Just bought a bunch of problem pullets. What should we do?

[JRNash]

It kills me every time I think about battery cages.

 

[21hens-incharge]

I know it is hard to resist the Chickie's.

Just thinking that with the existing issues you may want to start planning a coop expansion.

It would be wrong of us to lead you to believe that it will be all sunshine and roses given that many of us have had the overcrowding issue at least once.

Learn from others mistakes. Life hurts less that way.

 

[aart]

When I was researching....
Coop = 4sq ft per bird
Run = 10sq ft per bird
14 sq ft per bird = minimum as it's been said, more space the better

Yes, bare minimum.....and are separate for coop and run, not combined
The biggest run will not make up for a crowded coop.

 

[JaeG]

If you are doubling your run size it sounds like a good amount of space for 9 chickens. It's likely, given the conditions you describe, that the chicks weren't being fed properly. Low protein intake can lead to chicks taking to each other, feather picking which can lead to bloodshed. I'd really bump up their protein intake with cooked mince, scrambled eggs, and see if that makes a difference. Same thing happened to my Mum who wasn't impressed by the conditions at the breeders, but, like you, she'd driven a long way to pick them up.

 

[brucifer]

OP, unless you're simply overwhelmed, don't get rid of any of the birds just yet. You need to fix things for them first from your end. It seems like you were and are still trying to do the right thing by taking on this new flock, but as the old saying goes, "No good deed goes unpunished."

It is somewhat surprising that chickens from your new flock are attacking each other unless they were not kept together at the place where you got them. I've allowed flocks that I keep in separate coops to free range together, and the flocks usually stay segregated by choice in the free-range area, and they remain content flockmates in each respective flock. The members of each flock will seek out the companionship of the chickens with whom they are familiar. Major aggression usually happens from the outside each flock, not from within.

That being said, cramming two separate flocks into one small coop is a recipe for trouble. That's just too much tension and stress for all the birds. You can get away with packing too many birds into a small coop for awhile if you have a large run AND if the birds all know each other and have the pecking order worked out, but combining two flocks into one coop (even a large coop) is problematic.

It's good to hear that you're going to expand your run space. That's where I would start if I were faced with your situation. However, integration can take some time to get established. Is there any way you can make a temporary coop for the newcomers, and perhaps even a separate coop cage for a bully to sleep in at night?

 

[JaeG]

This is an excellent article explaining all the ins and outs of designing your coop and run:
http://naturalchickenkeeping.blogspot.co.nz/2013/04/how-much-coop-and-run-space-do-i-need.html

When you do eventually integrate your two flocks I've always had great success keeping them side by side for awhile, then adding the new comers at night, once it's dark, to the roosts so that everyone wakes up and starts the day together. I am lucky in that I do seem to have particularly docile birds and breeds so I've never had too many problems integrating new birds.

 

[lhgrappler]

When I was researching....
Coop = 4sq ft per bird
Run = 10sq ft per bird
14 sq ft per bird = minimum as it's been said, more space the better

Whoa! I have no idea how, but I had it in my head that in an open coop it was 2sq ft each. Oops, must have read too many articles about too many things in one night. Instead of making the young'uns a temporary coop in the new run, I'll just build a permanent.

Integrating the flocks is not my concern at the moment though, I'm just trying to figure out how to get these ones that have been together since the beginning to get along with each other. They were all in one very over crowded space together.

If you are doubling your run size it sounds like a good amount of space for 9 chickens. It's likely, given the conditions you describe, that the chicks weren't being fed properly. Low protein intake can lead to chicks taking to each other, feather picking which can lead to bloodshed. I'd really bump up their protein intake with cooked mince, scrambled eggs, and see if that makes a difference. Same thing happened to my Mum who wasn't impressed by the conditions at the breeders, but, like you, she'd driven a long way to pick them up.

Yes! There were a LOT of half-naked pullets (couldn't write chicks there lol)
We did treat them with Poultry Protector as though they had mites, even though I didn't see any. Then we saw the pecking, and the bullies have eaten feathers.
I will see if more protein helps.



Thanks for all the info everyone

 

[aart]

2sq ft each

That is a common 'rule of thumb' out there, it's in many chicken books and websites.
It can work, but often does not.

Your case may take longer to 'cure'....but at ~10 weeks old the aggression 'habit' is probably not too instilled as of yet. Give them lots of space, some high protein(20-22%) chick starter, and places for the bullied to 'hide'.

 

[lazy gardener]

In addition to an established problem (I'm guessing) with cannibalism/aggression with these new birds, when moving them to a new flock dynamic, that has released the ugly pecking order demon in all of them. So, they are scrambling to re-establish that pecking order. I would up the protein, and do absolutely what ever it takes to give them the needed and recommended space in both coop and run. Even if you do a temporary measure. You could knock something together pretty quickly with pallets. granted, it would be ugly, but it would get the job done. I would also increase their protein: multi flock, with oyster shell on the side, and give them a daily serving of animal protein. Also, be sure they have plenty of opportunities to engage in chicken behavior: give them a deep litter to work in their run. Be sure the run is equipped with multi level areas, and out of sight but no dead end areas. Finally, if you see a main aggressor or two, remove her, out of sight for a few days/or a week, and if that doesn't fix her 'tude, cull her.

 

[JRNash]

Idle beaks are the devils workshop