Keeping Chickens Free Range

Well that's rather disappointing to know
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I am adding 2 Wyandottes this fall. I have heard some say they can be mean, especially when adding new chicks, but I've also heard some thaey are nice chickens so I'm hoping mine turn out to be the latter. I am adding 1 Golden Laced Wyandotte, 1 Silver Laced Wyandotte, 1 Partridge Rock, 1 Speckled Sussex, and 1 free chick, don't know the breed. Of course since the other 2 are more mild breeds, or at least the Sussex is, I am sure the Wyandottes may indeed be at the top of the pecking order but I am hoping that by being new chicks themselves and being integrated in they won't be bullies as opposed to getting them first and adding new chicks. I likely won't be adding more after these so that shouldn't be a problem. I hope they behave. I'm actually worried about the newbies getting picked on. None of mine are mean anymore but never know.

That's an easy fix....just don't add them. Yes, they can be mean and it doesn't matter when you add them to what flock, they will remain mean and develop into being even more mean. I've heard it more about the silver Wyandotte's and less about the Golden laced variety, so you could just skip the silver and keep the gold.

What you need to ask yourself is, what are your goals for your flock? New flock owners tend to get this or that breed on a whim, because they are pretty or they heard they lay this or that type of egg, etc., but then they experience bullying in the flock, poor laying, too much or too little broodiness, etc.

Before adding breeds, try to study up on them first and see if they have all the traits you want to deal with each and every day, but go beyond that even and decide if you want your flock to have to deal with their traits or not...and then choose compatible breeds, gentle breeds, etc., weeding out as you go along, until you have developed a flock you don't have to worry about when you get new chicks and need to integrate them.
 
That's an easy fix....just don't add them.  Yes, they can be mean and it doesn't matter when you add them to what flock, they will remain mean and develop into being even more mean.   I've heard it more about the silver Wyandotte's and less about the Golden laced variety, so you could just skip the silver and keep the gold. 

What you need to ask yourself is, what are your goals for your flock?  New flock owners tend to get this or that breed on a whim, because they are pretty or they heard they lay this or that type of egg, etc., but  then they experience bullying in the flock, poor laying, too much or too little broodiness, etc. 

Before adding breeds, try to study up on them first and see if they have all the traits you want to deal with each and every day, but go beyond that even and decide if you want your flock to have to deal with their traits or not...and then choose compatible breeds, gentle breeds, etc., weeding out as you go along, until you have developed a flock you don't have to worry about when you get new chicks and need to integrate them. 


Thanks! Unfortunately I already placed the order just over 2 weeks ago, although I could always cancel it or rehome the Wyandottes if they become too mean.

My first flock I got then for pets and egg layers and I actually considered these breeds last year but they were sold out so I got barred rock, orpingtons, australorps, and EEs instead. Admittedly I added these for looks, because they're all gorgeous imo, as well as for the Sussex's reputation for being extremely friendly.

I did do research when I got my first birds on both the breeds I got and ones I'm adding and heard different things. In fact, part of the reason I didn't initially add the Wyandottes, besides them being sold out, was because what I had read was about 50/50 being mean or being nice and I wasn't sure I wanted to risk it. But then this time I didn't really research them again and since found some people saying theirs are nice so I figured I would try it. I wanted to add BLRW too but they were out. Admittedly it's probably a bit stupid but I can always rehome them if they turn out poorly. I definitely don't want birds to be stressed out but I've had good luck with Meyer so far so my hope is that even if they aren't necessarily nicest in the flock and turn out to be top hens or whatever that they at least are not bullies and won't stress the flock out. I guess I'll find out.

I'm also hoping that with a big new coop and run and more free ranging they might be less likely to be jerks, though of course it could just be a personality trait.

While I don't think I could eat my birds I would have no problem rehoming one if it turned out to be mean, especially as pretty a bird as a Wyandotte.

I really hope they don't turn out nasty.
 
mixed flocks can be a challenge, what I found that worked for us is putting mean ones in isolation from the flock either they behave when allowed back into the flock no more than twice or they go to freezer camp. we didn't have to much of a problem even when we introduced new ones to the flock. Only freezer camp was a mean rooster, had to do isolation three tims though with his hens though once he was gone

I haven't had any trouble with the RIR hens the roosters were a different story though as well as the BR rooster, our meaner hens are the BR but because they are our best brooders they have learned to behave or get isolation which they hate, seems how one was the alpha hen and is now low hen on the totem pole she's on her best behavior.

