I used to use a turkey fryer to scald. But, the temperature was impossible to regulate, with the lack of insulation in the pot, the fact that it would drop as soon as you put one chicken in, no temperature controls, etc. So, I bought the "Anyone can make a Whizbang Chicken Scalder," but found that Kimball's scalder was still really expensive, and had extra features that I didn't need- come on, do you really need a motor that AUTOMATICALLY dunks the birds?? Don't get me wrong, Kimball is a GREAT author, and his plans are by far the best I've seen for anything I've built from plans- and that's saying a lot. But, his plans are easy to modify for your own needs, and here's what I did. You probably won't be able to build your own from my plan alone, you'll still need the book, but for a couple hundred bucks, you can have a really nice scalder, that will hold temperatures within one degree, is easy to move and easy to clean.
I started out with a water heater, and cut it in half then removed the top. The beauty of a water heater is that it's fully insulated, it has a drain, and it already has all the holes you need for precise temperature controls. I then had a welder friend fix the chimney so it didn't come right up the middle- I couldn't find a short, fat water heater, so I had to do this to make room for dunking.
I put concrete in the bottom- the bottom of a water heater is convex- so the drain really isn't on the bottom. You have to level it out with concrete, so when you drain it, all the chicken gunk gets cleaned out.
I made the frame out of 3/4" plywood and 2x4's, with a 1/2" steel rod for an axle and some big lawnmower tires. It won't be moveable when full, but without water, it should be no problem.
To be continued soon..........
I started out with a water heater, and cut it in half then removed the top. The beauty of a water heater is that it's fully insulated, it has a drain, and it already has all the holes you need for precise temperature controls. I then had a welder friend fix the chimney so it didn't come right up the middle- I couldn't find a short, fat water heater, so I had to do this to make room for dunking.
I put concrete in the bottom- the bottom of a water heater is convex- so the drain really isn't on the bottom. You have to level it out with concrete, so when you drain it, all the chicken gunk gets cleaned out.
I made the frame out of 3/4" plywood and 2x4's, with a 1/2" steel rod for an axle and some big lawnmower tires. It won't be moveable when full, but without water, it should be no problem.
To be continued soon..........