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- #11
- Jun 20, 2013
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If I don't add water it drops down to 21-23%...we have pretty low humidity in Az..
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I think, hopefully one of the more experienced dry hatchers will chime in, that some of them run their humidity that low until lockdown and just keep on eye on the weight/air cell. Might be worth looking into. I figure even if my meter is 20% off I'm still at 20-25% so I'm good...lolIf I don't add water it drops down to 21-23%...we have pretty low humidity in Arizona.
The humidity should be fine for most breeds. Some like lower--Marans and other thick shelled eggs. The best thing to do is to either weigh them and figure out average weight loss or use an egg cell development chart.
I have three in mine as well. Not taking any chances! lol Do you find the thermometer on the bator accurate compared to your others?
The thermometer you are using does not read tenths.
If the thermometer does not measure in tenths, and only reads in whole numbers you can be off by a degree, not a tenth.There is really little reason nor a necessity to measure down to 1/10 of a degree... Sure it can't hurt but it's simply not necessary, as long as you are holding about 100° give or take a degree or two you will be fine, trust me broody birds don't hold it exactly perfect within a tenth of a degree and that is what we are trying to mimic... Also remember it's the internal egg temp that is important, not the air temp... My home built incubator swings quite a bit 'air temp' wise but after extensive 'fake egg' temp monitoring and testing I know it holds the eggs almost at a dead on 99.5° internal egg temp regardless of whatever the air temp is at at any instant...
I have found a good cheap easy to source thermometer is the floating glass one from Walmart in the fish department, it's only a few bucks and because it has steel ballast beads it doesn't jump all over the place as fast and provides a more 'average' air temp over the last few minutes as you don't really need 'instant' air temp monitoring...
Ignore the online price, this same one is under $2 in the store... http://www.walmart.com/ip/Hagen-Marina-Deluxe-Floating-Thermometer-with-Suction-Cup/19229649
If the thermometer does not measure in tenths, and only reads in whole numbers you can be off by a degree, not a tenth.
Chicken eggs need to be +- 1 degree from 99.5 on average to hatch correctly. 99 could be 99.0 to 99.9. 100 could be 100.9 but since the thermometer and be off by 3 degrees, it would be in the kill zone and you would not know it.
One has to understand that thermometer accuracy, resolution and calibration are three entirely different things...
Just because a thermometer resolves to 1/10th degree does not mean it's accurate to 1/10 a degree, especially if it's not properly calibrated realistically it could be off by much more...
And just because a thermometer only resolves to full degrees does not mean it will be off by full degrees or more, if properly calibrated it could be +/- 0.5 degree for a digital and even better for an analog one if you estimate the location of the mercury between the lines...
Yes, the big IF the thermometer is off it could be a problem, and that holds true for any thermometer regardless of manufactures claims thus the reason it's always best to use multiple thermometers and verify their accuracy... I see that AccuRite claims a +/- 3° in the temp range we use, but having used one for many years now I know full well mine is no where near +/- 3° off at any time, at most it might be 1° off, but I have never even seen it measure +/- 1° vs the others in the incubator it's always been dead on...
Yes, the one you posted is very accurate, but I guess we will have to beg to differ on whether you need that level of accuracy or not, especially for chickens...