Quote: Temps can be increased by covering the windows; temps can be heled by keeping in a room that is 65-70 degrees consistently. GOod lck!!
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Quote: Temps can be increased by covering the windows; temps can be heled by keeping in a room that is 65-70 degrees consistently. GOod lck!!
well I'm not confident they are accurate as I haven't been successful. Air vents open102 on top of the eggs-- these two thermometers match-- how confident are youthat they are acurate??
Humidity at 70% is mroe than enough-- that is turkey egg level. THe higher the %RH like 80% it is important to reduce the temp a degree or so.
How is the air flow in the hatcher?? Are the holes in the bottom open? Nothing to block air flow?? How about the top vents-- all iopen? red plugs out??
How did the air cells look at day 18?? did you compare them to a diagram, or did you wiegh them to track weight loss of he egg??
Quote: lol, hence the quewsion. That puts the thermometers on to the possiblity list. Open air vents are off the list.
60-70% humidity is a bit high to start with-- meaning once eggs srtart hatching they too will add to the humidity.
Hatching is a challenge-- it does take a little work and thinking and learning. Hope you wont give up.
When I bought the fish tank thermomeers I bought 5-- I picked the ones that measure the same air tep at the store. Not very scientific, but made my life easier they weree all the same. I used those to get hathcing and then realized the length of time to hatch told me if temps were running high or low. ( Better to have hatch a bit early like 1 day than late ) then compared those thermomters to other thermometers and so on.
I find it heart breaking to open them-- so sometimes I dont.Must be the thermometers...even tho they both read the same they must be equally inaccurate. Gonna get some fish tank and digital ones...certainly development was better this time. Will give a couple more days then muster up the courage to look inside.
I don't want to give up. I did hatch 2 in April...
40-45%I find it heart breaking to open them-- so sometimes I dont.
If they died early-- it could be either issue: they just died early, or the temps were too low and they were behind in development. SOmeone else might have a different idea- but that is my view.
Out of curiosisty, what was the RH fir first 18 days??
Quote: Next quewstion-- how do you monitor the moisture loss from the eggs: by weight or candling at days 7, 14 and 18??
by candling. ..which I learned more thru those ones than the other hatches as these were easy to see thru...but as I candle polish eggs tonight 11 out of 12 had movement, great Veining. ..so comparing this last one (current) to the soon to be locked down a lot of difference. Candled some of the over due and not as far as long as should be amd those that appear full are without movement. ..so finding some things as I learn more. Plus white or light brown are much easier to see thru vs. Colored eggs...plus ones in t urners are local.Next quewstion-- how do you monitor the moisture loss from the eggs: by weight or candling at days 7, 14 and 18??
Quote: Definitely a light shell color makes canding so much easier. lol
You didn't mention comparing the air cell of the candled egg to a chart to know where is is supposed to be-- a specific amount of moisture neeeds to leave the eggs by day 7, 14 and 18. By checking this, you have enough time to adjust the humidity to make sure the right amt of moisture is in the egg on day 18.
Do you have a diagram or chart of the air cell ond ay 7, 14 and 18?