It is that time of year when people start thinking about the upcoming evil side of nature. Winter.
With it comes the questions of heating, lighting, watering and frostbite.
1) HEATING: Even in the cold of the Michigan UP there is no real reason to heat your coop. Most who do choose to heat do so for their own piece of mind more so than for the benefit of the flock. The cons of supplemental heat outweigh the pros. Hopefully the chickens you have are a winter hardy breed.
The coop should be as draft-free as possible but still allowing for air flow. Fresh air in and stale air out. Vents at or near the peak of the coop help to eliminate ammonia build up. Ammonia from feces can cause respiratory issues and it stinks. If you smell ammonia you need a good coop cleaning.
The coop should be as water-tight as possible also. No roof leaks, no bad walls that allow wind-driven rain or snow into the coop. Moisture in the coop is bad. Moist coop and cooler temperatures can result in frostbite. Combs can become frostbitten at moderate temperature (~40' F) if there is a lot of moisture. Don't use a water fount that allows the combs to get wet when the bird drinks.
2) WATERERS: To heat or not is mostly a matter of convenience. If you can, change the water 2 or 3 times a day. Having a few extra founts makes the chore easier. If you have a long haul to the coop or work then consider using a heated fount, there are several available commercially. If you opt to make one yourself such as a cookie tin heater, please make sure that you know what you are doing. Consider a Thermocube or submersible heater that only comes on at a certain temperature or below.
3) LIGHTING: Some people believe that hens need 14 hours of light to continue to lay eggs. So supplemental lighting is added. Keep two (2) things in mind. Science determined that light need for hens raised in battery conditions where the birds never see the outdoors in their short lives. Our backyard birds get outside every day so they have a natural rhythm and are going to lay less during the winter. Part of that is less daylight and part is fewer natural foods available, ie. no worms, seeds, bugs and the like. Let your hens have a rest during the winter.
If you do need to add lighting, put in a timer that has the light come on in the early morning before natural daybreak. If the light is on after dusk some birds may not find their spot on the roost when the light suddenly turns off.
4) FROSTBITE: Moisture, high humidity and cool conditions are the big factors. Combs and wattles are susceptible if they get wet from drinking or rain or snow and the air temperature is below 40 degrees or so. Keep your coop and birds dry. Petroleum jelly can be slathered on as a preventative.
ELECTRICITY: If you need to plug anything into an electrical outlet, make certain that the cords are secured so that the chickens cannot get to them. If you have a heat lamp hanging make certain that it is triple secured and cannot be knocked down. Don't use cheapo clamp fixtures, get properly rated fixtures, use sturdy chain or wire to secure the fixture. If it produces heat it has the potential to start a fire. Be aware!
It is a good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy just in case. Two or three is even better.
However you decide to care for your flock in winter is ultimately up to you. Chickens have survived just fine for 8000 years on their own but remember that the health and safety of a kept flock is your responsibility.
I hope this helps people who are new to chicken keeping and is a reminder to the more experienced folks. Please ask questions and/or refute what I have mentioned.
[/quot you have answered about every question i have had. Thanks for all of your knowledge and experience and thank you for taking the time to impart that wisdom!
. Most of them fled to under the front porch where the 2 month old chicks were hanging out.
