Linear actuator HELP!

[Shamo Hybrid]

That's why I asked. Based on the trouble shooting (without a multimeter), a 6 volt battery might operate the clock, but probably won't energize a 12 volt coil in the relay.

Mine is a bit more complex, as I designed it to operate using Samsung's SmartThings. I can control it from the app on my phone. I also wired in safety switches so it doesn't cut a chicken in half!

Works perfectly for 2 years now. The benefit of remote operation (one of) is if you want to close the coop and you are not there, you can. Like when this Coopers hawk decided to perch on top of the run. Once we verified they were all inside, we hit the button and closed the door.

Why don't you help this lady out and see if she can get it working?

 

[Indoroowet]

Sadly you have made it more difficult than it could be as simple as using the right system...

I door that swings down is easier than a door going straight down in a slide fashion.
The easiest actuator around, to let something down by its own weight is an automotive Antenna that goes up or down by the time the radio is turned on or off.

So in this case there is no "reversing" needed...! Power on, the antenna extends, power off, the antenna retracts.

You can then use the extending and retracting function of the antenna to open or close a swing-down door at any time with the simple use of an electric timer.

Use a cheap timer and modify the contacts to be separate from the 120-volt house current.
Use that switch to activate the 12 volts antenna, use a 12 volts high power DC wall-wart...

Mine has been working now for over 6 years...

I have no idea what to say about your system..., just not enough info to troubleshoot.

 

[LeonSchmidt]

Here’s another picture to show the whole set up so far. I REALLY appreciate your help. Thanks so much!

With this set up would the relay be drawing power half the time? Would it be better to use two SPST relays, one to open the door, and one to close the door. The linear actuator should have built in limit switches. Just turn on one relay for a couple minutes to open and the other relay a couple minutes to close.

 

[ZedikerStation]

With this set up would the relay be drawing power half the time? Would it be better to use two SPST relays, one to open the door, and one to close the door. The linear actuator should have built in limit switches. Just turn on one relay for a couple minutes to open and the other relay a couple minutes to close.

It would do the same thing, but, you have more parts and more wiring. Since she tried 2 different clocks, and without information from a multimeter, I'm guessing the battery did not have enough capacity to operate the clock AND the actuator AND the relay coil at the same time. Again.... without a multimeter, troubleshooting is just guessing.....

 

[Buzheuchan]

That’s what I thought might be the problem. I have a new relay coming just in case. I haven’t got a safety switch (I honestly don’t even know how to do that) however, this actuator moves slower than a heard of snails traveling through peanut butter so hopefully my chickens won’t be too unintelligent! I appreciate your help!

Relay needs to be a DPDT type,

 

[Mouthpear]

I have no idea what to say about your system..., just not enough info to troubleshoot.

Actually there was plenty of info.

Antennas, for chicken doors, are a bad idea. JS

 

[Mouthpear]

OK I have to seveirly stress that I am NOT trying to be an _________ (Fill in the black), but looking back on this and reading every single post just had me so aggravated, especially since I tried to help back then and left a comment detailing how to fix in her youtube channel but was ignored.

So today, as usual, I search the internet looking for new ideas or looking to see if any one can use my help, and a ran across this post again. And I took a second look.

The entire time that problem was in the wiring. You both had the the relay coil going directly to the BOTH sides of the timer switch. That will do nothing. Image #1.

"1 and 2 on your clock go to 7 and 8 on your relay." Is just looping through the switch and coil.

What was needed is: Image #2

Positive from battery to go to TIMER 2.
TIMER 1 goes to relay socket 8.
Relay socket 7 goes to battery Negative.

Anyway I am just gonna leave this here for anyone who might be having the same problem.

1 and 2 on your clock go to 7 and 8 on your relay.

ok so now I have it like this. Is this correct?

1 on your clock to 7 on your rail
2 on your clock to 8 on your rail

Clock 1 to relay 7

Clock 2 to relay 8

See if this helps.

Image still shows no connection to battery.

Well, we know your relay works. Your clock is not energizing the relay coil. 7 and 8.

Because the circuit through the timer switch was never connected to power.

You are connecting the clock switch terminals to 7 and 8, correct? Not backwards?

Gotta be a problem with the clock.

Problem is in wiring it.


Removed all the other wiring for clarity. If anyone needs the rest, just let me know and I will provide a link.

Image #1

Image #2