Is it worth it?

[Chickylove12]

This is my first year with chickens and I've learned a lot. I haven't done everything right, but thanks to BYC, I've done a lot of things right. One thing I did was picked up some Corid right away. Eventually, you will need it and it works well. I did have to de-worm them once, but that was relatively painless. I put it in some yogurt and they scarfed it right up. You'll learn as you go and that's part of the fun of it. Go for it!

 

[Chickylove12]

How did u know worms were there? And how did u know when they were gone. I bought these things from a store that wont be supplying them after march apparently because they are vet resources. So i thought i would start stocking up now. I am in ontario canada ànd got them from Ritchies feed and seed.

 

[Chickylove12]

 

[Chickylove12]

So far...this is as far as I have got in my dream..four wooden ones..ba ha

 

[Birdinhand]

HI THERE. I do not have chickens or a coop/run yet..however I have been researching how to keep them and care for them. I have now become nervous about all the diseases they may carry..as well as parasites. Lice..mites..worms..etc. Thinking of myself..my dog etc..is this a given that backyard chickens will have issues? I see so many people enjoying their flocks on these sites..or am I just being paranoid?

I highly recommend starting out right, get it all set up well in advance of the chicks arriving, wait till it's not freezing outside and when you get the chicks get them straight out to the coop, skip the indoor brooding part, I find that is where a lot of issues start. a mother heating pad set up is the best brooder, you can do a search to find the thread with all the details. they really do benefit from lots of fresh outside air, but buffeted from draft. the only time I brood inside is for our kids, it's definitely not necessary for the chicks, as long as they have a heat source to go to, they manage to regulate their temperature quite well, running out and eating and drinking and frolicking as desired.

As for the coop, get a metal can for the food, frame out the coop and apply hardware cloth, NOT poultry netting. keeping out the vermin cuts down on disease and predation. make a covered run, envelope the coop and run with hardware cloth, even on the floor if you can, mending the seams every 3-4" with thick black zip ties for anywhere they will be under ground and using fencing staples/U-nails every 3-4" for the above ground part where it gets attached to the posts. I place the posts at about 43-44" centers so you can overlap at the seams a couple of inches, the hardware cloth/fencing comes in 48" rolls, get the the thicker gauge with 1"x1/2" spacing. you can use a 3" long screw and a washer at an angle every three feet or so on each side/post to get the fencing taught, then nail it down with the U-nails/fencing staples, then remove the screws and move them another several feet and repeat. it takes considerable effort to do the hardware cloth right but it is the single most valuable place to spend your money and time to avoid future headaches. the door way framing and door should not have any more than a half inch gap, this is the size of an adult female rat's head, if you can keep them out, you will avoid the problems that come with a rat population explosion. if you build to keep rats out, you can keep everything else out. for the floor, you can dig down about 8" before laying the hardware cloth, then once it's placed and mended, cover it back up with dirt, this will be the base for your hens litter. look up the deep litter method, I highly recommend it. no need to be constantly mucking out the coop, the aim is to create a good micro biome that is aerobic, doesn't smell or harbor disease. over cleanliness can actually lead to unbalanced micro-biology and increase the need for antibiotics. after you have the whole coop framed and enveloped in hardware cloth, I recommend putting a roof on top, chickens do not benefit from rain, it only stands to make their run a pig stye with lots of the wrong microbes.

if you start out right you can have a flock that is low maintenance, low drama. I think it is worth it but it takes faith as the beginning stages take work before you start seeing a return and it's tempting to cut corners or put off doing it right till later. problems are much harder to cure than prevent.

that's my two cents but there are many approaches and opinions, you'll need to measure and balance them all as best you can. most of all, have fun!

 

[BantyChooks]

You have to remember that people don't post on BYC when everything is going perfectly, they post when something goes wrong. Proper management, adequate space, good feed, appropriate breed choices---these are things that go a long way towards having a healthy flock, and you should have few issues especially if you only have a few birds. Read as many posts as you can by @Beekissed and follow her management suggestions.

If it seems overwhelming, what I'd do is find an experienced neighbour or friend to mentor you, and only listen to them. They've kept birds alive and laying, their advice can't be that terrible. Then as you gain confidence you can research, change your methods if you want, and eventually become independent in their care. If you don't live in a place with many bird keepers, then I guess you're stuck with us.

