"Louisiana "La-yers" Peeps"

[kuntrygirl]

Forgot to mention that I put more pea eggs in the incubator. :/ The girls won't stop laying !!!!!!!!!!

 

[CackedNut]

To the tune of "Green Acres", ready? a-one & a two:

"Fertile Acres is the place to be"
"Lots and lots of happy poul--te--ry"
"Ducks & peas spread out so far & wide"
"Julie wants to scream & run & hide"!

Very good!

 

[catdaddyfro]

First of all you sell your fertile "hatching eggs" too cheap. Most everyone that sells hand selected hatching eggs will price those eggs 3-4 times higher than eating eggs(its the norm) not that they are that much different other than taking the time (to grade) pick out and select the choicest, most uniform, cleanest "eggiest" looking eggs, and sometimes a little more expensive feed for the breeders rations.

Hang a price tag on them that you know only the serious folks will want them for, in other words weed out the tares and let the dregs sink to the bottom. I don't think you're going to fold up or go under anytime soon you got a booming business going on there, I say let the dumbshizum be.

Jeff

 

[kuntrygirl]

First of all you sell your fertile "hatching eggs" too cheap. Most everyone that sells hand selected hatching eggs will price those eggs 3-4 times higher than eating eggs(its the norm) not that they are that much different other than taking the time  (to grade) pick out and select the choicest, most uniform, cleanest "eggiest" looking eggs, and sometimes a little more expensive feed for the breeders rations.

Hang a price tag on them that you know only the serious folks will want them for, in other words weed out the tares and let the dregs sink to the bottom. I don't think you're going to fold up or go under anytime soon you got a booming business going on there,  I say let the dumbshizum be.

Jeff

This is my first time thinkning about selling "mutt" eggs so cheap because they are "mutts". These are the eggs in question. When my breeding pens are set up, my fertile eggs are much, much higher. It would be dishonest for me to sell my mutt eggs for any more than what they're worth. I have about 100+ hens and a person who buys mutt eggs may end up with a mix of a BarRhoOrpingaran (Barred Rock, Rhode Island Red, Buff Orpington and Black Copper Maran mix) Wouldn't that be a sight when hatched. So, I can't see making someone pay top dollar for a chick that may look like something only a mother could love.

This year I did not plan on breeding any chicks at all. Another guy asked me to hatch some mutt eggs for him and I am doing that for only him. He wants about 25. And then this lady wanted some eggs. Other than that, I was going to be totally OUT of the chick hatching this year. There is no money in selling and hatching chicken eggs compared to the money made from hatching peas, geese, turkeys and guineas and selling these same eggs.

I don't know too many people that sell "mutt" eggs. I may have to find a few people to see what they sell their mutt eggs for. That may give me an idea of where to set my prices in the event this happens again.

Yea, I think I"m done with her

 

[CackedNut]

This is my first time thinkning about selling "mutt" eggs so cheap because they are "mutts". These are the eggs in question. When my breeding pens are set up, my fertile eggs are much, much higher.

It would be dishonest for me to sell my mutt eggs for any more than what they're worth. I have about 100+ hens and a person who buys mutt eggs may end up with a mix of a BarRhoOrpingaran (Barred Rock, Rhode Island Red, Buff Orpington and Black Copper Maran mix)

Wouldn't that be a sight when hatched. So, I can't see making someone pay top dollar for a chick that may look like something only a mother could love.

This year I did not plan on breeding any chicks at all. Another guy asked me to hatch some mutt eggs for him and I am doing that for only him. He wants about 25. And then this lady wanted some eggs. Other than that, I was going to be totally OUT of the chick hatching this year. There is no money in selling and hatching chicken eggs compared to the money made from hatching peas, geese, turkeys and guineas and selling these same eggs.

I don't know too many people that sell "mutt" eggs. I may have to find a few people to see what they sell their mutt eggs for. That may give me an idea of where to set my prices in the event this happens again.

Yea, I think I"m done with her

Ok... As new as I am to this forum, I still can't believe YOU ACTUALLY SAID YOU WERE DONE CHICK HATCHING THIS YEAR!!!