If you have an established flock I haven't had any trouble with the silver wyandetts in the mixed flock but had year old hens too and they were in the safe pen since 2 days old with barnyard mixes , they seem a little timid compared to the others we have
 
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Thanks!! :)

I did research when I got my first chickens but the problem is it turns into a little bit of information and a lot of opinions. For example, the breed info may say it's supposed to be calm or friendly but lots of people may say theirs is mean so it's kind of hard to tell.

But I currently have 1 Barred Rock, 2 Black Australorps, 3 Buff Orpingtons, and 2 Easter Eggers and the ones I'm adding are a Silver Laced Wyandotte, Golden Laced Wyandotte, Speckled Sussex, and Partridge Rock and a random chick. But the Orpingtons and EEs are supposed to be gentle and easily picked on but mine hold their own. One EE and one Orp appear to be shy and lower on the pecking order but one EE pecks and chases others off (not in a mean way but holds her own) and with food (treats) the Orps and Australorps are right up there chowing down while the Rock and shy EE hold back. And I read Rocks and Australorps can either be really nice or supposedly can be bullies but mine are nice. The Australorps were a tad mean when younger but not at all now and in fact I can't even tell which chicken is head chicken. So I find that research isn't always 100% accurate and can be individual so my hope is that the new chicks all get along and integrate well. I'm building a new, much bigger, coop and run though and may start free ranging again so I'm hoping that might prevent any problems whether it be integration with the big girls or within their little flock. I figure one chicken has to be at the bottom of the pecking order anyway, even with all friendly calm breeds, so I'm hoping they just have normal pecking order stuff and not bullying. I also firmly believe a lot of my issues with my first chicks were from lack of space so I'm going to provide a lot more space and try to prevent that. I hope they aren't bullies cause I've heard they can be nice and get along. My first flock I did a lot of research and went for chickens that were people friendly (able to be pets) as well as good layers and cold harder so wound up with those breeds but admittedly this order I mostly went for looks, as well as the Sussex's reputation for being extremely friendly. Although that said I did want all these breeds when I got my first chicks so I did do research on them then too but yeah, mostly added for looks

Well all the breeds you listed are actually known for good temperaments except the wyandottes. What I would do is set up an introduction pen inside your chicken run with seperate sleeping quarters. Keep your new chicks there from day one. Let them grow where you older hens can see them. I would start letting them mingle around 6 to 8 weeks. If you notice a bully from the bigger ones remove the bully not the chicks. Wait a few days and add the bully back. If still have aggression problems remove said bully again. If you can brood your chicks this way and you can get them integrated while they are young you may have better luck. Also the more you can add at a time the better. If you only add a few at a time they tend to get really picked on. Also your introduction pen can even be a dog crate with a small house inside as long as it's in the run. Hope this helps. :)


mixed flocks can be a challenge, what I found that worked for us is putting mean ones in isolation from the flock either they behave when allowed back into the flock no more than twice or they go to freezer camp. we didn't have to much of a problem even when we introduced new ones to the flock. Only freezer camp was a mean rooster, had to do isolation three tims though with his hens though once he was gone

I haven't had any trouble with the RIR hens the roosters were a different story though as well as the BR rooster, our meaner hens are the BR but because they are our best brooders they have learned to behave or get isolation which they hate, seems how one was the alpha hen and is now low hen on the totem pole she's on her best behavior.

If you have an established flock I haven't had any trouble with the silver wyandetts in the mixed flock but had year old hens too and they were in the safe pen since 2 days old with barnyard mixes , they seem a little timid compared to the others we have

X2 we also isolate bullies. It has seemed to be very effective. We don't cull though. We just rehome. :)
 
mixed flocks can be a challenge, what I found that worked for us is putting mean ones in isolation from the flock either they behave when allowed back into the flock no more than twice or they go to freezer camp. we didn't have to much of a problem even when we introduced new ones to the flock. Only freezer camp was a mean rooster, had to do isolation three tims though with his hens though once he was gone

I haven't had any trouble with the RIR hens the roosters were a different story though as well as the BR rooster, our meaner hens are the BR but because they are our best brooders they have learned to behave or get isolation which they hate, seems how one was the alpha hen and is now low hen on the totem pole she's on her best behavior.