One thing I now recommend to every single person is to have a plan for euthanasia. Your birds will die someday, and unfortunately a quiet death in their sleep doesn't happen all the time. You owe it to them to have a way out so that they aren't forced to die slowly from some terrible injury or disease in case the worst happens. Me, I had my neighbour shoot them until I was confident enough to do it myself. Nasty part of chickens, I know, but IMO it's one that ought to be considered at the start. Don't let me pee on your parade, , just be aware that this might happen.

Good luck, and I really hope you decide to get chickens! They are such a joy.

 

[Chickylove12]

I highly recommend starting out right, get it all set up well in advance of the chicks arriving, wait till it's not freezing outside and when you get the chicks get them straight out to the coop, skip the indoor brooding part, I find that is where a lot of issues start. a mother heating pad set up is the best brooder, you can do a search to find the thread with all the details. they really do benefit from lots of fresh outside air, but buffeted from draft. the only time I brood inside is for our kids, it's definitely not necessary for the chicks, as long as they have a heat source to go to, they manage to regulate their temperature quite well, running out and eating and drinking and frolicking as desired.

As for the coop, get a metal can for the food, frame out the coop and apply hardware cloth, NOT poultry netting. keeping out the vermin cuts down on disease and predation. make a covered run, envelope the coop and run with hardware cloth, even on the floor if you can, mending the seams every 3-4" with thick black zip ties for anywhere they will be under ground and using fencing staples/U-nails every 3-4" for the above ground part where it gets attached to the posts. I place the posts at about 43-44" centers so you can overlap at the seams a couple of inches, the hardware cloth/fencing comes in 48" sections, get the the thicker gauge with 1"x1/2" spacing. you can use a 3" long screw and a washer at an angle every three feet or so on each side/post to get the fencing taught, then nail it down with the U-nails/fencing staples, then remove the screws and move them another several feed and repeat. it takes considerable effort to do the hardware cloth right but it is the single most valuable place to spend your money and time to avoid future headaches. the door way framing and door should not have any more than a half inch gap, this is the size of an adult female rat, if you can keep them out, you will avoid the problems that come with a rat population explosion. for the floor, you can dig down about 8" before laying the hardware cloth, then once it's placed and mended, cover it back up with dirt, this will be the base for your hens litter. look up the deep litter method, I highly recommend it. no need to be constantly mucking out the coop, the aim is to create a good micro biome that is aerobic, doesn't smell or harbor disease. over cleanliness can actually lead to unbalanced micro-biology and increase the need for antibiotics. after you have the whole coop framed and enveloped in hardware cloth, I recommend putting a roof on top, chickens do not benefit from rain, it only stands to make their run a pig stye with lots of the wrong microbes.

if you start out right you can have a flock that is low maintenance, low drama. I think it is worth it but it takes faith as the beginning stages take work before you start seeing a return and it's tempting to cut corners or put off doing it right till later. problems are much harder to cure than prevent.

that's my two cents but there are many approaches and opinions, you'll need to measure and balance them all as best you can. most of all, have fun!

Thankyou very very much for the detailed response. Oh yes..I will not cut any corners and in fact will have a coop way WAAAAY in advance before any chickens. I have read about the deep litter method as well as unmanifactured sand ..I was thinking a solid floor..wood..up off the ground with linoneum and either pine shavings or sand?

 

[Chickylove12]

I highly recommend starting out right, get it all set up well in advance of the chicks arriving, wait till it's not freezing outside and when you get the chicks get them straight out to the coop, skip the indoor brooding part, I find that is where a lot of issues start. a mother heating pad set up is the best brooder, you can do a search to find the thread with all the details. they really do benefit from lots of fresh outside air, but buffeted from draft. the only time I brood inside is for our kids, it's definitely not necessary for the chicks, as long as they have a heat source to go to, they manage to regulate their temperature quite well, running out and eating and drinking and frolicking as desired.

