Introducing 8wk olds to 17 wk olds

FeatherstoneFrm

Songster
Aug 1, 2014
386
664
222
Appling, GA
I currently have 2 cockerel and 3 pullets, all about 17-18 weeks old. I am thinking about getting 2 or 3 more pullets that are now 8 wks old. What is the best way to integrate? I have a large dog crate to put in the run to start with
Or would I be better off to wait until my birds have fully matured?
 
As long as they have a structurally sound barrier between the two they should be fine. That way they can see and check each other out daily without being able to touch one another. You shouldn't have to wait till their completely mature for them to be integrated. I will suggest, that having a "chicken tractor" has helped me so much with mixing flocks!

A small simple one like this would be perfect for a couple pullets ( they are very easy to make ) :

upload_2018-7-1_21-5-43.jpeg


Good luck!:thumbsup
 
I would wait until they are about the same size! Unless they don't seem to mind each other, then It wouldn't be such a problem them being different sizes. Since they are still little it shouldn't be a problem! Hope this helps! :thumbsup
 
I have integrated my flock several times using a large dog crate keeping the younger ones in the crate for about a week with the door completely secured. Then I open the crate only wide enough for the smaller ones to get out and back in for another week. This allows safe return to the crate without the larger birds being able to follow. You should be able to tell when all is good to allow them to completely free range together.
 
I currently have 2 cockerel and 3 pullets, all about 17-18 weeks old. I am thinking about getting 2 or 3 more pullets that are now 8 wks old. What is the best way to integrate? I have a large dog crate to put in the run to start with
Or would I be better off to wait until my birds have fully matured?
Depends...on what your goals are and how big your coop and run are.
Do you plan on keeping one or both of those cockerels?
Are you getting more pullets to balance the male to female ratio?
....or did you plan on having 5 layers and ended up with those 2 pesky males?

Keep in mind that getting 8wk olds may introduce pests and disease into your small flock. So waiting and getting some chicks next spring might be a good idea.
Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article
BYC 'quarantine' search


Knowing those things would help garner more viable info,
but here are some tips on...
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

This used to be a better search, new format has reduced it's efficacy, but still:
Read up on integration..... BYC advanced search>titles only>integration
This is good place to start reading, BUT some info is outdated IMO:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/adding-to-your-flock
 
Depends...on what your goals are and how big your coop and run are.
Do you plan on keeping one or both of those cockerels?
Are you getting more pullets to balance the male to female ratio?
....or did you plan on having 5 layers and ended up with those 2 pesky males?

Keep in mind that getting 8wk olds may introduce pests and disease into your small flock. So waiting and getting some chicks next spring might be a good idea.
Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article
BYC 'quarantine' search


Knowing those things would help garner more viable info,
but here are some tips on...
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

This used to be a better search, new format has reduced it's efficacy, but still:
Read up on integration..... BYC advanced search>titles only>integration
This is good place to start reading, BUT some info is outdated IMO:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/adding-to-your-flock
Thanks for the info. I started with 5 pullets and 1 straight run hoping for 1 roo. I ended up with 3 too, 1 was culled for severe leg deformities.
I do want to keep both Roos as long as they continue to behave themselves, so I am looking to balance the ratio and hopefully get some Easter/olive eggers to color my egg basket. Getting them a little older can help guarantee pullets. I had hoped for the same age but the breeder doesn't have what I want at that age.
The new pullets are coming from a breeder with a good local reputaion.
 
Getting them a little older can help guarantee pullets. I had hoped for the same age but the breeder doesn't have what I want at that age.
The new pullets are coming from a breeder with a good local reputaion.
Makes sense.

How big is your coop and run, in feet by feet?
Dimensions and pics would help us to help you figure out some solutions.

Can you section off a part of coop and run for the new birds to start integration?

Have you had male birds before?
Would be good to have another enclosure, or a couple of wire crates, to seclude the males if thing go sideways, best to have these ready cause when things get ugly, it happens fast.
 
Thanks for the info. I started with 5 pullets and 1 straight run hoping for 1 roo. I ended up with 3 too, 1 was culled for severe leg deformities.
I do want to keep both Roos as long as they continue to behave themselves, so I am looking to balance the ratio and hopefully get some Easter/olive eggers to color my egg basket. Getting them a little older can help guarantee pullets. I had hoped for the same age but the breeder doesn't have what I want at that age.
The new pullets are coming from a breeder with a good local reputaion.


Definitely a good thing, buying from someone with a good reputation. Keep in the back of your mind that each group gets exposed to different things- their immune systems learn how to defeat them --

Adding two groups that have grown up in different places can be like taking kids from different schools on a field trip to the planetarium - everyone's apparently healthy. But the kids from school A didn't have previous exposure to the same stuff as School C, and it makes them sick (and so on). Everything looks fine for a couple days- then a bunch get sick.

Quarantine is an important step in all this- first for your new 8 week olds to adjust to whatever is in your ground through their immune systems- and every ground is a little different, depending what has lived there, and so on -- then there's the additional stress of introductions. Ideally they should have a couple weeks with none of the social stress.
 

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