Need help training a 11 month old Labradoodle

Sounds like you have a handful lol. First for the jumping a knee into his chest every time he jumps on you will work wonders. (please note that everybody in the home must do this and also schedule some "guest visits" with your friends so he figures out it is everybody not just you who will not tolerate this)

Second whenever he wants attention, to go out the door, dinner, whatever by making him sit and wait will help him calm down and deal with an exciting situation better. Just be firm once you give a command and MAKE him do it. If you say sit and he doesn't or does and immediately gets back up then you must use you hands and enforce the sit by pushing his butt back to the floor. This may take a lot of time and patients or it may take only a few times, depends on the dog. But remember the reward is not an option until he does the command.

Walking on the leash is also a fun one. The gentle leaders do work, BUT they tend to get smart to them, they will walk like and Angel for you with them on but then once you try to "graduate" to walking without it they tend to just start pulling again. I would recommend a well fitted choke collar or a slip lead. Place the collar or lead right at the top of the dogs neck directly behind the ears (like you see at dog shows) This is where you have the most control. I can walk any of my dogs with 1 finger and never have a problem. Also if your dog is distracted and trying to drag you or you just don't feel like he is paying attention to you you can implement the "about turn". This is an awesome training tool. How it works: WHen you notice the dog is not paying attention or starts to drag you grab the end of the leash (6ft works well), you turn the opposite way (don't watch the dog or wait for him to catch up) walk tall and eyes ahead, when the dog hits the opposite end of the leash between him and you it will effectively jerk him around and he will be scrambling to catch up with you. You may for the first few sessions look and feel like you are just walking back and for around the yard but it won't take long and he will get it. I cannot remember a time when this has not worked. You may have to remind him occasionally but he will get it.

Labradoodles and Goldendoodles are not stupid or un-trainable. They are actually very smart dogs and will learn to take advantage at any time if allowed. They are not crazy or wild, any dog can seem that way. Keep in mind this is a young large dog who does require exercise, mental stimulation and socialization. Running in the backyard is not enough, they are just too smart and get bored easily. Get some basic obedience down and then start taking your dog new places he will be a better dog for it.

Hopefully this helps you with him but make sure everybody in the home is on board with his training or you will have a good dog for you but no one else. And of course if you can get him in an obedience class, I teach basic obedience as well as put my own dogs through a separate class not taught by me (so they have my full attention during training) and I swear by it. Another thing that is really fun after basic obedience is done is agility training, your dog sounds like a perfect candidate for it. Its fun for you and the dog and a great way to relieve stress and bond with your dog. My JRT, GSD, Aussie and Chi mix have all done agility and they love it!

Good luck with him, he sounds like he has a TON of potential just waiting to be discovered
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the key problem with the kneeing and even the sit (especially with a butt push) is that the dog is being rewarded with physical interaction. Many dogs do not care if you wallop them with a 2x4 as long as you are paying attention.
Dogs get perfectly wise to a slip collar too. The GL is less likely to cause harm, requires less strength on the owners part. The trick is to create a dog who has no desire to jump up, not through avoidance, but because he has nno desire to in the first place. As noted in the scanned page previously (thx OB), there is a thing called extinction. There is also a thing called an extinction burst. This when the behavior will increase in an attempt to get the desired response. It will peak, and then it drops sharply to nil. In this case, what would happen is if everyone turned away from the dog as his paws left the ground, he would at first jump more, maybe paw at your back. If you hold out till he stops, then pet him, he will learn what the proper bbehavior is. If you give in after 30 seconds, he will now pester you at least that long next time. It really does work, and they learn to behave appropriately without needing to be told sit.
 
Thank You everyone!
I will get back on later, I have a bad Migraine right now
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Again Thank You for all the suggestions!
 
