as large as the toms. The hens get to 12 pounds for the small breed and 20 pounds for the large breed. Right now my smaller breed turkey hens are only 20 weeks old so I'm thinking they won't be laying for at least another 10 weeks so after the new year. But I would like to have the nest ready.
Next for winter how do turkeys do in the cold? My original plan was to put them in the layer flock but @jchny2000 has posted that her turkey hens like to cull the roosters. My other options are the duck pen or make a new area in the pole barn but that area would be small and my turkeys are lovers of space.
sallyinIndiana , I dont have or probably never will have turkeys but i wanted to applaud you for having a flock of them. I am terrified of turkeys. lol I was chased and flogged by a big tom when i was very young and havent been around them since. The big people sat on the porch and laughed at me running from that thing for half an hr. LOL
Just wanted to clarify that when I talk about nutritional issues, I hope that folks will think in terms of good husbandry practices for PREVENTION of issues for the long- haul in their chicken keeping practices.
And also, just to hi-light again, that giving medications - especially antibiotics and antivirals - isn't necessarily the first thing we should think of since the way they're designed to work weakens the system further making it harder to regain health for the long-term.
I think that our society has been conditioned to think in terms of... symptom? go to the Dr. and get a drug... rather than looking to correct root causes that are often really simple and way more health-giving and strengthening than trying to kill something. Real health is built on nourishing and strengthening the organism (whether it is us humans or our animals or our plants) so that the particular organism is able to stand strong and be able to resist what's thrown at it.
Of course, that's not at all to say that drugs aren't appropriate in real emergency situations in which they're warranted. But...
[COLOR=B22222]"AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION IS WORTH A POUND OF CURE"[/COLOR] (Wish I had thought of that saying.... )
[COLOR=900000]Largely, yes, I agree. However, I've learned from a few bitter losses that these birds tend to hide symptoms, and by the time they appear sick it's likely too late to try supplementing or similar techniques. I do not advocate just blasting them with whatever you have because they are sick, but treating when you have a good idea of what is wrong or treating their symptoms to try and stabilize them so that you can keep them going until you can figure out what is wrong is not a bad idea in my opinion.
Of course, good husbandry and proper nourishment will keep your birds healthier and more likely to fight off disease--it's not a guarantee, but prevention is definitely better than trying to cure birds after the fact! [/COLOR]
Two neighborhood cats are a couple houses away & looking toward my chickens! My roo (who rarely crows) made a lot of noise for about 2 min straight. My dog was frantically digging at the fence trying to get to them. The cats have lived in the neighborhood for over 4 years and can be seen roaming free. They have rarely entered our yard. I know our dogs discourage most animals from entering, but my dogs will have to come inside at some point. If the cats do decide to visit, will an Orpington rooster be able to protect the hens? Honestly, I'm not sure if the cats are interested in a chicken dinner, but they were looking. Although I'm sure a barking dog trying to rip them apart would also be something they would want to watch. Do cats like to hunt chickens? I have no experience with cats.
[COLOR=000090]Don't be fooled--cats can and sometimes do kill chickens! And if they are showing interest, they may try! Your rooster will likely defend your girls as best he can, but there's no guarantee that he can protect them all from the cats. Is there any way you can talk to the owners and tell them what's up? If not, the only other thing I can think of is to totally block the cats or encourage them to find another place to lurk (perhaps with the aid of a garden hose...).
For those that have cats, remember that, like with chickens, there are a variety of temperaments and not all individuals are the same. For example, we have a cat that cannot go outside at all because he stalks and attacks the chickens. He even lunges at them if he sees them through the window. I imagine if he had been raised around chickens, he wouldn't be as interested, but I take the same philosophy with cats as with dogs--if they are showing any interest at all beyond just checking them out for the first time, I do not trust them at all with my birds![/COLOR]
I have found for needles the best go is from wal-mart, cvs, ect.. ask for diabetes short needles and you can get them for .50 cc or 1 depends on what your needing. tylan is a very thick medicine and it does take a few to get in the needle but the extra time is worth it. the needle has less chance of hitting something it shouldnt and is much smaller and less painful for the bird.
