Making a coolerbator - questions

[BobMcDuff]

Making my own coolerbator and just had a couple of questions. I am figuring on using a 28qt cooler with 2 60w candelabra bulbs, 2 computer fans, and likely a tray with a small tube for humidity control (all of which are just parts I have laying around). My questions, since it is a rather deep cooler i was thinking of putting the fans, tray, and lights on bottom and then making a screen platform above to try and give a larger overall space for eggs. As long as the thermostat was at egg level, would this pose any problems? Also what sort of overall size would be best for "vents" I was thinking of putting two holes at each end of the lid roughly 1/2" in size. Would that be enough? Thanks for any help.

 

[jaredthefox]

I would install the fans so they will blow in a push pull effect. Not just blowing in the same direction. Two light bulbs are going to be to much for that size. You will only need 1. I assume you have a thermostat to control the light bulb and a humidistat to tell u humidity.

Here's my fridgeabator I built.

It takes one 100 watt ligh bulb to heat and maintain the temp in my fridgeabator

 

[BobMcDuff]

I have Semi-tested the heating portion with the two bulbs, it cycles quickly, light is on for about 20 seconds then off for about five minutes. Digital thermostat and do have a thermometer/humidistat. According to the thermostat the bulbs kick on around 99.3 and get upto 100.1 in that short time span. I had two fans, one blowing directly across the bulbs (which were shrouded, figuring as to not overheat the eggs in close proximity) and the other fan at the opposite end blowing diagonally upwards. The only reason i would prefer to keep two bulbs is because I want to put the bulbs down bottom and if one blows at least there is a backup . How big of a vent are you putting in that monster?

 

[dheltzel]

The big issue I see with the heat source below is if water were to drip down on the bulbs, or into the sockets. During hatching, you need high RH and that inevitably creates some condensation that drips. I made a coolerbator as a hatcher only (I have a cabinet incubator for the first 18 days) and so I'm particularly "tuned in" to the dripping effect. I also chose a heating element from ebay instead of light bulbs as they can burn out rather easily and (for me) there is substantial money at stake if the chicks are lost.

I'm explaining this so you can put my warning into proper perspective, you likely are willing to accept a bit more risk regarding the heating.

 

[jaredthefox]

I have Semi-tested the heating portion with the two bulbs, it cycles quickly, light is on for about 20 seconds then off for about five minutes.  Digital thermostat and do have a thermometer/humidistat.  According to the thermostat the bulbs kick on around 99.3 and get upto 100.1 in that short time span.  I had two fans, one blowing directly across the bulbs (which were shrouded, figuring as to not overheat the eggs in close proximity) and the other fan at the opposite end blowing diagonally upwards.  The only reason i would prefer to keep two bulbs is because I want to put the bulbs down bottom and if one blows at least there is a backup .  How big of a vent are you putting in that monster?

The refrigerator already had a vent hole connecting the freezer to the fridge. So I would guess 3"X2". But I like my humidity at 40% the first 15-18 days so I'm constantly opening up the door letting humidity out.

 

[jaredthefox]

Another thing about the heat. I only need 1 100 watt bulb. But I am also worried about bulbs burning out. So I put the 100 watt and a 60 watt. It takes about 2 minutes to go from 99.5 to 100.5 and stays off for 10 minutes.

 

[Fred's Hens]

I've built a bunch of these and have one up and running right now. I like two smaller watt bulbs rather than just one large. The burn out back up is certainly one important reason, for sure. One bulb will keep it going until you see the burnt out one.

I also like to have the two heat sources that double bulbs creates. This disperses the heat better. I find the that the thermostat is much more accurate if placed very, very close to one of the bulbs. The cycling happens much quicker and thus, the "swing" between high and low is very narrow.

I'm sure you've been on YouTube and seen the two dozen videos made by Rush Lane Poultry. I watched all of them and a few times, and each time I got slightly more details and ideas. Over the years, Wade Rush has been tweaking his builds and he makes a video for his new ideas as well.

I have three Omaha Steak-O-Bater boxes right now. #1 has two watt light bulbs and an auto egg turner #2 has the Incukit from Incubator Warehouse and #3 has a simple "Y" adapter, which turns one socket into two.

 

[Roxannemc]

I have Semi-tested the heating portion with the two bulbs, it cycles quickly, light is on for about 20 seconds then off for about five minutes.  Digital thermostat and do have a thermometer/humidistat.  According to the thermostat the bulbs kick on around 99.3 and get upto 100.1 in that short time span.  I had two fans, one blowing directly across the bulbs (which were shrouded, figuring as to not overheat the eggs in close proximity) and the other fan at the opposite end blowing diagonally upwards.  The only reason i would prefer to keep two bulbs is because I want to put the bulbs down bottom and if one blows at least there is a backup .  How big of a vent are you putting in that monster?

2 light bulbs is a safer idea.If one goes out. Other still warming the bator

 

[Roxannemc]

2 light bulbs is a safer idea.If one goes out. Other still warming the bator

On the bottom unless covered in some way won't you get poo and goo all over your parts possibly even water if chicks tip over your humidity tray?
Rush Lane Poultry videos are the ultimate bomb in coolerbators... wiring and cabinet bators