Get a squirt bottle with water in it, it has worked on all my dogs but one. With a lab he might like it, but mine only has to see the bottle and they stop whatever they are doing. I never could do the kick them in the chest thing I wouldn't want to hurt them, I'm really soft. But I'm constant with everything I do with them.
Good luck with him and thank you for caring!!
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chickens? not yet :

Get a squirt bottle with water in it, it has worked on all my dogs but one. With a lab he might like it, but mine only has to see the bottle and they stop whatever they are doing. I never could do the kick them in the chest thing I wouldn't want to hurt them, I'm really soft. But I'm constant with everything I do with them.
Good luck with him and thank you for caring!!
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and I have very hyper LARGE dogs as well.
To stop the jumping thing we taught them that they could only put a paw on a person if the forearm was presented and tapped. We did this with simply taking a step backward when they went to jump up and saying down. It takes time and consistency to train smart dogs. As soon as they sat we said a soft good boy and gave them a pat.
As to the dragging on the leash.... We use body harnesses and they work wonders on all of ours. I have had dogs that would not tolerate a head harness and would drag you to your knees on a collar leash. Put the body harness on one with a bad pulling issue and WOW night and day difference.
I would make sure and have him wormed in case he has parasites causing the thinness.
The food issue... try mixing his food with chicken broth and heating it up a few seconds in the microwave to make it smell better. When he gets hungry enough he will eat. I am sure it is frustrating and saddening to see him so thin and refusing to eat. Be patient.​
 
A raw egg or two mixed in with the dogs food will help him put on weight with all the protein in it. It may also make him more inclined to eat and will put a lovely shine on his coat. If possible scoop his food with your hands to get your scent on it. Always make sure it's your decision to do things, to assert your dominance.

With my Border Collie, Tallulah, the way I got her to stop pulling on the lead was time consuming to start with but she quickly learned what I wanted her to do. I tired her out by swimming her in a loch before I tried any walking so that I had more energy than her. All I had to do was stand at the edge or as deep as my boots would allow, hold her lead and throw a float for her to fetch. When sufficiently exercised I would only walk when she was at heel position. She soon learned that if she wanted to go anywhere she had to be by my side. To start with it helps if his collar is as close to his head as it can go.

To stop Tallulah from jumping up I held my hand out just above her head and made NO EYE CONTACT. If she was overly persistent I would step into her space as she jumped to knock her off balance so she would have to put her feet to the floor again. When she figured out that she couldn't get up and wasn't getting attention (eye contact) she would sit. At this point I would wait a few seconds before praising her with a look, quiet word and stroke, not too much to excite her again.

The basic principle of training any animal is: Good receives attention, bad gets ignored.
 
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I've never understood the body harness as a cure for pulling. With any working harness dog ie. Husky, they use a body harness type thing so the dog can get their full power into the pull. Certainly that's what I found when lead training my brothers dog for him. I stick with a nice thick collar so it doesn't dig in the neck much. Also if you have to give a correction tug, pull side ways not back, up or down.



Forgot to mention in my last post that when starting the heel walking technique you will almost definately have to guide the dog to the correct position the first few times. Notice I said guide, not pull.

Also only let the dog have his bowl for 5 minutes at a time, every 35-45 minutes until the food is gone. When he sees the food taken away he'll feel like he's missed his chance of an easy meal. He'll be more inclined to eat more next time because he's not entirely sure when it'll be put out for him again.
 
the body harness is made differently than a regular harness. It puts pressure on the dog in an uncomfortable way when they pull. Unfortunately, it also makes sores and problems for many dogs, even when used correctly. It is because it makes a constant pressure behind the legs, resulting in fabric burns. If you do get one, make sure that it has lots of padding and keep a close eye on every place it comes into contact with the dog.

The smae goes for the halti. Be sure that you have it fitted correctly or it won't work. It will slide off the face or ride up into the dogs eyes. I've seen dogs get their feet tangled up in the nose strap because it wasn't fitted correctly. Also, be sure to not jerk on the halti when the dog is pulling or you can cause neck injuries. I think that is less likely with a labradoodle than a small dog though.
 
