Mahonri's 3rd Annual, BYC Easter Hatch-a-long!

I don't have a place for emus either.:( but I want to hatch some anyway. I figure there's got to be an emu farmer someplace!

OK...oh wise ones. I humbly request your assistance. No one really answers my questions elsewhere and I figure its because everyone is always just trying to catch up on this thread. So here is my plethora of questions.

1. I have 3 hygrometers, one for humidor, one accurite, one cheapo analog reptile one. I put salt in a soda cap about 3/4 way full, just enough water to make it wet but not too wet and sealed it in a plastic baggie. Its been over 3 hours and two read 60, one reads 59. I know normally I would just do the math and assume they 15 degrees off. But since they're all the same, do I assume its only 60% humidity in the bag or that they are all truly exactly 15 degrees off?

2. My chickens won't sleep in their coop since I put nest boxes in the nest box part where they normally sleep. I fixed their roost so it stays put, which is the same height as the next boxes (and I can't go any higher) They actually sleep behind the coop in the 6 in. space between it and the house. They don't evem roost on the coop which is about 3 ft. high. How do I solve this.

3. You guys mentioned pepper helps get them to lay...is that only for chickens that stopped because of light or will that help a chicken lay her first egg?

4. I have pullet that has wattles and comb that are bright red and growing fast, suddenly is letting me pet her, but seems to behind in terms of puberty. Meaning, her voice hasnt changed. She mostly chirp/clucks rather than cluck.

5. Last and not least, how do I get my hen from attacking my dog. Her whole mission in life is to kill my dog. Now my dog is 70 lbs so I'm not really worried about her, BUT she thinks the chicken is playing and wants to play back. And she's a boxer so she plays by boxing. She has knocked the crap out of me while playing, so I don't want her to hurt the chicken. She does not care about them and ignores them until the chicken attacks. And as hilarious as it is, someones going to get hurt!

So any advice would be appreciated.
I will help with number 2. Chickens are often stubborn. I have solved this two ways and part of a third.

First way: pick them up each night and put them on the roost in the coop. I did this with my Black Australorp babies, they wanted to squeeze in under the nest box of the small coop. It housed two older and laying Golden Comets. I had to move them each night to their coop. It took 5 days or so to get them to go into their coop.

Second way: Put them on "coop Lockdown" for three full days. I did this when I added three Hatchery RIR's and then for two Barred Plymouth rocks. Add the new chicks at night and leave them in the coop for three days. I did check to make sure they were not killing each other the next morning. So this fools the chickens into thinking the new ones are part of the flock since they wake up together. Oh, I also let them see each other for a couple of days by putting them into a temporary enclosure next the them. After three days their brains reset and they know that the new place is home.

Even after the Black Australorps started putting them selves to bed each nite in their own coop, the like to huddle in a pile in the corner instead of getting onto the roosts. For several nights I picked them up and put them on the roost. They eventually figured it out.

Good luck with the rest of your questions.

Ron
 
3. You guys mentioned pepper helps get them to lay...is that only for chickens that stopped because of light or will that help a chicken lay her first egg?


So any advice would be appreciated.

So this is the "any advice" you promised to appreciate.
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Yes, cayenne pepper has worked for me in the past. It's like a little incentive. Seems to work. I'm not sure how. Maybe it just warms them up a bit or helps with their circulation? Maybe it's like an old-fashioned tonic.

Are her wattles and/or face and comb red? Don't the wattles get red first? Then the face and comb? Then the eggs begin rolling on out.
 
1. I have 3 hygrometers, one for humidor, one accurite, one cheapo analog reptile one. I put salt in a soda cap about 3/4 way full, just enough water to make it wet but not too wet and sealed it in a plastic baggie. Its been over 3 hours and two read 60, one reads 59. I know normally I would just do the math and assume they 15 degrees off. But since they're all the same, do I assume its only 60% humidity in the bag or that they are all truly exactly 15 degrees off?


So any advice would be appreciated.

The only advice I can give is use one of them and trust it as best you can. Using three different ones is just going to drive you crazy because they are not going to agree ever from what I have seen on different threads. I would just keep an eye on your air cells and make sure they are getting bigger. I used to have a good chart that showed what the air cells should look like as incubation progressed. I will see if I can find it. Sorry I can't help more.

