is there such a thing as to clean?

graciesmum

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I would like people's opinions, I have read alot of posts on here about cleaning out coops, and from what I can gather a few people think that you shouldn't be to clean, so please tell me what your cleaning schedule is, and what you think, is there such thing as to clean????
 
Depends upon where you live, your coop and run construction, AND the health history of your flock. I live on an acre of sand in the desert. Organisms, good and bad, don't last long in a dry environment. I use deep litter and do NOT clean the pens, all of which have sand floors built on the original sand on my acre. I've shoveled a few out once in ten years WHEN my neighbor's irrigation water spilled into my acre and flooded two pens. My grow-out pen is 16 feet x 16 feet but only half of the pen has a corrugated metal roofing. The other half of the roof is wire and the rain hits the pen's floors and makes a damp spot. But we only get 9 inches of rain on average, most during the summer "monsoons," and it has only averaged 3 inches per year the past two or three seasons.

All of my sand-floored pens get a yearly raking to remove manure clumps and feathers. I do not sift the sand; I don't have to. My sand is deep and the dried droppings are a true deep litter system. Any droppings that hit the floor dry up immediately. All of my waterers are on the outside of the pens. The clumps under the roosts are raked around the pen weekly, or added to my compost pile IF I need some more nitrogen. My flock hasn't had any health issues that would ensure my pens need a more thorough cleaning. I do clean the brooder pens out after the chicks hit the floor of the brooder pen. That is usually a good scraping of the dried droppings off of the hardware cloth floor--nothing more. The brooders have wire sides even though they are INSIDE the brooder coop. I do put up shade cloth on the wire on the outside of the brooders to keep drafts off the chicks. Next year's chicks will simply be added to those four brooders when the chicks arrive. No disinfection, no fuss, no worries. The chicks get their immune system challenged as soon as they hit the brooder or brooder pen floors. I have had very few, if any, losses past four weeks of age, which is when I transfer them to the coop floor.

I do disinfect my water containers on a weekly basis or when they need it. I use enclosed PVC feeders for the adult birds; growing chicks get their feed in covered feeders AFTER they've learned HOW to eat from open dishes. My feeders get a weekly disinfection also--usually with bleach in a large container then rinsed well and dried in the sun for an hour or two. Same for the waterers.

That's MY situation, and I don't know what yours is. But I can guess that you are NOT in a dry region. You probably have dampness to contend with and rain. THAT would change my recommendation to you. You probably need to clean regularly under your roosts so you don't have a build-up of ammonia. If you have had health issues that might be contagious, then you MUST disinfect and clean your brooders, roosts, and pens the best you can. One trick I learned as a racing pigeon fancier was to use a butane gas torch (like plumber's use) to torch the wood surfaces of my racing pigeon perches. Might work in your case for your roosts or coop walls. Keep the flame in contact with the wood JUST long enough to scorch any organisms (or mites) that could be on those surfaces. Don't burn your coop down, however. And I need to add a chuckle here, as I had a friend who DID burn his racing pigeon loft down. So caution is my advice. Or you can simply use a disinfectant designed for ALL surfaces, but more particularly for the type of surfaces you have in your coop.

Best advice I can give--if you have issues, clean. If you don't, clean as required by your weather and in keeping with your personal philosophy.

Shannon
 
Thank you lol, I don't have any issues so far, im just after different people's ideas, and like you say as it depends on where you are from, I am interested in different climates and how that affects cleaning, im in the UK, I have a 6ft by 5ft shed converted, I have it stood on a concrete plinth, on the floor I have lino then about 3 inches of sand, I rake and pick up poop daily, my girls have roosts but don't use them (ex battery girls) my nests I scoop the poop daily and fluff the straw, and once a week I throw straw out and disinfect boxes then put clean straw in, my PVC waterers and feeders I bring in every nite and wash in anti bacterial washing up liquid, my teenage coop is a coop with run that was store bought, again I scoop poop daily, and clean and disinfect weekly, I also move the coop around to change where it sits, my girls free range in an area that is 44ft by 22ft, the teenage coop is in this area also, it is mostly gravel, but there is a banking that is dirt and weeds, that my girls love to hide in and forage for bugs when it has rained, like I say just after a few different people's experiences really
 
graciesmum -- Sounds like you are "spot on" with that cleaning regimen where you live. No need to change a thing, in my estimation. Bravo! Well done! And all that rubbish. Did I sound like one of your neighbor's with all that British slang? LOL.

Shannon
 
I look at cleaning from the point of view that your goal is to:
1. Keep ammonia out of the coop
2. Keep poop generated at night on the poop trays (which are filled with PDZ – zeolite) and remove it daily
3. I use chopped hay (horse forage) mix on the floor and turn and stir it daily. I change it out once a year. It is 6 inches deep
4. Keep the worst of the poop raked up and out of the run and onto the compost pile daily
5. Keep things as dry as possible

I live in New England where the weather changes daily. We can go from rain at 60 deg. F to sunny at 90 deg F. in the course of 2 days. I sprinkle PDZ – zeolite on the hay mix. The PDZ absorbes ammonia and also keeps things dry.
If I keep at it daily I can do my 3 coops in 30 minutes – including feeding and watering. If I go away for a weekend it only takes perhaps 15 minutes extra to clean. I scrape my roost bars (2 x 3 inch placed with the 3” side up) daily and sand them when necessary (maybe once or twice a year).

Since to me pictures are worth a thousand words I have included an inside picture of my big coop below. These pictures were taken in the winter.



 
graciesmum -- Sounds like you are "spot on" with that cleaning regimen where you live. No need to change a thing, in my estimation. Bravo! Well done! And all that rubbish.  Did I sound like one of your neighbor's with all that British slang? LOL.

Shannon

Thank you lol, not all British are like that lol I don't think I have ever said bravo lmao
 
Must be the British movies of the '40s that influenced me, linguistically speaking. Or as my Canadian father would say, "eh?" I know James Bond doesn't talk like that. I wonder why?
 
Just one quick comment, I'd be careful what you are using to disinfect your coop. In my opinion, some cleaners are more harmful to the health of my family, pets and chickens than whatever it is you are trying to clean. I also live in a dry environment where the chicken poop becomes mostly desicated and almost odor-free, so I my experience may be limited by that. However, while I wash out my waterers the way I'd wash out my family dishes (dish soap and hot water) I'd hesitate to use the word "disinfect". Same with my weekly cleaning routine. I remove and dump the poop-slide arrangement under the roosts of the coop, scoop up whatever large clumps there are around on the floor and then add some fresh bedding and perhaps a bit of diatomacious earth to kill any external parasites in the bedding (we're blessed not to have many here, but I figure it doesn't hurt to be careful). My coop only gets a full cleaning twice a year. Once in the spring and once in the fall, where I remove all the bedding, scrub down the roosts and do a quick spray of bleach water around the inside, doing any additional scrubbing that seems necessary. The only loses I"ve suffered were one hen to sour crop and one to a prolapse. I doubt either was hygene related.
 

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