From what I can tell, you aren't called "fertile acres" for nothing!!!! Your girls always seem to "find a way"! Maybe you should knock on some wood for luck.

Just say'n...

 

[CackedNut]

Please help the "special new person"

What wormers do you guys use, and how often? I promise, I am doing lots of reading and trying to learn on my own also. I figured it gives me a fighting chance if I learn from your experiences also.
Thanks, Laurie

 

[kuntrygirl]

This is my first time thinkning about selling "mutt" eggs so cheap because they are "mutts". These are the eggs in question. When my breeding pens are set up, my fertile eggs are much, much higher. It would be dishonest for me to sell my mutt eggs for any more than what they're worth. I have about 100+ hens and a person who buys mutt eggs may end up with a mix of a BarRhoOrpingaran (Barred Rock, Rhode Island Red, Buff Orpington and Black Copper Maran mix) Wouldn't that be a sight when hatched. So, I can't see making someone pay top dollar for a chick that may look like something only a mother could love. This year I did not plan on breeding any chicks at all. Another guy asked me to hatch some mutt eggs for him and I am doing that for only him. He wants about 25. And then this lady wanted some eggs. Other than that, I was going to be totally OUT of the chick hatching this year. There is no money in selling and hatching chicken eggs compared to the money made from hatching peas, geese, turkeys and guineas and selling these same eggs. I don't know too many people that sell "mutt" eggs. I may have to find a few people to see what they sell their mutt eggs for. That may give me an idea of where to set my prices in the event this happens again. Yea, I think I"m done with her

Ok... As new as I am to this forum, I still can't believe YOU ACTUALLY SAID YOU WERE DONE CHICK HATCHING THIS YEAR!!!

From what I can tell, you aren't called "fertile acres" for nothing!!!! Your girls always seem to "find a way"! Maybe you should knock on some wood for luck.

Just say'n...

If one more person tells me how "lucky" I am because of all of the hatches, I'm going to run down the street with a Walmart bag over my head screaming. I guess that I should re-track that statement about me being done chick hatching for the year because I did just put it 5 pea eggs in the incubator this weekend. Ok, I'm leaving the building now. But it's not my fault. The pea hens don't want to stop laying eggs. What am I supposed to do here?

 

[kuntrygirl]

Please help the "special new person"

What wormers do you guys use, and how often? I promise, I am doing lots of reading and trying to learn on my own also. I figured it gives me a fighting chance if I learn from your experiences also. Thanks, Laurie

Sometimes there is too much to read, so please feel free to ask any and all questions here. It may be easier to get an answer here than to read a gazillion post. We won't be upset. We love questions. This is from one of the many experts on BYC (dawg53) when it comes to de-wormers. And be sure to rotate your de-wormers. In addition to worms, please be aware of parasites as well.

