Lavender orpingtons? Chicken math... Lol

HenHouse10C

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Not sure where to post this, but it's related to my flock so here goes! To add to the flock or not to add, that is my dilemma.There is a breeder about an hour away that has 7 day old lavender orpington chicks for sale. Currently I have 3 eight week old pullets (1 black copper maran and 2 black stars) and 3 2 week old mystery chicks (probably australorps or Jersey Giants).

If I did magically talk hubby into getting some of these chicks, what would be a good number to add? Our coop is 4x6 ft with an attached 14x4 ft run and I plan to free range them some once mature too. I've already got the 3 younger chicks set up in a brooder so that's not an issue.

Thoughts? Are LO's docile birds?
 
Hi!
I have Buff Orpingtons and they are great layers, so the LOs should be as well. BOs tend to be good broodies and are docile, so I'm sure that goes for LOs as well.
Some people may say otherwise, but if you have, say, ten chickens in a 4x6 coop with a 14x14 run attached, I think that's plenty as long as you let them free range. They'll be fine in there as chicks for now tho.
Lavender Orpingtons are very pretty, and I believe that they're relatively rare in comparison to BOs. If the breeder is giving you a good deal, I'd say get 5+.
 
I'm going to call tomorrow to see how many she has and if she can hold for until Sunday when I can pick them up. She's asking $7 each, unsexed. Is that reasonable for that breed? I'm pretty new to all of this so I have no idea. That is twice what was paid for my other birds, but I'm pretty sure black sex links are common..
Hi!
I have Buff Orpingtons and they are great layers, so the LOs should be as well. BOs tend to be good broodies and are docile, so I'm sure that goes for LOs as well. 
Some people may say otherwise, but if you have, say, ten chickens in a 4x6 coop with a 14x14 run attached, I think that's plenty as long as you let them free range. They'll be fine in there as chicks for now tho. 
Lavender Orpingtons are very pretty, and I believe that they're relatively rare in comparison to BOs. If the breeder is giving you a good deal, I'd say get 5+.
 
I wouldn't put 10 birds in a 4x6 coop...large run, free range or not....sometimes they need to be confined to coop because of predators or extreme weather.
Crowded birds can cause havoc.

Integrating birds can also see the need for multiple enclosures at times for separation to avoid injuries.
Chickens can be easy, once you've climbed the steep learning curve and have the right tools to make it that way.

Yes, I do plan for worst case scenarios....JMO.
 
Thanks for the insight... Looks like I may need to add another enclosure? It is possible that I can enclose the area directly under the coop to add a 1st story coop, so there would be two separate 4x6 safe spaces. There is 3 ft of clearance under it the way it is now so it's already framed in and definitely doable. I can see how 10 birds would get cramped, if having to rush in for a thunderstorm or possum.

That being said, as far as coop training the younger chicks when it's time, it may not be a bad idea for them to have separate roosts in a separated coop so the older birds routine isn't disturbed. It'll be about another month before they're ready, and who knows how long before LOs would be ready. That also gives me time to build the other "half" of the coop!
 
Thanks for the insight... Looks like I may need to add another enclosure? It is possible that I can enclose the area directly under the coop to add a 1st story coop, so there would be two separate 4x6 safe spaces. There is 3 ft of clearance under it the way it is now so it's already framed in and definitely doable. I can see how 10 birds would get cramped, if having to rush in for a thunderstorm or possum.

That being said, as far as coop training the younger chicks when it's time, it may not be a bad idea for them to have separate roosts in a separated coop so the older birds routine isn't disturbed. It'll be about another month before they're ready, and who knows how long before LOs would be ready. That also gives me time to build the other "half" of the coop!
When integrating birds they definitely need separate enclosures at first so the big birds don't abuse(or kill) the new birds.

Birds living together form a unit or flock, when you add other bird in with them they see it as an invasion of their territory and respond by defending said territory.
They can be vicious and can even get bloody, its hard to watch even if you're not forewarned about what can happen, the smaller the space the uglier it can be.

Read up on integration for your future:

Here's some notes I've taken on integration that I found to be very helpful.......
......take what applies or might help and ignore the rest.
See if any of them, or the links provided at the bottom, might offer some tips that will assist you in your situation:

Integration of new chickens into flock:

Consider medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article
Poultry Biosecurity
BYC 'medical quarantine' search

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact. Integrating new birds of equal size works best.

For smaller chicks I used a large wire dog crate right in the coop for the smallers. I removed the crate door and put up a piece of wire fencing over the opening and bent up one corner just enough for the smallers to fit thru but the biggers could not. Feed and water inside the crate for the smallers. Make sure the smallers know how to get in and out of the crate opening before exposing them to the olders. this worked out great for me, by the time the crate was too small for the them to roost in there(about 3 weeks), they had pretty much integrated themselves to the olders.

If you have too many smallers to fit in a crate you can partition off part of the coop with a wire wall and make the same openings for smallers escape.


The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide out of line of sight and/or up and away from any bully birds.

Read up on integration..... BYC advanced search>titles only>integration
This is good place to start reading:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/adding-to-your-flock
 
Thank you! We are picking up the lavender orpingtons tomorrow. I will be temporarily sectioning off a part of the brooder with hardware cloth so the older chicks don't pick on them. Once it's time to integrate all of the birds I'm thinking of putting the dog crate (brooder) into the run during the day for about a week so they can socialize safely... In the meantime I'll be building a separate pen under the existing coop
 

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