Just insulating the nesting box area?

Just a though and Im not sure how hot they get but I wonder if the reptile heated mats would work well in a nest box. I know they come in many different sizes also. May be something to check into.
 
So from what I'm reading, make it as draft free as possible, make sure they have a high calorie food, a wide enough perch, ventilation, non-frozen water, and don't worry about frozen eggs!? I'm in northern Wisconsin and its my first year too. My coop isn't amazing but i did protect it from the north west winds and am planning on covering the run. I just feel bad for them. They are so used to running around and eating grass. And they don't sit next to each other in the roost to keep warm. They are all spread out. Hope they figure that out. I think I have clicks and social ostracizing happening in my flock of 6.
 
This will be my second winter with chickens. I don't have any insulation and they've been just fine, eggs too. On the coldest of days I use a heat lamp (red) at night but that's not often. So far so good!
 
Hi there,
Hokum Coco has some good info there. I would adopt the 'wait & see' policy. You don't have a problem yet... and maybe you won't. How big is your coop? 12 hens in a relatively confined space will generate quite a lot of heat (& moisture). For this winter, try deep litter, it really does help keep the temp. up. Put a thermometer in the coop. You know, hens can tolerate quite low temps. - as for the eggs freezing, check the coop more frequently in winter if possible. Sue
 
I saw this and thought it might help if it was put under the nest box? I'm going to try it this winter on my dog's water dish. http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2011/11/make-cookie-tin-waterer-heater-under-10.html

I also saw this that I thought would be good. Granted these are both regarding water but if they create enough heat to keep water from freezing, maybe they would keep eggs from freezing?

Here's how we kept our waterer from freezing during the coldest spells in the winter:

We set it in a flower pot "saucer" or base, which in turn sits on top of a large, upside-down flower pot. A light bulb or similar heating element is mounted underneath. Regular and/or paving bricks are stacked around the bottom to keep anything from touching (i.e. maintaining an adequate air gap between heating element and pot top/sides), and allow routing of the power cord in the gaps beneath it all. You'll obvously want to use terra cotta or ceramic components throughout (no plastic or other meltable/flamable materials). A ceiling chain acts as a safety to help keep your most rambunctious boarders from tipping it over during any coop squabbles. A thermostatic power source (e.g. "thermocube", or similar) can be used to automatically shut off power to the heat source in warmer weather.


I like this design because the saucer and overturned flower pot will catch and/or deflect any spilled water away from the heating souce, helping prevent short circuits and fires. Still have to be careful with any bedding or other flamable material that could work its way up into the hot interior through any gaps or etc., creating a possible fire hazard.

66725_chicken_coop_cleaning_05-30-11_005.jpg

66725_chicken_coop_cleaning_05-30-11_010.jpg
 
My nest boxes are on the outside of the coop on the side that faces south. The coop itself is double walled... the nest boxes are just 3/8 inch plywood. In the summer, they are shaded by trees above, in the winter, they get a lot of sun. I chose a dark color for the coop to soak up heat in the winter.







During the winter, they are actually the warmest part of the coop mid day and actually heat the coop... and at night, the airspace between the inner and outer walls provides a good insulating barrier.

Here's a shot of the inside and outside temps of the coop on January 3rd. Below freezing outside... 40 degrees inside.




Also, keep in mind... the chickens will take turns laying eggs... so, they will get warmed up during the day by other hens.
 
I have a friend who had insulation blown into the cavity in her walls. The contractors had a problem in her bedroom and so there is one corner in her bedroom that is always colder than the rest of her house except summer when it is warmer. We live in an area of the country where houses are not heated for much of the year and yet most of her house is warmer than that one spot. So I do think insulating can help. If the heat (from the chickens) is radiating from all surfaces and the wind moves past that wall then the convection currents around the walls help heat be lost quicker. Yes it is true if you have an open window or vent heat is lost quicker in that area, but that does not mean none is lost elsewhere. If the wind is removed from the warm surface (by providing an insulating jacket) less is lost through convection. The insulation layer also helps with preventing loss through radiation.

That being said though, I see pictures and posts all the time of people with unheated/uninsulated coops in very bitter climates and they say their chickens are just fine so I would also suggest if it ain't broke don't fix it.
 
This was a very interesting and enjoyable read, made me think a lot. I had the same questions in my head since it's my 1st time with chickens too. I know now what I'm going to do know, I won't worry unless I have problems.

BTW, can anyone tell me if frozen eggs taste any different after being cooked than freshly laid warm eggs? If so, is it considerably worst tasting or just different taste?
I guess I could pop a few eggs in the freezer and see for myself, but maybe someone could save me the trouble. Are frozen eggs like horrible or something?
 
I can't tell a difference in taste between frozen and unfrozen. Even when the egg is fried in a pan for sunny side up or over easy....taste just fine.


Wen they freeze, they split open, so I wash them well while still frozen, and use that same day, or I put them in the freezer to use later.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom