Metal corrugated roof! Ugh...

[Judy Todd]

I will add pictures tomorrow for sure but wanted to start getting advice now as it's supposed to rain tomorrow night which will make more moisture! Yes I love my ducks but am regretting them too as they are not helping my issue! More ventilation has not improved things in the least bit, but will get out the drill if I need to. Thanks!

One thing that helped, I moved the waterer to the outside with a heater to keep it from freezing. The ducks just made such a wet mess. So, that did help. I am regretting the ducks also, maybe giving them away. Difficult in cold weather.

 

[featherhead007]

One thing that helped, I moved the waterer to the outside with a heater to keep it from freezing. The ducks just made such a wet mess. So, that did help. I am regretting the ducks also, maybe giving them away. Difficult in cold weather.

I have to give you credit for having ducks in the first place! I had 2 many years ago. too hard to keep.

 

[Mybackyardpeepers]

One thing that helped, I moved the waterer to the outside with a heater to keep it from freezing. The ducks just made such a wet mess. So, that did help. I am regretting the ducks also, maybe giving them away. Difficult in cold weather.

I put their (chicken and ducks) heated bowl in a rubber bowl. Has cut down a lot on the wetness. I couldn't get rid of them now that I raised them, unless it was necessary.

 

[Folly's place]

Cute as ducks are, they do need separate housing. I remind myself, every time I see them, especially those adorable little Calls!
Mary

 

[Judy Todd]

Finally seeing the pics!
Your problem is you have nearly ZERO ventilation! That little window and the pop door isn't even close to enough. Those little 2" holes aren't helping either. It would be good to cut a couple of 6"x24" (or however many inches you have between studs) and cover them with hardware cloth. Put a few of these up high within a few inches of the roof. Put a couple of them on the opposite well a few inches above the floor. If you have no eaves, and you're worried about rain/snow coming in, build a little plastic or metal louver for each vent.
Just like a glass of iced soda, condensation will form on the warm outside of the glass. But with an insulated coop without enough ventilation, that metal roof is gonna sweat on the warm side, the inside of the coop. Open up some ventilation so that the inside and outside temps are about the same and the humidity is not greater on the inside than the outside. That, will solve you problem without a bunch more insulation or any flexible spray caulking in a can.
Maybe @aart can explain it better. He's good like that! It's about keeping interior humidity/temps within a few percentage points of outside.

I totally agree , not enough ventilation. I have a metal roof, installled at a slant. Two big windows between studs one on each wall, 4 inch gape along top of wall on 2 sides front to back of coop, all covered with hardware cloth. No moisture inside, once I moved the waterer. I have 13 chickens and 3 ducks, no far all dry, in rainy NW.

 

[chickencoop57]

All my hens have names like that! Beetov-Hen, Hen-Rietta, Rocket, Rocks-Ann, Etc.

Lol, cool! I guess in time I learn which one is which, too.

 

[Mybackyardpeepers]

I have to give you credit for having ducks in the first place! I had 2 many years ago. too hard to keep.

I got begged into taking a SN Pekin baby, then got it a kahki friend. Had to surrender Pekin to a duck rescue/sanctuary. HAD to get kahki a friend which turned into 2 tiny winny Muscovy babies! Now I just love them.

 

[nbryan]

An air space directly below the metal sheets with a vapor barrier, and that air space open to the outside at the eaves, will solve the condensation issue as well as afford some insulating value - how much r-value depends on what you build the barrier with.
In my example I applied Reflectix (brand) insulating wrap to the rafters, taped all seams, then came the 1x4 roof strap perlins then metal roof sheets. Exterior air can circulate through the gable edges between the metal roof and insulation, clearing any moisture that may leak into the 3/4" space from the coop below.
Reflectix, if you're unfamiliar, is like 1/4" thick smooth bubble-pack with each side coated with aluminum foil. It's R-value is best with an air space between it and any sheathing.
I also covered the inside of my coop rafters with chicken fencing too, to keep the birds from pecking apart the shiny aluminum foil from the inside.
In your case, taping Reflectix strips between each rafter on the inside against the 2x4 straps (leaves 1 1/2" air space) making sure to tape seal the edges well (tuck tape?) to the rafters, would give you R-value and vapor barrier. Then the trick will be to drill a few vent holes, at both the exterior "gable" walls between the roofing perlin 2x4s, through to exterior air, and cover with a bit of bug screen to keep them from plugging up the vent space. A 3/4" spade bit, with 3-4 holes per space, would work.
See photo, how I built my a-frame coop. The reflectix also helps in summer, keeping the heat down a bit inside.

 

[Judy Todd]

Be absolutely sure whether or not you need roofing paper between the plywood sheeting and the metal roof. Decades age I was a roofer for a while and I think that this is true. Also raising the metal off the wood/paper might provide needed moisture control.

I am only part way thru the msgs (page 2) so this may have been discussed ... from your pictures it appears that your roof is flat. Is so, it could help enormously if you elevated one end. Also some spacing for ventilation at the metal roof ends; maybe an on edge 2x4 with 2 or 3" thru holes (cover with screen).

Your coop guy didn't do you any favors.

Agree completely, my metal roof is slanted, no moisture problem.

 

[featherhead007]

An air space directly below the metal sheets with a vapor barrier, and that air space open to the outside at the eaves, will solve the condensation issue as well as afford some insulating value - how much r-value depends on what you build the barrier with.
In my example I applied Reflectix (brand) insulating wrap to the rafters, taped all seams, then came the 1x4 roof strap perlins then metal roof sheets. Exterior air can circulate through the gable edges between the metal roof and insulation, clearing any moisture that may leak into the 3/4" space from the coop below.
Reflectix, if you're unfamiliar, is like 1/4" thick smooth bubble-pack with each side coated with aluminum foil. It's R-value is best with an air space between it and any sheathing.
I also covered the inside of my coop rafters with chicken fencing too, to keep the birds from pecking apart the shiny aluminum foil from the inside.
In your case, taping Reflectix strips between each rafter on the inside against the 2x4 straps (leaves 1 1/2" air space) making sure to tape seal the edges well (tuck tape?) to the rafters, would give you R-value and vapor barrier. Then the trick will be to drill a few vent holes, at both the exterior "gable" walls between the roofing perlin 2x4s, through to exterior air, and cover with a bit of bug screen to keep them from plugging up the vent space. A 3/4" spade bit, with 3-4 holes per space, would work.
See photo, how I built my a-frame coop. The reflectix also helps in summer, keeping the heat down a bit inside.View attachment 1971103

You built a Darth Vador coop! WoW!