[COLOR=900000]I had read that using a smaller needle could actually damage the molecules of Tylan, thereby rendering it less potent--not sure how true that is, but that's why 20-22 gauge is recommended for needle size.[/COLOR]
If budget is not a concern, I'd do both. Gable vents at either end, and box vents on the roof itself, as long as you're confident that you can get the box vents installed without compromising the roof and causing a leak. And really, instead of box vents I'd install turbine vents - you'll get a bit more airflow.
The rule of thumb for ventilation is you can't have too much.
[COLOR=900000]Yup, this! If you want an actual number, I think the only set value out there is one square foot of ventilation per bird; slightly more for warmer climates and slightly less (but only slightly less) for colder climates. In the heat, as long as it's secure from predators, you can't have too much ventilation, but in the cold, you want to make sure that your ventilation is not causing a draft by blowing directly at the birds.[/COLOR]
So, I'm going to divide my coop. One side will be for my layer flock. The other side will be for meat birds.
My layer flock will be around 12 or 14 hens. Meat birds, I'll probably only raise 10 or 12 at a time.
The coop is 12' by 12'. I feel like the layers should have more space than the meaties, but I don't know why I think that. Partly because of the need for next boxes, although they don't take up much space as it is.
Also, each half of the coop will have it's own outdoor run, but one will be bigger than the other. Which flock should have the bigger run?
[COLOR=000090]The rule of thumb is 4 square feet per bird. So, you could give roughly 4-5 feet by 12 feet to the layers and about 4 feet by 12 feet to the meaties, which would leave a 3-foot lane for nests like what was discussed. Then you would also have room to step in and gather eggs without actually entering the area with the birds, and maybe have some room for storage as well (not much, but some!). [/COLOR]
[COLOR=900000]Did I see Brad @bradselig lurking? I thought he'd like to see this! Ga Ho chickens are apparently going to be imported to the U.S. by next spring:[/COLOR]
I forgot to mention, the chick brooder will be in a totally different place, in the garage. So, the meaties won't go out to the coop right away anyway.
I like the idea of three sections - I can do five feet on either end, and the two feet in the middle can be nest boxes.
I didn't even think of alternating runs, but that sounds good too. The small run that's already there has been grass-less for some time, but if I can spare some wear on the new run area, and maybe give the other a chance to re-grow, that would be outstanding.
I wanted to show you how we did our shed and nest boxes and it might give you some ideas.
I have an area that is the "people" part that the chickens can't get into. That way I can go in the door and not have chickens under foot. I also use that as a little storage area.
My nest boxes are accessible from the people side so I can gather them in there, out of the weather, without having to go on the chicken side.
The chicken part is divided into 2 areas so I can either close one off or keep it open depending on if I have a need. I used one side for the mamma broody or for brooding chicks if I brood w/out a broody. I could also do like you're doing and raise a batch of meat birds or whatever on that side.
There is now a 2nd pop door on that side that leads out to the kennel run. I just divide the run with temporary fencing and then when I don't need the divided area I can open it up so everyone can have the larger run.
Here is what it looks like:
Looking in from outside. You can see the nest box to the right.
On the people side: The box has a turning latch so that no critters can get in it and go through. (I leave the front doors clipped open all spring, summer and fall so the interior has to be predator proof.)
On the chicken side:
Standing in the people entry looking in. The divider gate is open so that they are accessing the whole area in this photo. You can see it just to the left of the chicken. That door is raised up with a short wall underneith so that it can swing without hitting the bedding.
All interior wall and door framing is framed so that there is not a large expanse of wire that an animal could push into easily. The smaller frames make it more predator proof. (Nest box over there to the left.)
Here is mamma broody using the right side with that interior gate shut behind her. (This was in January with temps in the teens and 20s. Mamma did a great job.)
[oops...a huge broody poop in the corner...better ignore that ]
Outside with the temporary divider. Using plastic netting you can just clip it up or use temporary stakes from the farm store and then remove when no longer needed. I found that I had to go all the way up to the top, however, as the "man" would get right out of the 4 ft. high fence so I had to hang a second one above. Used eye hooks screwed into the shed on the one end and clips on the kennel side.
This side now has a 2nd pop door so that they can enter it from the "broody side". It wasn't installed in this photo.
Rolled back.
Here it is with the pop door showing and the temp fence down.
You can see both pop doors here. (Both of them are on a timer to open and shut.)
The newest "chicken children" using the new pop door entrance earlier this summer.
)
[/COLOR]
