Keeping Meat Rabbits

[EarthView]

I have not bred/kept rabbits for quiet a few years, although I still have all the cages ect. Recently I started to play with the idea of breeding meat rabbits. I have four 24x24 cages, one three stack and one stand alone cage. My plan was to have 1 buck and 1-2 does. I was thinking New Zeland Reds/broken reds. I would breed for show quality, sell the best as show/breeders and the rest go in the freezer. One question I had was if I should have a larger growout cage for the kits or if one litter can be split between two 24x24 cages? The rabbits would be in a small garage that we never have the car in so they would be out of the elements. Any tips, thoughts, and additional information would be great!
Thanks!
-Max

 

[FortCluck]

I watch Living Traditions Homestead on YouTube. They have a ton of information about meat rabbits, I haven't done it yet but we plan to.

Here's their playlist for meat rabbits:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW0m-RUVRO1rCSSLvUvyG45JC4vB6IXeH

 

[AltonaAcres]

I raise Californians. Show rabbits are much different than meat rabbits, so you would spend a lot of money buying quality breeding stock from a rabbit breeder, only to butcher the majority of your rabbit's offspring. Keep in mind a show quality rabbit can cost $150+. Also, show rabbits have much different traits than a good meat rabbit. For example, a rabbit may place high in a meat class (meaning they will make a nice meal), but in the show class they may not even place at all. I would buy rabbits good for meat as opposed to show. You kind of have to choose which you want to breed for. Meat quality or show quality? About the one large cage or two smaller cages for a weaned litter, I would go with the two smaller cages. One for does one for bucks. Also, a 24X24 cage is pretty small for such a large rabbit. My Californians live in cages at least 4 feet x 3 feet. The more room the better. Meat rabbits need exercise. Good luck!

 

[EarthView]

I raise Californians. Show rabbits are much different than meat rabbits, so you would spend a lot of money buying quality breeding stock from a rabbit breeder, only to butcher the majority of your rabbit's offspring. Keep in mind a show quality rabbit can cost $150+. Also, show rabbits have much different traits than a good meat rabbit. For example, a rabbit may place high in a meat class (meaning they will make a nice meal), but in the show class they may not even place at all. I would buy rabbits good for meat as opposed to show. You kind of have to choose which you want to breed for. Meat quality or show quality? About the one large cage or two smaller cages for a weaned litter, I would go with the two smaller cages. One for does one for bucks. Also, a 24X24 cage is pretty small for such a large rabbit. My Californians live in cages at least 4 feet x 3 feet. The more room the better. Meat rabbits need exercise. Good luck!

Thank you for your reply! When I say show I mean less ARBA and more local 4-H. Good quaility rabbits are pretty cheap around here. i've never seen one go for more than $50. I did pay $80 for a pedigree lionhead buck once though. The cage size is something I didnt really consider much I suppose. I could probably sell the ones I have now and buy two large cages for the foundation pair and a larger growout cage. Also would it be better to build an all wire cage or just buy them.

 

[AltonaAcres]

Ok! Then you would probably be fine selling to 4-Hers. They could even use young rabbits they purchased from you as meat pens at the fair. I would definitely sell your smaller cages and replace them. I've found hutches are work the best for me. I buy large ones with wire bottoms, a little enclosed area for when it gets cold (or to put a nesting box into), at least two doors, and a tray underneath. Much easier to clean that way. Also, you may not need a grow-out cage if you plan to raise fryers. They are the most common age to butcher rabbits. They are less than 60-70 days old. Most people butcher fryers right after weaning. Literally take the young rabbit from the doe and butcher them. It's good to keep meat kits with the doe for 8-10 weeks as opposed to 6-8 weeks because the longer they are on milk the more healthy and heavy they will be. If that doesn't appeal to you you can raise roasters, who are usually 4-6 months old when you butcher. Their meat is tougher, and harder to cook however. It's all up to you!

 

[FortCluck]

Ok! Then you would probably be fine selling to 4-Hers. They could even use young rabbits they purchased from you as meat pens at the fair. I would definitely sell your smaller cages and replace them. I've found hutches are work the best for me. I buy large ones with wire bottoms, a little enclosed area for when it gets cold (or to put a nesting box into), at least two doors, and a tray underneath. Much easier to clean that way. Also, you may not need a grow-out cage if you plan to raise fryers. They are the most common age to butcher rabbits. They are less than 60-70 days old. Most people butcher fryers right after weaning. Literally take the young rabbit from the doe and butcher them. It's good to keep meat kits with the doe for 8-10 weeks as opposed to 6-8 weeks because the longer they are on milk the more healthy and heavy they will be. If that doesn't appeal to you you can raise roasters, who are usually 4-6 months old when you butcher. Their meat is tougher, and harder to cook however. It's all up to you!

Very good info! I added it into my phone for the future.

 

[EarthView]

Ok! Then you would probably be fine selling to 4-Hers. They could even use young rabbits they purchased from you as meat pens at the fair. I would definitely sell your smaller cages and replace them. I've found hutches are work the best for me. I buy large ones with wire bottoms, a little enclosed area for when it gets cold (or to put a nesting box into), at least two doors, and a tray underneath. Much easier to clean that way. Also, you may not need a grow-out cage if you plan to raise fryers. They are the most common age to butcher rabbits. They are less than 60-70 days old. Most people butcher fryers right after weaning. Literally take the young rabbit from the doe and butcher them. It's good to keep meat kits with the doe for 8-10 weeks as opposed to 6-8 weeks because the longer they are on milk the more healthy and heavy they will be. If that doesn't appeal to you you can raise roasters, who are usually 4-6 months old when you butcher. Their meat is tougher, and harder to cook however. It's all up to you!

It would def be more convient to butcher right after weaning. As for cages I would prefer to have all wire and just add a 'warm box' during the winter that they can go into.

 

[AltonaAcres]

That should work! Have fun.........

 

[EarthView]

That should work! Have fun.........

Thanks! It will be nice to have rabbits again and the babies are so cute when they're little. I think building cages will be best as I can control the size, I've always had a problem with the size of the doors on commercial cages.

 

[cassie]

I suggest you get the book Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits by Bob Bennett. It is inexpensive and I have found it to be very helpful. I got mine on amazon.com. A note on raising show rabbits. You are going to end up butchering most of them anyway because in a litter only a few will measure up.