As for the coop, get a metal can for the food, frame out the coop and apply hardware cloth, NOT poultry netting. keeping out the vermin cuts down on disease and predation. make a covered run, envelope the coop and run with hardware cloth, even on the floor if you can, mending the seams every 3-4" with thick black zip ties for anywhere they will be under ground and using fencing staples/U-nails every 3-4" for the above ground part where it gets attached to the posts. I place the posts at about 43-44" centers so you can overlap at the seams a couple of inches, the hardware cloth/fencing comes in 48" rolls, get the the thicker gauge with 1"x1/2" spacing. you can use a 3" long screw and a washer at an angle every three feet or so on each side/post to get the fencing taught, then nail it down with the U-nails/fencing staples, then remove the screws and move them another several feet and repeat. it takes considerable effort to do the hardware cloth right but it is the single most valuable place to spend your money and time to avoid future headaches. the door way framing and door should not have any more than a half inch gap, this is the size of an adult female rat's head, if you can keep them out, you will avoid the problems that come with a rat population explosion. if you build to keep rats out, you can keep everything else out. for the floor, you can dig down about 8" before laying the hardware cloth, then once it's placed and mended, cover it back up with dirt, this will be the base for your hens litter. look up the deep litter method, I highly recommend it. no need to be constantly mucking out the coop, the aim is to create a good micro biome that is aerobic, doesn't smell or harbor disease. over cleanliness can actually lead to unbalanced micro-biology and increase the need for antibiotics. after you have the whole coop framed and enveloped in hardware cloth, I recommend putting a roof on top, chickens do not benefit from rain, it only stands to make their run a pig stye with lots of the wrong microbes.

if you start out right you can have a flock that is low maintenance, low drama. I think it is worth it but it takes faith as the beginning stages take work before you start seeing a return and it's tempting to cut corners or put off doing it right till later. problems are much harder to cure than prevent.

that's my two cents but there are many approaches and opinions, you'll need to measure and balance them all as best you can. most of all, have fun!

 

[Chickylove12]

Would u mind posting some photos of your coop?

 

[BantyChooks]

Thankyou for your response and your tips. I am definetly researching and reading long before I even build a coop. I want to ensure they will be getting the best care. A little apprehensive about free range as there is seven acres of woods around me. Would love to let them free range for a period in the day when i am out there...however my presence may not detour a coyotee or a hawk. Will want a chicken mansion and a really big covered run though.

What Eggcessive said. Yes, free ranging does make them more accessible to predators, but they are SO much healthier in the long run. There is no such thing as a big enough run, really, unless you have a large and movable one, in which case it might work. Things you are worried about like lice and worms are much more prevalent when they are kept 'cooped'. Some say they pick up lice from free ranging; I say that's

.
I have quite a few hawks around. The birds got smart after a few attacks and now I rarely lose any except for the dummy crested breeds. No more of them for me. I have anywhere from 5--15 cocks/cockerels in my flock during summer and they make quite a nice team for ensuring that every predator is spotted and warned against.

Dogs are the worst predator for me. Thanks to a neighbour, I had a few years where I could not free range unless I wanted them to all be dead in a day. Thank goodness he moved away and took his pack of howling untrained killers with him.

Free ranging is nerve racking at first. We have hawks, raccoons, coyotes, foxes, possums, and stray dogs and cats. I have lost a few over the years, but I could never deprive them of getting out every day to explore and forage. I am home mostly, but when I would first go off for a few hours, I would be nervous. Most predators will not be a problem if they are locked up in a secure coop from dusk until daylight. Hawks are more of a problem with young chicks and bantams, but I had one decapitated by a twosome that ganged up on a half blind polish hen.

Things like flystrike can be avoided if you can make sure that soiled vents are cleaned up, and any wounds are found early. I have never seen it ever, but in warm climates where flies are a problem, it happens.

Thankyou for your reassurance..I have had my heart set on getting them and planning out a proper coop and run..then yikes..started reading about things like flystrike..and worms...and had a vision of an infestation that cant be avoided. It is reassuring to hear that it does not have to be a disaster with proper care. I am someone who does in fact struggle with an anxiety disorder..but I love chickens soooo much and really would love a flock to enjoy and care for.

I have owned probably 200 birds by now. I have had exactly one case of fly strike, and that was a freak thing. She had a poopy rear that I didn't see because I didn't handle her much. She was a bit of a loner, poor thing.