Please go to the Kikopup channel at YouTube to learn how to positively train your dog. I disagree with physical contact to train dogs. Once you begin the journey of rewarding your dog for what it does right instead of correcting it, it really builds on itself.

Get a clicker. Study at Kikopup's channel. Read on the internet about clicker training and how it works. Learn how to STOP saying NO to your dog and start saying YES.

The other advice I would give you is:

LIFE STRUCTURE

If you are not doing so, get a crate and use it. Use it for meal times, nap times, and sleeping time at night. My little puppies learn their first lessons in self control when they learn about waiting inside the crate until I invite them to come out. I teach this by well timed door closings. Yep, most of them do get a nose bump or two when they are learning this.

Give this dog a firm and reliable schedule of wakeup time, meal times, outside times, play times, exercise periods, and going to bed times.

EXERCISE

I would bet this dog needs a LOT more exercise than he is getting. If this were my dog, he would be falling down stepping on his tongue tired twice a day every day.

And finally, I don't do much teaching dogs not to pull on the lead because I NEVER let them get started doing it. It takes TWO PARTNERS for a dog to be able to pull. One of the very hardest things for people to learn is to NOT hold a tight lead on their dog. The dog will never learn to stop pulling unless YOU learn to stop pulling back.

To teach dogs not to pull I start with a full treat bag attached to my right hip. I use a chain or nylon slip collar and a leather leash. I generally use a 30" leash for training. I start with the dog sitting at my left side with a LOOSE LEASH. Once we start off, each time the dog gets ahead of me, I pull them back into position with a smooth but quick motion, and immediately drop slack in the lead, and treat right at my left side. I treat as much and as often as possible with the dog right at my left side. The rule is that your wrist must be touching your body in order to give the dog a treat. This keeps you from treating the dog out of position, or reaching out to him to give a treat.

Also practice standing still with a LOOSE LEASH. Same deal. If the dog moves away and gives a tight lead, pull him back to you with a smooth but quick motion, and immediately drop slack back into the leash and treat.

I agree that you need a class so that you can learn the technique needed to be successful with your dog, and for the encouragement that an instructor can give you.
 
Thank You everyone!


As far as food goes

Peanut butter = Fail
He takes the food soaks it in his mouth to get as much of it of the peanut butter off as he can and than drops the food on the floor
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Chicken Broth = Fail

He just licks up the chicken broth in the bowl.


Raw egg= Fail

Won't touch the stuff
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We have tried mushing his food up but he will not eat it that way either. Yeasterday he only ate a cup of food, that was it. He has not put any weight on since we got him and I really don't know what else to try. We have gotten him wet food which he will eat, but again only a can a day. If I only leave the food out for a little bit and then pick it up, he will never eat.


As far as walking goes

They used a chain collar on him when they had him. I have one and tried it on him ( as it has been very helpful with training other dogs in the past ) he just keeps pulling, if I let him he would keep going till he choked himself. I think they also tried one of those collars that are metal and have the spikes going towards the neck?? Can't remember what thay are called. Also I do not keep tention on the leash when walking him. What is the difference between the Gentle leader and the Halti?
Redyre Rotties, how long of a walk would you suggest?


He does have a crate that he came with that he sleeps in at night.
I will try to post some pictures of him an a little bit.


I will try the water bottle! He still has all the bad puppy habbits. He jumps, pulls, bites on your hands ( play bite not aggressive ), begs for people food, and much more
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The women got him from a breeder but works nights and sleeps all day. This poor boy was in him crate most of all his life. Which I can't even begin to understand. You get a dog to let him sit in a crate his whole life!!
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He has gotten better, no one else seems to see it yet but I can. It is going to take time and we knew that going in so we just have to stick with it
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My main worry right now is that he is not eating enough
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He seems to hate everything! We still haven't given him any treat or people food. Just dog food but everything we try he doesn't like.
 
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