Need construction advice for huge shelf

[woodworm]

Agree with @Captain13

Post pic when it's done!

 

[BarnyardChaos]

Fortunately, there are some imperfections in the ceiling that clearly indicate where some of the ceiling joists are located Plus a ceiling fan, where I might locate one or both joists around the junction box. With those and a stud-finder, should be easy-peasy!
Thank you both again. I've cleared the whole plan with my husband (disabled, no physical help but he's supportive), and it's a GO. I will post pics!

 

[Captain13]

If I were up there, I’d give you a hand. You may want to buy some small turnbuckles to use when you attach the wire or chain to your shelves. You turn the turnbuckle center to increase or decrease the wire length so you can level the shelf.

They look like this:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-H...num-Steel-Hook-And-Hook-Turnbuckle/1000390667

 

[BarnyardChaos]

If I were up there, I’d give you a hand. You may want to buy some small turnbuckles to use when you attach the wire or chain to your shelves. You turn the turnbuckle center to increase or decrease the wire length so you can level the shelf.

They look like this:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-H...num-Steel-Hook-And-Hook-Turnbuckle/1000390667

Thank you! I have put those on screen doors and wooden gates to keep them square.

 

[perkolator]

All thread is simpler to me with less parts, but the eye-bolts and cable system should work just fine if you won't want to go into the attic space. You could also use hooks and chain, which may be easier and cost less than all the parts for making cable ends without a crimper for ferrules. They can run vertical to the ceiling or angle to the back wall.
For that lightish weight load you can likely get away with using 2x3 lumber instead of 2x4, to gain another inch of storage space, and probably only need 1/2" plywood for the sheeting.
Good luck!

 

[BarnyardChaos]

All thread is simpler to me with less parts, but the eye-bolts and cable system should work just fine if you won't want to go into the attic space. You could also use hooks and chain, which may be easier and cost less than all the parts for making cable ends without a crimper for ferrules. They can run vertical to the ceiling or angle to the back wall.
For that lightish weight load you can likely get away with using 2x3 lumber instead of 2x4, to gain another inch of storage space, and probably only need 1/2" plywood for the sheeting.
Good luck!

I planned to use wire rope clips

that can be tightened with a wrench. I'm familiar with those and the guidelines to install the cable safely. (Two per connection point, to bare cable.) Or maybe just chain. I like that I can adjust the tension with the clips, or can use a tensioner. Thank you, too for your help!

 

[perkolator]

Yep, those are what you'd use instead of ferrules. I just suggested the chain since it seems many people who post questions here are on a tighter budget. Good luck with the project.

 

[BarnyardChaos]

Yep, those are what you'd use instead of ferrules. I just suggested the chain since it seems many people who post questions here are on a tighter budget. Good luck with the project.

I may switch to chain if I suffer sticker shock!

 

[BarnyardChaos]

the shelf is DONE and ready for storage. As promised, here's some photos of the process:

The framework going up and eye bolt lag screws in place. I was surprised to find the ceiling is just lath and plaster, too - and that the joists run parallel to the shelf, not perpendicular. So by adding two screw/cable supports, at least the weight is divided and supported nearer both ends of the same joist instead of all in the middle. They are evenly spaced 45" from walls and 45" apart. If I were unsure about it (I'm not), I could add another steel cable to each one, angled back to the next joist:

I located and marked all of the studs, and used cabinet screws for extra security:

I opted to use joist hangers for the front support board, because the end supports would have had only one stud in the middle and in the back corners to support them. To make them long enough to reach the front studs, I had to put the front support board in-between them:

Cut out a piece of molding from both sides of the window:

Steel cables are in place. Marks and holes in the ceiling are to measure and be certain I was drilling into the center of the joist. I probed to find both sides of the joist, then marked the center to drill. Those eye screws are 4-1/2" long. I tightened the cables by wedging a 2x4 underneath to push the front support board up a bit. Covered the ends in duct tape to match, and voila. Shelf boards laid, and a 1x6 face board added for appearance. I left just 1/4" lip above the shelf, to prevent things rolling off but not so much that it would make it hard to pull things down:

Couple of 2x4 spacers to support the face board:

Some hole patching, primer and paint --- and it's DONE!

I forgot to patch and paint *before* installing shelf boards. Oops. Oh well, it won't be seen anyway and I can do it (with some acrobatics) later when we paint the rest of the room:

And yes, that shelf is perfectly level and plumb to the magnetic axis of the earth, if not to the ceiling and floors (both noticeably UNlevel).

And just in case you're wondering, we have another freezer for chicken, fish, wild game and other miscellaneous - against the right hand wall. That refrigerator on the left is for eggs and beverages.
Looks pretty good, if I do say so myself!

 

[Captain13]

the shelf is DONE and ready for storage. As promised, here's some photos of the process:

The framework going up and eye bolt lag screws in place. I was surprised to find the ceiling is just lath and plaster, too - and that the joists run parallel to the shelf, not perpendicular. So by adding two screw/cable supports, at least the weight is divided and supported nearer both ends of the same joist instead of all in the middle. They are evenly spaced 45" from walls and 45" apart. If I were unsure about it (I'm not), I could add another steel cable to each one, angled back to the next joist:
View attachment 3664712


I located and marked all of the studs, and used cabinet screws for extra security:
View attachment 3664715

I opted to use joist hangers for the front support board, because the end supports would have had only one stud in the middle and in the back corners to support them. To make them long enough to reach the front studs, I had to put the front support board in-between them:
View attachment 3664719


Cut out a piece of molding from both sides of the window:
View attachment 3664723

Steel cables are in place. Marks and holes in the ceiling are to measure and be certain I was drilling into the center of the joist. I probed to find both sides of the joist, then marked the center to drill. Those eye screws are 4-1/2" long. I tightened the cables by wedging a 2x4 underneath to push the front support board up a bit. Covered the ends in duct tape to match, and voila. Shelf boards laid, and a 1x6 face board added for appearance. I left just 1/4" lip above the shelf, to prevent things rolling off but not so much that it would make it hard to pull things down:
View attachment 3664730


Couple of 2x4 spacers to support the face board:
View attachment 3664751

Some hole patching, primer and paint --- and it's DONE!
View attachment 3664753

I forgot to patch and paint *before* installing shelf boards. Oops. Oh well, it won't be seen anyway and I can do it (with some acrobatics) later when we paint the rest of the room:
View attachment 3664760

View attachment 3664755

And yes, that shelf is perfectly level and plumb to the magnetic axis of the earth, if not to the ceiling and floors (both noticeably UNlevel).
View attachment 3664756

And just in case you're wondering, we have another freezer for chicken, fish, wild game and other miscellaneous - against the right hand wall. That refrigerator on the left is for eggs and beverages.
Looks pretty good, if I do say so myself!

Great job. You are the bomb. Glad you figured it out. Great pics, too.