Mountain Ledge coop 95% done - advice needed

[NHMountainMan]

I've attached a series of pictures, though I have no idea in what order they may appear.
Photo's include the house in the back, as the Mrs insisted the coop had to look good, as it's the first thing visible as you come up the driveway. Thankful, we had lots of left over building material from when our house was built.

It was a 6 month project. After cancer, knee and hip replacements - this imperfect mess was huge for me. I built most of it in the basement and got lots of help assembling on site.
Got some advice on this site on the run and door. Used some leftover concrete pavers to build the entrance and then have some lumber that drops into place to prevent anything small from sneaking or chewing through the door bottom. Windows, I found at the dump. As some of the coop's top corner connections aren't as tight as I'd like, I put hardware cloth inside the roof rafters so that anything that might creep in, cannot get at the chickens.

I bought the Ador1 pop door - and love it. The pullets figured it out in 2 nights. First night- 1/2 couldn't get in before the door shut, and I reopened. The second night, and every night since - all tucked away nicely.

Here's where I need some advice from the pro's on here:

1. Roosting bars. I ran a 2x4 on one side, and an excess stair rail on the other. I didn't know about poop boards. The coop is 8'L x6'W x 6'T (3 additional feet at the peak.) There is only 18" of width between the door frame and each side.

• How High can I place the roosting bars. Can some be above window height?
• How much space does chicken need on the roosting bar?
• Can I run a poop board down each side, and have 2x4 roosting boards mounted perpendicular. If so - how many chickens would fit on an 18' bar? How much space between the 2x4s?
• Can I mount roosting bars / poop board above the nest box entrance (across from the entrance door - covered right now - pullets only 13 weeks old

2. Stairs - I bought risers to build stair in. Questioning that now. Stairs make it harder to get a wheelbarrow close to the entrance, but easier for me to get in to scrape the poop boards and sand.

3. Surrounding space - the forest is creeping close to the run - should I cut back to create a bigger buffer zone?

4. Insulation- I opted not to insulate. The building is wrapped, so pretty windproof. Our winter typically get a week or 2 or well below zero and wind chills in the 40-50 below. I plan of covering the windows with plastic, and leave the top vents open as appropriate. If it gets warm, I'll peel off the plastic on the side that has wind protection. I've bought chickens that are supposed to be cold hardy - barred rock, buff orp, New Hampshire, and golden buffs. There will be 12 chickens in there this winter. I have it wired, and can add light and heated water - could add some heat too if needed.

• should I add insulation, or see how it goes?

Lastly - any other advice on something I haven't thought of - or screwed up?

Thank you!

 

[Hobbits Mommie]

I wouldn't put the roosts over the nexting boxes (that defeats keeping your eggs clean). We have 3 roosts, staggered and put little stair ramps connecting them so they can use them if they like and they did when they were little. Now that they're full grown, they just fly up and height doesn't seem to be an issue. They all prefer the highest bar.

We used 2 x 6's for the roosting bars, but I've heard that they prefer something round as opposed to square. Each chicken would probably need about a foot, however mine all tend to huddle together. Also, they love to roost when outdoors too.

 

[NHMountainMan]

I wouldn't put the roosts over the nexting boxes (that defeats keeping your eggs clean). We have 3 roosts, staggered and put little stair ramps connecting them so they can use them if they like and they did when they were little. Now that they're full grown, they just fly up and height doesn't seem to be an issue. They all prefer the highest bar.

We used 2 x 6's for the roosting bars, but I've heard that they prefer something round as opposed to square. Each chicken would probably need about a foot, however mine all tend to huddle together. Also, they love to roost when outdoors too.

Thx for the pics and advice. As the nesting box is external - attached to the side - is cleanliness still and issue?

 

[Hobbits Mommie]

Thx for the pics and advice. As the nesting box is external - attached to the side - is cleanliness still and issue?

As long as they are recessed, and the droppings don't make contact with the eggs, you should be good.

 

[jthornton]

You want roosts to be > 12" from any wall. I doubt that ladder will do much for chickens, they can fly almost straight up. Coming back down is another story, they need space to fly down at a 45° and room to stop. Without that they need some steps to hop down from step to step or a ramp or a combination or lots of room to fly down.

I'm guessing the challenge was to use as many 2x4's as possible , I've never seen such a sturdy chicken coop and well built chicken fort knox!

JT

 

[NHMountainMan]

You want roosts to be > 12" from any wall. I doubt that ladder will do much for chickens, they can fly almost straight up. Coming back down is another story, they need space to fly down at a 45° and room to stop. Without that they need some steps to hop down from step to step or a ramp or a combination or lots of room to fly down.

I'm guessing the challenge was to use as many 2x4's as possible , I've never seen such a sturdy chicken coop and well built chicken fort knox!

JT

thanks - great advice as always. Did not know that the ladder was for climbing down. I'll definitely rethink that. The 12' from the wall - that's in front and behind the chicken, right? could I have 18" roost bars come out from the side walls?

 

[PirateGirl]

In terms of roost bars, JT is right, 12" from the wall (and ceiling). This gives birds space to get up/down/turn around. Also if you have LF the general rule is about a foot of roost space per bird. When it's hot (or they hate their flock mate) they will spread out more, and when it's cold, they might bunch up more. On an 18" roost, you might get two birds at most. Bantams will utilize a bit less space overall.

 

[PirateGirl]

Also, try to position your roosts lower than you windows if you can so that there is not a breeze blowing directly on the birds. I'm assuming it's hot where you are at right now, based on the large open windows in your design and the coop can be closed up more at night or in winter.

 

[so lucky]

I use a stump in my coop near the highest roost. The chickens like to use it to come off the roost, and some use it to go up on the roost.
Also, you can allow about a foot of roost per bird, but they will all squish into much less than that, and all together, most likely, in spite of our good intentions.

 

[aart]

3 things that stand out right away:
-are your soffits open for winter ventilation?
-can the latch on the run door be opened from inside?
-that ladder to the roosts is unusable.

Suggestions.
Put your poop board just above the nests, 3.5-4' deep with roosts spaced 12" from wall and 18" apart. Feed and water hung underneath poop board. That'll give you 12' of roost length. Tho a 6x8' coop is tight for 12 birds in your climate.

Think about snow management...around run door and especially the run roof.
It would be good to put a solid roof on the whole run, and put up some plastic on 3 sides to block wind and snow. This will give them more space than just the coop during the nasty days of winter.
That board thing in front of run door is not necessary, and will be unmanageable in the winter, if your paver threshold goes into run.

I made a 'patio/threshold' in front of and under the door. The chooks dug underneath it. So I added the row of bricks. They dug underneath it. So I added the 2x8x16" pavers on edge and anchored them in with rebar. That has worked well so far.