Mahonri, I am glad it is not more serious than a bad burn. I am with Renee, I was worried it was much worse. Don't get me wrong, I had a second degree burn all over my face from the sun (ah the stupidity of youth, the first nice beach weather day and no sunscreen) and I know how painful they are. Silvadene kept it from scarring at all, kept it well moisturized so when the blisters broke the skin underneath didn't dry and crack and helps prevent infection. I recommend it 100%. Saying lots of prayers that it heals quickly for you and the pain goes away really fast.
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where is the slumped on the floor in exhaustion smiley? all caught up! can't remember a thing. Oh wait, that post was funny, and loved the pictures of the chickens... or was it the emu's?
Four days!!???? really?? gulp, better go talk to the girls.
 
p. 219 of the 1995 version of Damerow's Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens: Care, Feeding Facilities

She subracts out non-fertiles and all quitters before figuring out the "hatch rate."

(A-J=K. Do the math. Then K/(A-B)=hatch rate. It sounds convoluted, but if you have the book, you know what I mean.)

However, it would seem that for Mahonri's 3rd Annual BYC Easter Hatch-a-long that we are going with a much simpler system, right?

A=eggs set
B=eggs hatched
B/A=hatch rate

Am I understanding this correctly? I'm not sure it's every been mentioned in this thread, unless it was added to post #1. Or I just missed it because of mental overload (this is my first hatch big hatch-a-long).

Can anyone shed a little light, please? Is there anything official? Or is it announced later?

I'm picturing the 24 embryos that I think I'm setting and then as I take out infertiles, that my hatch rate is going down if we are doing this by the simpler method. Fine by me. But I'm thinking I need to set the most fertile rooster's progeny instead of the other rooster's progeny even though I need a few chicks from both.

What was last year's total hatch rate? Anyone remember off the top of your head? What was the winners hatch rate? Am I the only one trying for a good hatch rate?

Thank you. (see me taking subsurvient curtsey and stumbling backward out of the room)
 
The emus are so cute. We had an emu when we lived in California. My friend got a hold of 2 baby emu's so my other friend took one (she told her husband it was a different type of chicken) lol
It was a really cool pet it used to wander in the trees behind our hous and it looked like something out of jurassic park. I finally gave mine to my friend so it could have another emu for company. they both turned out to be male we think, no eggs ever. She had more property then we did at the time. Now that we have the farm 200+Ac I have a perfect pasture for Emus. We have to build a new house out there 1st , the old one is not inhabitable in the Winter. DH is saying no Emu's but I'm sure when the time comes I can talk him in to it. ;)
 



One thing about this chart, it tells you the reverse of what you should do. If your air cells are too big, increase humidity, too small decrease humidity.

I found another one that has turkey/waterfowl too

 
p. 219 of the 1995 version of Damerow's Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens: Care, Feeding Facilities

She subracts out non-fertiles and all quitters before figuring out the "hatch rate."

(A-J=K. Do the math. Then K/(A-B)=hatch rate. It sounds convoluted, but if you have the book, you know what I mean.)

However, it would seem that for Mahonri's 3rd Annual BYC Easter Hatch-a-long that we are going with a much simpler system, right?

A=eggs set
B=eggs hatched
B/A=hatch rate

Am I understanding this correctly? I'm not sure it's every been mentioned in this thread, unless it was added to post #1. Or I just missed it because of mental overload (this is my first hatch big hatch-a-long).

Can anyone shed a little light, please? Is there anything official? Or is it announced later?

I'm picturing the 24 embryos that I think I'm setting and then as I take out infertiles, that my hatch rate is going down if we are doing this by the simpler method. Fine by me. But I'm thinking I need to set the most fertile rooster's progeny instead of the other rooster's progeny even though I need a few chicks from both.

What was last year's total hatch rate? Anyone remember off the top of your head? What was the winners hatch rate? Am I the only one trying for a good hatch rate?

Thank you. (see me taking subsurvient curtsey and stumbling backward out of the room)

Spangled, if we follow the same format that we have in the past, it should be the simple calculation that you guessed for this hatch as well.

ETA - I think we are all going for a great hatch rate but we are not all OBSESSING over it like you are.
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(well at least not yet anyway
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FYI: We use EGGS HATCHED/EGGS SET

This was the calc we decided on a few years back, because all the "changes" would be an administrative nightmare for the spreadsheet girl: Me
 

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