Metal corrugated roof! Ugh...

[Mybackyardpeepers]

I have used card board as an insulator for the roof in the past to prevent dampness. I wanted to put down a thin plywood when we build our roof, but my spouse did not want the added expense. Metal roofs will heat and cool quickly in the winter causing the issue. The cardboard seems to slow down the process and reduce the wet. I have a lot of airflow between the roof and cardboard, so my damp is minimal at best.

Great idea, thanks!

 

[Mybackyardpeepers]

From vanlife living and having some experience with insulating a metal box from moisture building up inside the best insulation I’ve come across that I think would help significantly is a product called LizardSkin ceramic insulation. (Amazon) It’s a spray on product that requires an air compressor and special spray gun but bonds to the metal and prevents moisture, you’ll want to do it when the surface is clean and dry and you’ll want all animals removed from the space until completely dry. Also with ventilation you need an intake and exhaust vents for proper flow so vents at the top and bottom of a wall of the coop so there’s circulation of air flow and warm air doesn’t get trapped up near the roof.

Thanks for the suggestion, putting more ventilation in already.

 

[Mybackyardpeepers]

High humidity meeting low temperature causes condensation. Lowering humidity requires dry air replacing moister air. Merely increasing ventilation won’t solve it, or air conditioning would not work. You can dehumidify air, probably not practical, or keep moist air away from cold tin roof. Spray on insulating foam covering the metal room on the inside, covered with a vapor barrier, should dramatically reduce condensation. Increase ventilation if incoming air is lower humidity than internal air.

I have started the flex seal (which is working) and am securing up styrofoam sheets over.

 

[aart]

I have started the flex seal (which is working) and am securing up styrofoam sheets over.

Might be interesting not to cover the whole roof with the styro...so you can see how the flexseal preforms.

 

[Mybackyardpeepers]

We have a metal roof. DH put vents high on one wall and low on the opposite wall to create a natural thermal updraft. We also have a roof deck under the metal, plus some insulation. But the moisture needs a place to go, and it will drip if there's not the right kind of or enough ventilation. If the roof is slanted you need your vents up as high as you can on the tallest wall. I wouldn't think you'd want to spray foam under the roof - the moist (warmer) air could escape nicely there IF it's higher than the rest of the roof. Keep us posted, and remember, dry air is better than warm air - these girls can stand a lot of cold - I am in northern WI and while my ladies complain bitterly about the white stuff they just go where they usually go and are just fine.

Unfortunately the way I had him set my coop (which way it faces) I cannot put the vents on the tallest wall. Our first snow we got, the snow stuck exactly where I would of had the vents. My main entrance faces the west, I didn't think placement through to well.

 

[Mybackyardpeepers]

Might be interesting not to cover the whole roof with the styro...so you can see how the flexseal preforms.

Sounds great. Thanks for all your help and advice!

 

[Mybackyardpeepers]

I have racing pigeons, their loft has 3" openings at the roof ( covered with 1/4" wire ). The air can enter at the back and exit at the front. It does not bother the pigeons because the movement is all at roof level.

This is how I would have to do mine.

 

[Mybackyardpeepers]

I live in Chicago, and the coop we had used the wavy corregated metal~~~~~~ so there was a lot of air ventilation. It was a good pitch (4/12) running with the ribbing. Overlapping the ends with about 6-8 inches. Gutter on short wall side. Lots of windows for natural light. Sollid wall on one side, wrapping 1/2 way back on each side with solid wall. Insulated and recovered solid wall structure, but didn't close off the roof to wall anywhere. We did not have any condensation issues. The only issue was like last year when it got -20° F out I had to bring them in for warmth so the didn't get frostbite. First year I had to do that in my five years. Also during cold winter I put up plastic over the windows. Closing off any drafts and it added a barrier for the cold as well. The wavy holes on the roof ventilation I left alone.

I had to spray foam the front gaps as he didn't leave ANY over hang and rain/snow came right in. He did overlap the seams (shocker) the only reason I have Windows is because I bought them and he installed them.

 

[Mybackyardpeepers]

They have bird brains. The try to eat anything they can see and will fit. They will give up on inedible items, but usually after they try. Except my coop galoshes. They peck at those all the time. Maybe they only want to play.....

But yes, if they can reach it, or even flap up to it, they will try to eat it or hang on to it, I worry about staples, and such. Just watch...

They will be unable to reach it unless I don't secure it right. Thanks.

 

[Mybackyardpeepers]

I bbuilt a cicken house 2 ears using etel roof and what I did was ut my rafters on ede and not flat. I then took 1/4 inch Hardware cloth and laced over the oenings obetween roof and siding. I did this on each end and on the drip edge of roof. I put a 4-- 12 pitch on m roof. I live in a high humidity area and never had any any sweating. My suggestion is to cut 3inch high slots about 3 to 4 inches from your studs and about 3 inches down from sealplates, do that between each stud. oin the summer time each end of your house. this will give a heat release in summer time and cross venelation year round. and a cooling efffect during hot months. This should eleminate the sweeting. What you have now doesnot allow the moisture to escape.

Will do, thanks. And welcome to the BYC flock!!!