Insulating your coop?

[JoeST]

I live in central IN & if anyone is familiar with our weather it’s pretty unpredictable. Our temporary coop is about to get retired in place of a larger more well built coop.
I’m wrestling with the idea if I should bother insulting the coop? Their current coop is insulated all around with 2” foam board sandwiched between the inner & outter walls. I had built it several years ago for our first few chickens that was passed on to my parents until we got a small flock this fall.
I’ve seen most people don’t seem to insulate & ventilation is more critical than anything but I tend to overdo about anything I build. I don’t intend to keep them tosty in the winter just retain some warmth from the birds.
We have 6 in our group & no plans for anymore. Their pretty cramped right now & I will be more than doubling their space. They are completely free range to a decent sized fenced yard anytime throughout the day & weather allowing.

 

[IdyllwildAcres]

I’ve seen most people don’t seem to insulate & ventilation is more critical

I think you have answered your question right there.

Gary

 

[Ted Brown]

If you want to overbuild concentrate on eliminating drafts while providing great ventilation. The overall design of the new building is a critical factor in both these objectives.

Spending money on 2" foam insulation is a waste of money; eliminating drafts that don't arise from opening (doors, windows, etc) can be accomplished many ways depending on what wall sheathing material are used - caulking is the easiest/best if you are using 4' by 8' (or smaller sheets). Obviously location and design of openings will also help to eliminate drafts.

I am preparing to build a new coop come spring and will utilize the KD (knock down) Woods design (search herein, lots of information); even if that design is not of interest reading the book will give you lots of ideas that can be incorporated into whatever coop design you settle on.

Also, from what I have read internal layout (roasts, nests, food/water location, etc ) should be paid careful attention. Not only will it make your life easier (clean out, bird "happiness", etc) it will impact what design you settle on. For myself using what is proven to work is much better that trying to come up with something yourself.

If you do some serious reading herein you will find many examples of folks who start, modify, redo, etc. MUCH better to do it right the first time so spend plenty of up-front time reading and asking questions of the many expert and experienced members here. AND if you read something repeated many times (eg no insulation) accept it, incorporate into your plans and move on to other more important items.

 

[JoeST]

So on ventilation, would a simple gable & eve vent system work like you would do on a home? I had thought about going that route in some fashion. I just wasn’t sure what if any kinda down draft it might cause in the coop.

 

[Ted Brown]

So on ventilation, would a simple gable & eve vent system work like you would do on a home?

Those are the most common methods used. This is a useful read:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/winter-coop-temperatures.47763/

 

[JoeST]

Those are the most common methods used. This is a useful read:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/winter-coop-temperatures.47763/

Thanks

 

[Ted Brown]

Do a search using "vent design" using search tool above. Lots of pointers/options. Again your coop structure design will impact your available options.

 

[aart]

This is a good read too:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1048597/ventilated-but-free-of-drafts

So on ventilation, would a simple gable & eve vent system work like you would do on a home? I had thought about going that route in some fashion. I just wasn’t sure what if any kinda down draft it might cause in the coop.

Yes...and maybe a ridge vent too on a gable roof.
But can depend on your site, stay flexible.
I have deep eaves on a clerestory and sometimes snow blows in the upper eaves, but it's pretty rare.
The more ventilation the better, within reason, and keep in mind some of your ventilation you might want to damper down in winter and/or during extreme weather events.
Big roof overhangs all around for eave ventilation all year round as well as to protect windows(top hinged are best for rain protection and a full opening) during rain events.

For overbuilding...go big on size...forget the insulation.

 

[The Lazy L]

I live in central IN... if I should bother insulting the coop? ...I’ve seen most people don’t seem to insulate & ventilation is more critical than anything but ....

I'm northern Indiana. Coop is not insulated, no supplemental heat, coop is not drafty and the chickens lived through the -14 without any problems.

But I get the impression that the insulation is more for your peace of mind then for the chickens. Your money, your coop do as you see fit.

 

[Acre4Me]

Here is a pic of our non-insulated coop, with lots of airflow. The coop is fully behind the barn and protected from most of the prevailing winds. There is a window on one side of the east facing wall. Roosts are ladder style. Raised up from the ground- stays dry. It now has 6 ft of metal roofing on both sides of the coop (south and north sides, so it protects those large triangular ventilation areas). With this Arctic blast we had a few weeks ago, we got down to -12F and -36F windchill. The rooster with the large single comb did get some frostbite, but everyone else looks pretty good. But ventilation is important...along with keeping the birds out of the drafts.

Good Luck!