is my deep litter too dry?

Ok, I thought Deep litter just meant putting in a lot of shavings. OOOOhhhh no. I am wrong about something again!!?????? You mean it's SUPPOSED to have globs of poo everywhere getting mixed and mashed into dust? Here I've been scooping it all out once a month and starting fresh! Oh Bother! Just when I think I'm the "chicken queen" somebody kicks my crown.
 
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It's whatever you want it to be...

"Litter" is a mix of bedding and manure. Deep Litter or Built Up Litter means just letting it all build up to avoid having to muck it out continuously, yet it can be managed many different ways. Some maintain it dry, some maintain it with a little moisture to help it break down, some maintain it on an earthen base so that the moisture and bacteria from the ground can help break it down from underneath, some use droppings boards to get some of the manure and moisture out. For some it may be mostly manure, and for others there may be loads of bedding.

It's whatever you make of it and whatever you feel comfortable with.
 
Wow...not to hijack the thread...but I am having the exact opposite issue...I use DLM with straw and my straw almost feels damp, I have a dirt flood underneath and there is lots of ventilation but its been really cold here the last month or so. So again for the second time in 2 weeks I am taking out all the straw and tossing it out o put fresh stuff in....still can't find shavings here.

I wish my issue was too dry....Its making me want to move somewhere warmer with less snow...lol....
 
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Ema - I was the original poster, When I used straw it was so messy and DID clump up and seemed to get really gross and sort of damp like you say. It was much much more difficult to clean out than the shavings are. Now I use shavings. I thought it was too dry but I guess I'm all good! It took about 4 months to start to actually smell like poop, which was when I shoveled out half and added a bunch fresh.

If anyone was wondering the climate I live in, it's San Diego dry and warm - even right now in the winter!
 
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We often wonder and sometimes get tired of asking. Why don't you put something in your profile telling us? Even "Southern California" means a lot. Answers to so many questions depend partly on location, climate, etc.
 
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Ema - I was the original poster, When I used straw it was so messy and DID clump up and seemed to get really gross and sort of damp like you say. It was much much more difficult to clean out than the shavings are. Now I use shavings. I thought it was too dry but I guess I'm all good! It took about 4 months to start to actually smell like poop, which was when I shoveled out half and added a bunch fresh.

If anyone was wondering the climate I live in, it's San Diego dry and warm - even right now in the winter!

yes I am beginning to see exactly what you mean with the use of straw :-( I think when I got out of town I might stock up on shavings lol....
 
I use the pine shaving DLM too. I have a 16x12 enclosed coop. My litter is about 12" in the winter and about 3" in the summer. I use about 5-6 bails at $4.99, per from tractor supply. I change it out about 4 times a year. I usually add a bag of pulltertized stable lime when things get stinky. I will use DE instead if I can find it.



Works great for me and my girls.
 
Deep litter bedding should be neither too wet, nor too dry: http://www.thepoultrysite.com/articles/388/litter-quality-and-broiler-performance

"Excess moisture in the litter increases the incidence of breast blisters, skin burns, scabby areas, bruising, condemnations and downgrades. The wetter the litter, the more likely it will promote the proliferation of pathogenic bacteria and molds. Wet litter is also the primary cause of ammonia emissions, one of the most serious performance and environmental factors affecting broiler production today. Controlling litter moisture is the most important step in avoiding ammonia problems.
...
Litter that is too dry and dusty can also lead to problems such as dehydration of new chicks, respiratory disease and increased condemnations. Ideally, litter moisture should be maintained between 20 to 25 percent. A good rule of thumb in estimating litter moisture content is to squeeze a handful of litter. If it adheres tightly and remains in a ball, it is too wet. If it adheres slightly, it has the proper moisture content. If it will not adhere at all, it may be too dry. "

You want the poo/feather bits/etc. to become part of a living micro-ecosystem, not rot in an excess of water, and not become an airborne pathogen in dust.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Plamodon explains the disease fighting and nutritional benefits of deep litter, and says "Deep litter must be combined with a fresh-air poultry house.": http://www.plamondon.com/faq_deep_litter.html

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Another good description of how deep bedding works: http://www.microecofarming.com/html/10-backyard chicken coop.htm

"- Look for the deep litter to start becoming a living, decomposing, composting organism that absorbs manure rather quickly. At this point, only add more dry matter when manure seems to build up too much.

- Now, the deep decomposing bedding begins to feed the chickens with organisms living within the debris which include beneficial fungi, slugs, worms, pill bugs, earwigs and other insects, beneficial microbes and soil pro-biotics. Further, when chicken coops have flooring that's deep and living, they're fed throughout the winter because the action of the decomposition makes the deep litter stay warm in winter to keeps chickens fed and more comfortable.

- Go ahead and toss the crushed oyster shell over the top of the litter. Other chicken foods such as kitchen scraps, fresh greens, sprouted grains, dropped orchard fruits, garden leftovers and so on can be tossed on top as well. These get the chickens scratching and add to the litter itself. Just realize these are considered "wet" components as is the chicken manure, only not as hot. You don't want more wet than dry. So, watch closely to make sure your initial deep dry litter is in balance to create the living composting situation you want vs. a wet and messy chicken coop floor. If need be, you can add more dry matter anytime."
 
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Sure, that is certainly the old timey way to do it -- just be aware of two things, 1) it is more apt to mold so you have to keep a sharp eye on how things are behaving, and 2) unless you are using *chopped* straw, which hardly anyone ever does, it is much much harder to turn and will tend to quickly mat into impenetrable plate-like layers. To some extent you can just forget about turning the litter and simply keep layering fresh stuff on top as needed, but it will stink like you won't BELIEVE when you eventually have to clean it out, also is HARD to clean out that way, compared to shavings.

GOod luck, have fun,

Pat

Also if you use hay and then throw it on your garden you'll get alot of unwelcome weed seeds sprouting. Not as much of a concern if you use straw.
 

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