- Jun 4, 2011
- 75
- 2
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in addition to the already suggested: Triple antibiotic or terramycin eye ointment. VetRx for poultry. Dried meal worms.
"Must-Haves" for the Beginner
- Thread starter Breifne
- Start date
what type of hens do you have coming?
Hen essentials:-
1 - Mealworms
2 - Mealworms
3 - Mealworms
4 - Mealworms
5- to be on the safe side I would add probably some more mealworms
What my chickens won't do for a scattering of mealworms isn't worth knowing about.
Good luck with your hens, it's always exciting setting up; just don't forget .... mealworms
1 - Mealworms
2 - Mealworms
3 - Mealworms
4 - Mealworms
5- to be on the safe side I would add probably some more mealworms
What my chickens won't do for a scattering of mealworms isn't worth knowing about.
Good luck with your hens, it's always exciting setting up; just don't forget .... mealworms
My bare essentials list
Blukote
Neosporin minus the pain ingred.( wounds and you can use for injures as well)
ACV(unfiltered,raw apple cider vinegar, I order online)
Poultry Grit (Free choice)
Oyster Shell (free choice)
Some I use hanging feeders and waterers, other I just use the plastic ones and set them on bricks or blocks
Extra bedding( i use pine shavings NO cedar it causes respiratory problems
18% or higher crumbles (I have a lot of Bantam breeds so they wont eat the pellets)
Scratch for a treat in the winter (high calorie low protein no complete meal)
DE ( this a preventive not a cure for worms, mites or lice but as 19% calcium and other good minerals so I use it on the feed and the bedding)
Blukote
Neosporin minus the pain ingred.( wounds and you can use for injures as well)
ACV(unfiltered,raw apple cider vinegar, I order online)
Poultry Grit (Free choice)
Oyster Shell (free choice)
Some I use hanging feeders and waterers, other I just use the plastic ones and set them on bricks or blocks
Extra bedding( i use pine shavings NO cedar it causes respiratory problems
18% or higher crumbles (I have a lot of Bantam breeds so they wont eat the pellets)
Scratch for a treat in the winter (high calorie low protein no complete meal)
DE ( this a preventive not a cure for worms, mites or lice but as 19% calcium and other good minerals so I use it on the feed and the bedding)
Quote:
LOL. yes if you want entertainment just throw down a couple less meal worms then there are chickens and watch. They dont fight...just play keep away with them.
LOL. yes if you want entertainment just throw down a couple less meal worms then there are chickens and watch. They dont fight...just play keep away with them.
Containers to hold all of your coop/chicken essentials close to the coop. Makes feeding and cleaning a whole lot easier. Maybe a couple of suet holders attached to fencing for holding veggies/snacks in. I have a few place around from each other so there is no arguing. I have 3 different age groups and the big girls try to push their weight around when there is treats to be had. Good luck and have fun
- Thread starter
- #17
Quote:
We've decided on a Black Rock, a Bluebell, a Copper Star, a Fenton Blue, and a Speckledy Maran (one of each).
We've decided on a Black Rock, a Bluebell, a Copper Star, a Fenton Blue, and a Speckledy Maran (one of each).
- Thread starter
- #18
Fantastic suggestions so far!
In addition to D.E., what will best keep the pests (lice & mites) at bay?
In addition to D.E., what will best keep the pests (lice & mites) at bay?
In my personal opinion, the best way to keep the pests at bay is to keep the coop clean and ventilated. If the birds are happy and healthy, they'll be less susceptible to the nasties. Make sure they have clean litter, clean water (ideally with a bit of apple cider vinegar, so I've been told) and LOTS and LOTS of ventilation.
Be prepared to lock the new girls in for the first few days to week so that they get used to the coop and learn that it's "home" - this way they'll go back to the coop on their own at night, so you won't have to chase them down! I feed mine several times a day during this period, so they learn to associate me with food. Now my older girls come running as soon as they see me!
Treats are also great during this initial period - oatmeal, grapes, lettuce, cooked pasta, yogurt, etc. Mine get most of our leftovers.
Depending on your management plan (pen, free range, etc) you may want to clip their wings. My girls have been known to try to go visit the neighbors (over a 6-foot fence), and before I clipped their wings they were absolutely capable. Grab them by the feet, turn them upside-down and wait - they'll calm down in a few seconds to a minute, and spread their wings out for you. Just clip the outermost row of feathers. They'll still be able to hop (mine can still get up onto a roost 3 feet off the ground) but they won't be able to get over the fence.
I recommend a fishing net or poultry hook to catch any escapees (it happens to the best of us every once in a while!)
Everything I've heard on oyster shell and grit is that they are "as needed" equipment. If your hens free range, they will pick up pebbles and sand from the dirt as necessary. If they are in a pen without a dirt floor, grit should be provided. Oyster shell is supplemental calcium used to toughen up eggshells. I have never had a thin-shelled egg, so I don't offer it to my hens. I do, however, keep eggshells so that I can provide these to the girls as a calcium substitute if it ever becomes necessary.
I haven't been doing this too long, but that's the wisdom I've collected from all of the old-timers that I've talked to.
Good luck, and HAVE FUN!! Don't let yourself get too stressed over it all - they're hardy critters and they'll do just fine.
Be prepared to lock the new girls in for the first few days to week so that they get used to the coop and learn that it's "home" - this way they'll go back to the coop on their own at night, so you won't have to chase them down! I feed mine several times a day during this period, so they learn to associate me with food. Now my older girls come running as soon as they see me!
Treats are also great during this initial period - oatmeal, grapes, lettuce, cooked pasta, yogurt, etc. Mine get most of our leftovers.
Depending on your management plan (pen, free range, etc) you may want to clip their wings. My girls have been known to try to go visit the neighbors (over a 6-foot fence), and before I clipped their wings they were absolutely capable. Grab them by the feet, turn them upside-down and wait - they'll calm down in a few seconds to a minute, and spread their wings out for you. Just clip the outermost row of feathers. They'll still be able to hop (mine can still get up onto a roost 3 feet off the ground) but they won't be able to get over the fence.
I recommend a fishing net or poultry hook to catch any escapees (it happens to the best of us every once in a while!)
Everything I've heard on oyster shell and grit is that they are "as needed" equipment. If your hens free range, they will pick up pebbles and sand from the dirt as necessary. If they are in a pen without a dirt floor, grit should be provided. Oyster shell is supplemental calcium used to toughen up eggshells. I have never had a thin-shelled egg, so I don't offer it to my hens. I do, however, keep eggshells so that I can provide these to the girls as a calcium substitute if it ever becomes necessary.
I haven't been doing this too long, but that's the wisdom I've collected from all of the old-timers that I've talked to.
Good luck, and HAVE FUN!! Don't let yourself get too stressed over it all - they're hardy critters and they'll do just fine.
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