Maine

[Hiltonizer]

So with the InkBird, you must set your wafer to max heat and let the external unit control the rest? Do you use a fan for cooling as well?

Correct.

I do not use a fan, the hovabator loses heat pretty fast when shut off by the inkbird.

I use celsius as its more precise on the inkbird, 38C, and set the bottom of the inkbird sensor to mid-height of the eggs (in turner) which gets the job done. I use packing tape to hold the sensor at the appropriate height by dropping it in one of the vent holes on the top, and it fits perfectly.

 

[Hiltonizer]

Hello again! I want to apologize ahead of time. I will probably have quite a few questions over the next few weeks as we finish up our run and get ready to put our chicks in. Is hardware cloth the only option/best option for the run?

I've never had a failure of 1" galv poultry/hex/chicken wire. The cheap 2" stuff is another story... the tighter the mesh the stronger it is even at the same gauge.

People claim it's easily ripped by predators, but with a tensile strength of roughly 60lbs for a single strand, I want to know where in Maine there are mountain lions to break through the mesh. It'd take a serious effort by a large predator, but again, the fastening or run itself is likely to fail first. If it's galvanized, its no more prone to rusting than hardware cloth. It's been standard faire for decades for good reason, the internet is just making people paranoid and ready to over spend.

As far as a fastening tip. the best thing I've found to do is sandwich it between two boards using screws. All ours are stapled to a 2x4 to hold in place, and then a piece of strapping is run over the top and fastened by every foot or so pinch and hook the wire a few squares in. A large man could use the side of one of our tractors like a hammock.

Predators that don't care about netting are things that burrow under or come over, so that's a consideration for a permanent run in designing.

 

[MainerChick]

Well I may have to get one of those next time. Temp control has been for more stressful than I care for. By the time this is done, I'll likely be ready to build my own bator, which I know many do. It just seemed too technical when I started this adventure. But by the time you but the second and third thermometers, the Turner for the old bator, etc, it really adds up.

I just had to add a second sponge to keep humidity up. I think there's not a great seal around the lid and I'm losing to much moisture. It should stay close to 60% though, and I hope that's enough for the last few days here.

 

[rottlady]

I've never had a failure of 1" galv poultry/hex/chicken wire. The cheap 2" stuff is another story... the tighter the mesh the stronger it is even at the same gauge.

People claim it's easily ripped by predators, but with a tensile strength of roughly 60lbs for a single strand, I want to know where in Maine there are mountain lions to break through the mesh. It'd take a serious effort by a large predator, but again, the fastening or run itself is likely to fail first. If it's galvanized, its no more prone to rusting than hardware cloth. It's been standard faire for decades for good reason, the internet is just making people paranoid and ready to over spend.

As far as a fastening tip. the best thing I've found to do is sandwich it between two boards using screws. All ours are stapled to a 2x4 to hold in place, and then a piece of strapping is run over the top and fastened by every foot or so pinch and hook the wire a few squares in. A large man could use the side of one of our tractors like a hammock.

Predators that don't care about netting are things that burrow under or come over, so that's a consideration for a permanent run in designing.

We had 60lb dogs rip through 1"chicken wire with ease and Raccoons had zero problem getting through

 

[diana507]

@superchemicalgirl I know a few weeks ago you thought I was still ok with me barred rock in question being a girl. Just thought I would see what everyone thought now at 6 weeks.

 

[superchemicalgirl]

I'm thinking that first one's a roo now.

 

[woods79]

we got our chicks today

 

[diana507]

I'm thinking that first one's a roo now. 

Ya me too! Sucks cause I bought sexed pullets. When will I know for sure? Haven't heard any attempts for a crow yet.

 

[superchemicalgirl]

Ya me too! Sucks cause I bought sexed pullets. When will I know for sure? Haven't heard any attempts for a crow yet.

You'll begin to see saddle feathers in a bit. Or he may start to crow. I've had them attempt to crow as early as 4 days old (seriously) but most are a few weeks old.

 

[lazy gardener]

No but it'll last a lot longer if you do, look nicer, and, if painted dark, will help retain heat in the winter.

Personally, I like white in the coop. It reflects light better, makes that dull winter lighting a bit better... hopefully to encourage more eggs. I know that egg laying/hormone cycles are related to # of hours of day light, but IMO, a bright environment with lots of windows can't hurt!

I was looking through photos of Marans roosters last night and some of the Golden Cuckoos looked a lot like him as did the Birchens. I also read that the Marans with French lines have feathered legs whereas the English lines have clean legs. Who knows...he may not have any Marans in him at all but he is handsome. So far, I like his personality. Quiet, good with people and he was good to the girls he met after he was dumped. My friend said he just hid in the shrubs calling until they went to him. She has 4 hens and 6 pullets who haven't quite started laying yet and it was the pullets that went to him. She said he didn't try mating, he just wanted their company which is also appealing to me because my girls have been much more peaceful without a rooster around and my Hamburg is SO small, he'd hurt her if he tried. She also said when she would walk near him, he would step aside, not run away or at her. These are all appealing qualities to me.

I did notice when I checked on him last night that he was laying in the bedding instead of on his roost. I'm concerned that maybe his feet are too sore for him to want to be on the roost. I didn't get to look him over as well as I'd have liked with all the rain last night so I will tonight. Any suggestions on what to put on his legs/feet if they do have sores? And what might have caused it?

I was wondering if perhaps he'd been dumped out of a moving car, but your later posts indicated that to not be an issue. Have you had an opportunity to check his feet closely?

Get a bright LED light. I can spot moose in new Brunswick from central Maine with mine. Or sex chicks through the shell lol

I want one of your lights.

Hello again! I want to apologize ahead of time. I will probably have quite a few questions over the next few weeks as we finish up our run and get ready to put our chicks in. Is hardware cloth the only option/best option for the run?

Welcome! Re: hardware cloth vs: chicken wire... If you buy chicken wire, be sure it's galvanized. Staple it well. Don't use construction staples. Use fencing staples, or sandwich and screw as other poster suggested. I have no doubt that a determined dog or coon could rip through chicken wire. The way it's constructed with the strands being twisted together to make the hex pattern makes it prone to being torn apart. But, I've had a determined coon rip through galvanized and welded 1/2" hardware cloth when trapped in a live trap that was enlarged with hdw. cloth. He simply shredded it. IMO, it's best to keep your birds shut up in the coop at night, when the most likely predators are out and about. It all depends on your risk tolerance, and how deep your wallet is. IMO, if all openings in the coop are secured with hdw. cloth, that will keep almost everything out. Chicken wire will allow a weasel to "weasel" his way in. They will kill an entire flock in a single night, just for the sport of it. My run is CW. My coop is secured with hw. cloth. My baby hoop coop inner area is hw cloth. I have one tractor with CW, and one smaller one with hw. cloth. Skirts around run and hoop coop.