Introducing new older chickens

Samanthaalvin1

In the Brooder
Jun 8, 2020
41
22
26
Dandridge, TN
We currently have 6 chickens which are 3.5-5 months old. None of which have laid eggs yet. I am going this evening to purchase 2 buff orphingtons and 1 ameraucana which are 11-12 months old. How should I introduce them? Is this too much of an age difference to add to the same area? We have a coop that is inside a 15 x 14 fenced area with a top.
 
Even though you have enough space in the outside area, what are the coop dimensions? A lot of problems are caused by too small of coop, regardless of out side space.

But as to the introduction, older is going to have more clout as they are laying, but strangers to a new set up, reduces that clout. You have more younger birds in their home territory, that is going to help.

I would put them in there very late in the afternoon, I would expect some dust ups, some pecking, some running around and chasing. I would let that go. However I have a large run, I have a lot of clutter in my run, where birds can get out of sight of each other. This really helps integration.

Now, it can happen that you have a very aggressive hen. So do this when you can observer them the next day too. If you have a real wreck, let the original birds outside the run and coop and lock the new ones in. Feed both sets of birds near the fence line. When it gets very close to dark, let the original birds back in. The urge to roost is nearly as strong as the urge to fight.

Quarantine will be strongly recommended, and it has it's merits, but it is nearly impossible to properly do a quarantine in a true back yard set up. If your birds are very valuable or you would go into a state of an emotional decline, do not get new birds. Otherwise, look them over carefully, do not buy anything you feel sorry for, and ask if they have been to swap meets or other places where chicken diseases can be found and picked up. To me, healthy looks healthy, but sometimes it doesn't.

I would really expect this to go pretty well if you have a big enough coop. A big enough coop should be 4 sq feet per bird, so 4 x 9 = 36 sq feet, so something like a 6ft x 6 ft or 8ft coop. Nothing really allows you to cheat on coop size.

Mrs K
 
Even though you have enough space in the outside area, what are the coop dimensions? A lot of problems are caused by too small of coop, regardless of out side space.

But as to the introduction, older is going to have more clout as they are laying, but strangers to a new set up, reduces that clout. You have more younger birds in their home territory, that is going to help.

I would put them in there very late in the afternoon, I would expect some dust ups, some pecking, some running around and chasing. I would let that go. However I have a large run, I have a lot of clutter in my run, where birds can get out of sight of each other. This really helps integration.

Now, it can happen that you have a very aggressive hen. So do this when you can observer them the next day too. If you have a real wreck, let the original birds outside the run and coop and lock the new ones in. Feed both sets of birds near the fence line. When it gets very close to dark, let the original birds back in. The urge to roost is nearly as strong as the urge to fight.

Quarantine will be strongly recommended, and it has it's merits, but it is nearly impossible to properly do a quarantine in a true back yard set up. If your birds are very valuable or you would go into a state of an emotional decline, do not get new birds. Otherwise, look them over carefully, do not buy anything you feel sorry for, and ask if they have been to swap meets or other places where chicken diseases can be found and picked up. To me, healthy looks healthy, but sometimes it doesn't.

I would really expect this to go pretty well if you have a big enough coop. A big enough coop should be 4 sq feet per bird, so 4 x 9 = 36 sq feet, so something like a 6ft x 6 ft or 8ft coop. Nothing really allows you to cheat on coop size.

Mrs K
Thank you so much for the info! Our current coop is 7x5. We are actually going to work on re-configuring it slightly today to push the nesting boxes back outside the coop to give alittle extra space inside. I just have to finish up building the enclosure and lid to attach to our coop.
 
Then I really would not expect too much fracas. Do put in multiple feed stations, set up so that a bird eating at one station is out of sight of a bird eating at another. Make sure there is platforms, roosts, ladders, chairs, totes on the side, pallets leaned up against walls so that birds can get out of sight of each other.

Mrs K
 
This 'coop'?
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/enclosed-area.1388359/post-22796066
....is not 7x5.
Sorry, but not really big enough for the 6 you have let alone integrating 3 more.

But here's some tips about....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/
 
This 'coop'?
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/enclosed-area.1388359/post-22796066
....is not 7x5.
Sorry, but not really big enough for the 6 you have let alone integrating 3 more.

But here's some tips about....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/
We have actually been working since yesterday to completely remodel this coop as we wanted more space. It is entirely enclosed now and the nesting boxes have been moved to an addition we build on to the outside wall. By doing this it added about 13" more length to a coop that was 6.5 feet long. We also took out the floor that came in it and moved the floor to what is the bottom of the coop int his photo. This will allow us to have much more roosting space for the chickens and created a height of around 60" at the center point inside the new "coop" area. I am working today to add a 8" stand/table we are going to put this coop on top of and secure to just for ease of cleaning. Once we get it all painted and fixed back up this weekend I will post some photos as I know many people have this coop and need more space like myself.
 
We have actually been working since yesterday to completely remodel this coop as we wanted more space. It is entirely enclosed now and the nesting boxes have been moved to an addition we build on to the outside wall. By doing this it added about 13" more length to a coop that was 6.5 feet long. We also took out the floor that came in it and moved the floor to what is the bottom of the coop int his photo. This will allow us to have much more roosting space for the chickens and created a height of around 60" at the center point inside the new "coop" area. I am working today to add a 8" stand/table we are going to put this coop on top of and secure to just for ease of cleaning. Once we get it all painted and fixed back up this weekend I will post some photos as I know many people have this coop and need more space like myself.
Sounds great!....got pics?
 
This 'coop'?
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/enclosed-area.1388359/post-22796066
....is not 7x5.
Sorry, but not really big enough for the 6 you have let alone integrating 3 more.

But here's some tips about....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/
 

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