If you have an established flock I haven't had any trouble with the silver wyandetts in the mixed flock but had year old hens too and they were in the safe pen since 2 days old with barnyard mixes , they seem a little timid compared to the others we have


Thanks for the info! It's good to know, and a little relieving, that not everybody has bad luck with the Wyandottes. Though of course I will be extra vigilant for bad behavior and will try that isolation tactic first if I encounter any problems. My flock will be 1 year old October 26th and these guys hatch October 11th so my hope is that since they're little babies being added to an established flock they'll be less likely to be jerks
 
Well all the breeds you listed are actually known for good temperaments except the wyandottes. What I would do is set up an introduction pen inside your chicken run with seperate sleeping quarters. Keep your new chicks there from day one. Let them grow where you older hens can see them. I would start letting them mingle around 6 to 8 weeks. If you notice a bully from the bigger ones remove the bully not the chicks. Wait a few days and add the bully back. If still have aggression problems remove said bully again. If you can brood your chicks this way and you can get them integrated while they are young you may have better luck. Also the more you can add at a time the better. If you only add a few at a time they tend to get really picked on. Also your introduction pen can even be a dog crate with a small house inside as long as it's in the run. Hope this helps. :)
X2 we also isolate bullies. It has seemed to be very effective. We don't cull though. We just rehome. :)


Thanks! I was actually planning on trying that anyway :) my first chicks were in the house until 3 weeks then in the garage until 7 but I'd really like to get these guys integrated sooner. I'm thinking of either brooding in the run from day 1 or possibly keeping them in the garage for a couple days or a week and then moving them to the run. Only reason for that would be to keep a better eye on them and make sure they're okay but that may not be necessary. My hope is that seeing each other from day one will in fact make integration easier. And I might keep their current coop just in case, for any isolation needs. When you isolate do you isolate completely, like out of sight too, or within sight?
 
Interesting about the Wyandotte rep. I had a SLW, and she was a sweetie. My experience is that RIR are downright nasty. I'm also finding that birds with red feathering seem to have similar temperament. Best tempered birds in my flock have been Dominique and EE.
 
Interesting about the Wyandotte rep. I had a SLW, and she was a sweetie. My experience is that RIR are downright nasty. I'm also finding that birds with red feathering seem to have similar temperament. Best tempered birds in my flock have been Dominique and EE.

I'm thinking the current strains of RIR tend to be just that. Those I've raised in the past have been very sweet, almost moochy and pet like, while the two I got a few years back were nigh worthless for anything at all, but particularly didn't have the temperament I'm used to. I've heard that standard bred RIR are sweet like the RIRs of old.

You know what they say about those redheads.....
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Thanks! I was actually planning on trying that anyway :) my first chicks were in the house until 3 weeks then in the garage until 7 but I'd really like to get these guys integrated sooner. I'm thinking of either brooding in the run from day 1 or possibly keeping them in the garage for a couple days or a week and then moving them to the run. Only reason for that would be to keep a better eye on them and make sure they're okay but that may not be necessary. My hope is that seeing each other from day one will in fact make integration easier. And I might keep their current coop just in case, for any isolation needs. When you isolate do you isolate completely, like out of sight too, or within sight?

I actually have a crate in our utility room in the house I use for sick birds, bullys or for any reason really lol. I like to keep them out of site that way when they get out they are to busy with the pecking order to bother the new chicks lol


Interesting about the Wyandotte rep.  I had a SLW, and she was a sweetie.  My experience is that RIR are downright nasty.  I'm also finding that birds with red feathering seem to have similar temperament.  Best tempered birds in my flock have been Dominique and EE.

Our easter eggers are also sweethearts. I've heard rir are known for being aggressive even though their are obvious exceptions.. :)
 
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My RIR isn't nasty, but definitely does not want to be held, nor does the Brahma, but the Australorp squats and let's me pet her and pick her up, and the buff jumps on my lap. The RIR loves to jump on chair backs and will jump on my lap if I have food, but if try to pet her she jumps down quickly. The two BR will squat and let me pet them, and pick them up, and they will jump 4 feet off the ground for raisins or a bit of Apple or bread, they have pretty docile temperaments which is why I'm surprised they peck at the young ones so much, it's been months that they free range together, and housed together, with just a wire fence between them so I thought the integration would have happened already. They're all so pretty. I love all my birds.
 

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