Cocci are protozoa. Cocci have nothing to do with wormers. Corid is the preferred treatment as it treats all 9 types of cocci, sulmet only treats 2 types of cocci. Sulmet is harsh on a chickens system, sulfadimethoxine would be a better choice. Corid is not an antibiotic, it is a thiamine blocker with no withdrawal period. Sulmet and sulfadimethoxine are antibiotics that will kill only 2 types of susceptable cocci. There is a 10 day withdrawal using sulmet, 5 day withdrawal using sulfadimethoxine. Always use corid first, if it fails... then sulfadimethoxine, sulmet as a last resort. Hands down, valbazen (albendazole) is the best wormer on the market. I've used chemical wormers and natural wormers enough to know what's best. Valbazen kills all known types of worms that a chicken can get. Aggressive treatment with valbazen is needed for gapeworms and tapeworms. Standard treatments with valbazen are needed for other worms such as; large roundworms, cecal worms, capillary worms, gizzard worms. Remember that ivermectin is used for worming in cattle and horses, its secondary benefit is that it kills bloodsucking lice and mites in cattle and horses. In chickens, despite what you read from others (misinformation) and outdated website links regarding ivermectin used as a wormer in chickens...it is outdated and misinformation persists. Ivermectin has LOST its effectiveness as a wormer in chickens. I dont use it anymore because of that reason. Ivermectin has been overused for treating mites in chickens for years and worms have simply built resistance against the product. Another example of misinformation is that alot of chicken owners think that ivermectin will kill chicken lice...it does not kill chicken lice. Chicken lice do not suck blood, but will suck blood from and open scratch or wound if the opportunity exists (that opportunity usually doesnt exist.) Biting lice that suck blood from cattle and horses are a different type of lice than the type of lice that chickens get. Chicken lice feed off feathers and dead skin...more irritating for the chicken and the chicken will scratch causing feather loss. However, all chicken mites suck blood and ivermectin is effective in killing chicken mites. It's best to use sevin dust or poultry dust to kill lice and mites. Coops MUST be dusted as well or dusting the chickens alone will be ineffective if the coops arnt dusted. Both birds and coops must be redusted 7 to 10 days later to kill nits hatched from egg missed during the first dusting. You cannot treat the inside of a coop with ivermectin...dusting is best. Chemical and natural products are ineffective removing external parasite eggs from chickens. I've read that coconut oil will remove them, or can be cut out with scissors. I rotate valbazen with safeguard (fenbendazole) liquid goat wormer. I also use zimectrin gold equine wormer for stubborn cases of tapeworms. Zimectrin Gold contains ivermectin and praziquantel. It's the praziquantel that kills the tapeworms. It's the same as droncit/drontal used for tapeworms in dogs and cats. How often you worm depends on your soil conditions. Warm moist/wet soil requires frequent wormings. Dry desertlike soil or cold mountainous/rocky soil will require less worming. Our soil here is warm and moist most of the year, I worm every 3 months. Dosage for the corid 9.6% liquid solution is 9.5cc's per gallon of water for 5 days. Dont add anything to the mixture and make it fresh daily. Dosage for the corid 20% soluable powder is 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water for 5 days. For sulfadimethoxine and sulmet, follow the instructions on the package and bottle respectively. Valbazen dosage is 1/2cc orally undiluted to standard size birds, 1/4cc for smaller birds. Repeat dosing again in 10 days. Safeguard dosage is basically the same as valbazen, only a couple of differences: Dosage is given orally undiluted; 1cc for giants, 3/4cc for large fowl, 1/2cc for standards, 1/4cc for smaller birds. Repeat dosing again in 10 days. Safeguard will not kill tapeworms...that is the main difference between valbazen and safeguard. If you're dealing with a case of stubborn tapeworms, zimectrin gold is a paste...a "pea" size amount given orally to standard size chickens and a "small pea" size amount given to smaller birds. Repeat dosing again in 10 days. For all wormers, the reason that you give a second dosing 10 days after the initial worming is because there are worm eggs in the chickens system. They hatch and become larva, reworming them at the 10th day kills them before they become adults and reproduce. Reworming the 10th days ensures a 100% kill rate effectively ending the worms lifecycle. There isnt no wormer that will kill worm eggs. As a matter of fact, some worm eggs survive in soil for several years even in extreme temperature conditions....another reason to set up a regular worming schedule. Withdrawal periods with all the wormers I mentioned are 14 days after the last dosing. Eggs can be given to dogs during that timeframe. Do not give them to your chickens to eat. There's residue in the eggs, however slight, and it can cause worm resistance in future wormings...not to mention extending the withdrawal period. Worms weaken a birds immune system opening the door for respiratory diseases, also bacterial, viral, and fungal problems...others say they have never seen worms...they either have tunnel vision or are in denial. One roundworm can lay thousands of eggs in one day in feces deposted onto the soil where birds peck at the ground all the time. Simply put, if their feet touch the ground, they will get worms eventually.

 

[foreverlearning]

Please help the "special new person"

What wormers do you guys use, and how often? I promise, I am doing lots of reading and trying to learn on my own also. I figured it gives me a fighting chance if I learn from your experiences also.
Thanks, Laurie

Valbazen hands down. Easy and covers just about anything. My TSC doesn't sell it but most do, I had to go to one of the small feed stores.

Where do you hail from?

 

[foreverlearning]

Kuntrygirl: You found the exact post that made me decide what one to use. It's not in the water it's you, it could be worse...You could be popping out babies like that. For one I am glad it takes 9 months for us, I'd go mad having several every couple of weeks.